If you're looking to change your brake pads, but aren't sure what's involved- look no further. This is a pad replacement on an '02 DL1000, which has 20,000 miles and probably the original pads.
Old pad/New pad
If you are removing the front wheel to replace tires or for some other reason, it is a good idea to check the condition of your pads. Think about timing your wheel removal for the same time as your brake pads, since it requires removing the calipers to get the wheel off anyway.
Tools you will need:
needlenose pliers or small screwdriver
First, remove these two bolts that hold the caliper on:
Don't let the caliper hang by the hose for any length of time:
turn the freed caliper over in your hand and look for the small cotter pin. You'll need a small screwdriver or needlenose pliers to remove this pin:
Once the cotter pin is out, it is possible to remove the pin that holds in the pads. It should slide out easily:
Once the pin is out, it is easy to unhook the pads from the pin that keeps them in the caliper.
At this point, you'll want to remove the master cylinder cover and cap, and place a rag or absorbant something over the opening. Use your C-clamp againt the old pad to gently and evenly push the pistons back into the caliper. This gives enough room for the new, thicker pads to slide over the rotor when its time to re-install.
Here's the time to slow down a bit. The back of the old pads had a metal shim. Remove this shim and place it onto the back of the new pad. I like to put a bit of Disk Brake Grease between the pad and shim, and where the shim meets the pistons:
Now just rest the pads inside the caliper, they can only go in one way, and slide the pin back in. I like to put a tiny bit of grease on this pin, as well.
Rotate the pin so you can find the hols the cotter pin goes thru, the cotter pin can only go in one way, too.
Now just slide the caliper over the rotor, and bolt back to the fork. The book recommends about 28 ft lbs on the caliper mounting bolts.