HHHHEEELLLPPP Replacing Connector Inlet Hose - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-28-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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HHHHEEELLLPPP Replacing Connector Inlet Hose

2009 DL1000. The front cylinder connector hose split. part number 6 in the cooling diagrams, it's the small maybe 2 inch long hose that goes from the thermostat assembly to the front cylinder. Was able to reach in from the left side and remove the split hose but am not able to install the new hose, there just isn't enough room to work with because of my big hands.

Short of removing the rear throttle assembly, anyone have any ideas? I thought of putting an ad in the local paper to find a mechanically inclined 6 year old with small hands, but thought I'd ask here first.

My last resort is to trailer it to the stealership and have them do it.

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post #2 of 25 Old 05-31-2017, 06:16 PM
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You go in from the top.

Remove the tupperware, tank and airbox, then loosen the clamps holding the throttle bodies to the rubber intake boots. Pop both the throttle bodies loose as an assembly. I believe you'll also need to disconnect the electrical plugs feeding the injectors and the throttle position sensors (it'll be fairly obvious).

Lay the throttle bodies off to one side (no need to undo the throttle cables or disassemble anything further) then you'll have easy access to the hoses from the top.

It's a lot easier than it sounds, to be honest.


Personally, I'd also replace all the hoses while you're in there (if one fails, the others aren't far behind) and DEFINITELY replace the o-rings on the metal fittings where the hoses attach to the cylinders -- these are also well-known to deteriorate.
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post #3 of 25 Old 03-01-2019, 01:11 AM
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2007 DL1000, a few days ago bike started to drop coolant. Then it started to drop more and bike started to overheat. Based on another post I started checking the fan and the radiator fan switch. The fan does work when I short it but it didn't come on when bike showed 4 bars (it never showed 4 bars before this problem). I took it away and put it in boiling water and multimeter showed that it didn't open the circuit, so I think that switch just died and maybe that caused the fan not to start and thus the bike overheated and dropped all the coolant. Maybe then something happened to the hose or the union.

I was wondering if Axeman was able to change that hose?. Mine is leaking coolant. Hose looks fine, I replaced the clamp that secures it to the union with a bigger one and tightened it strong but after filling the radiator the leak started again.

Do you guys recommend to change both the hose and the union where it plugs in? How difficult is that?

I was able to move the throttle body a little bit away as bwringer suggested, but all I was able to try was to change that clamp hoping that would hold the leak but it didn't.

I also tried to remove the screws that hold the rubber intake boot hoping to have more room to work but I was just unable to remove them, in fact I was closer to strip them than to remove them I think.

What would you suggest?
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post #4 of 25 Old 03-01-2019, 03:32 PM
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Your leak is probably the union O-ring rather than the hose itself.

It's not a mechanically challenging job, just time consuming getting at it.

Follow bwringer's advice above. Remove the TB's and hang them from their cables over the side of the bike and you'll have lots of room to work (You'll need to loosen the TB boot clamps but no need to remove them. If the screws are stuck, spray the threads with penetrating lubricant. I can't remember if they are just screws or if you can use a socket on them). Change out the hoses, O-rings, and perhaps the unions themselves, though mine weren't bad. They're not expensive.

You might want to test the thermostat as well as that could be part of your overheating problem. I'm not sure if there's a sacrificial gasket in there or not but, if so, you'll want one of those on hand.

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Last edited by larolco; 03-01-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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post #5 of 25 Old 03-01-2019, 11:41 PM
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Many thanks @larolco for the input. Tomorrow I'll try it again based on your suggestions. I will try to remove the hose and the union. Is there a way to inspect the o-ring? It's not that I don't want to change it, in fact I've already ordered the parts from partzilla (it was around $50 for the hose, clamps, union, o-ring and screw), but they will take a while to get here. So I was wondering if there's a momentary hack or anything to keep riding until parts arrive.
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post #6 of 25 Old 03-03-2019, 12:41 PM
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You have to remove the unions to see the O-rings. Guaranteed they will fall apart if they haven't already. They will be mush and likely the source of your leak.

I think you're parked in the meantime.

It's also a good time to check your valve clearances if that hasn't been done.

You'll also need to synchronize the throttle bodies after reassembly.

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post #7 of 25 Old 03-03-2019, 06:15 PM
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@larolco was exactly right. I took apart the hose and the union (thanks to @bwringer for the detailed info), when I removed the union, I was able to see the O-ring, or what was left of it. In fact, there was almost no O-ring at all, just pieces. I tried to take them out carefully but I think some pieces made it in, I was thinking to flush the system with distilled water to try to get as much out as possible. So now I’m looking for the O-ring at the local stores and hopefully I find it. I read somewhere that it was important to use an original one since they are specially built to last the high temps. I guess that’s kind of correct since mine was probably there since forever.

Now with the final thoughts: my theory is that maybe the fan switch broke down (I took it out and tested it in boiling water and a multimeter but the circuit did not close), that caused the fan not to start and the bike to overheat and finally destroyed what was left of the O-ring causing the leak. Does that sounds possible?

Finally, could anybody point me in the right direction for that “valve clearances” thing? Is that the thermostat clearance? And also the “synchronize the throttle bodies after reassembly”??? I didn’t disconnect anything on the TB.

Last edited by luisjose5; 03-04-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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post #8 of 25 Old 03-03-2019, 07:30 PM
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On my 650 I removed the throttle bodys 4 times in 122K and the synchronizing never changed.

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post #9 of 25 Old 03-03-2019, 09:53 PM
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That is actually really good to hear, or read I hope mine does not require any more tuning as well.

Last edited by luisjose5; 03-04-2019 at 09:53 AM.
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post #10 of 25 Old 03-04-2019, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luisjose5 View Post
Finally, could anybody point me in the right direction for that “valve clearances” thing?
It's nothing related to your leak, but if your bike is off the road while you're waiting for parts, it's a good time to do it:

https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.ph...c,10845.0.html
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