Inspired by Greywolf's thread on the positives gained from installing a MOSFET voltage regulator/rectifier (R/R) found here
I ordered one from Jack at roadstercycle.com and installed it today. While many people have done this mod, I figured I'd give a how-to for those on the fence about accomplishing this task. It really wasn't bad, figure maybe 2 hours.
NOTE: This is on a 2005 DL1000 (DL650 R/R is in a different location) and uses the Shindegen FH012AA MOSFET R/R complete kit, which includes connectors, wiring, and fuse holder, as found on roadster cycle's webpage: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm
Step 1 - assemble all of the materials and tools. The pic below shows what comes in the kit and the tools needed to install. As you'll see, the stock R/R has the stator wires and voltage wires all going into the side; the MOSFET has a plug for the stator wires and a separate plug for the voltage going straight to the battery.
Step 2 - the R/R is located on the left side, under the rear fairing. Pop off the boomerang fairing that goes from the rear fairing to the fuel tank fairing by removing the one bolt at the forward edge of the boomerang and pulling the fairing off. The rear fairing has a screw at the leading edge (shown with the screwdriver on it) and a bolt at the luggage rack forward attachment (shown with the T-handle hex on it), and a push rivet on the underside. Once all fasteners are removed (you will have to loosen the right side luggage rack bolt also), you can slide the rear fairing out forward.
Step 3 - The pic below shows the stock R/R. There are two connectors that come out of it; one is black with 3 black wires - these are the stator wires. The other is white with 4 wires that go out to the electrical system. Disconnect the white one and tape up the remaining bike-side connector; you won't be using those wires. On the black connector, you'll cut the 3 black stator wires and adding spade connectors as described later.
Step 4 - This next pic is of the stock bracket used to hold the stock R/R. I wanted to reuse it but the orientation of the mounting holes for the new R/R are 90 degrees off. So this goes in the "scrap but never throw away" bin.
Step 5 - This pic shows the wiring on the stock regulator. The stator wires are the black ones; the 2nd, 4th, and 6th wires. These are the ones that will be cut for installing spade ends in the new R/R's plug.
Step 6 - With the 3 stator wires cut, it's time to install the spade ends. As a note, all of the terminal ends that come with the new R/R are sized for 10-gauge wire. Since the stator wires are 14 or 16, the instructions recommend that you strip twice the normal length of insulation and double it back before crimping. Additionally, they recommend soldering all terminals as well. So here is a stator wire stripped twice the normal length.
Step 7 - Here is the wire doubled back prior to crimping.
Step 8 - Crimping the terminal end. Notice that the blue sealing collars for the plug are installed BEFORE crimping and soldering!
Step 9 - After crimping and soldering all 3 stator wires, I mounted the R/R as a dry fit to check clearances. Since I couldn't re-use the bracket from the original R/R, I added some rubber grommets to provide some degree of vibration minimization for the new R/R. You can see where the new mounting bolts will go on the bracket.
Step 10 - The new R/R is loosely mounted and shows no interference. Here you can see the stator wire plug installed; the 3 wires go to the black connector referenced before. You can also see the now-unused white connector from the old R/R...tape that up and stow out of the way. Also notice that the other connector on the new R/R is clearly marked with a RED dot for the positive wire to the battery, and a GREEN dot for the negative wire to the battery.
Step 11 - Now it's time to fabricate the battery wires. The kit comes with a 30-amp fuse holder that has about 4 inches of 8 gauge; this has to be spliced to the 10 gauge wire that also comes with the kit. This uses a bare (uninsulated) barrel connector and is covered with heat-shrink tubing.
Here we see the crimped splice before heat-shrink is applied.
Step 12 - I went overboard with the heat-shrink on the positive wire; if some is good, more is better!
Step 13 - After the positive and negative wires have had the terminal ends installed and locked into the R/R connector, I mounted the R/R to confirm no interference with frame.
Step 14 - Just to the left of the new R/R you can see the 30-amp fuse holder that I tie-wrapped to the subframe. See it there between the two white tie-wraps? This location lets me access the fuse without having to remove the rear fairing.
Step 15 - The rear fairing is now installed and you can see the access to the fuse holder. Also, the positive and negative wires have been connected to the battery.
That's the end of the pics. After I double-checked the wire routing and clearances, I fired up the bike to see what kind of explosion would occur.
After 5 minutes and no explosions, I checked the voltage at the battery's positive and negative terminals with a digital multimeter. At idle, I was reading 14.2 volts, which is notable...the advantage of a MOSFET is higher voltage at low RPM's.
This is my first how-to and I don't know if it makes sense (does to me since I did it and wrote it!), so if you have any comments or questions please feel free to PM me and I'll try to clarify.
One last note: As mentioned, the instructions recommend crimping AND soldering the new wire terminal ends. I was using a Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun. It worked OK on the stator wire connections, but didn't do squat for the large 10 gauge positive and negative wires connections; just not enough heat. Since I knew they had a good mechanical crimp, I didn't worry about it.
Thanks for reading...Don