Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Langley, BC, Canada
Next comes the wiring, which for me, was the intimidating part. I am no electrician. When you pull that cruise unit out of the box and see all that wire, be assured, you’re not going to use it all, and it’s not that difficult to figure out, especially if you use the schematic supplied in the manual. If you look carefully, they even print on the wires what each is for. At this point, I would recommend reading the manual thoroughly so you know the principle behind what you’re about to do. I would also recommend throwing away all the quick connectors supplied in the kit. Instead, solder all the connections and use shrink wrap and electrical tape. I used two of those quick connects and neither of them worked well. I ended up removing them and soldering instead. I also cut off the harness connectors, which are really only there to help you feed wire through a car’s firewall.
You have to locate a few wires on the bike so you can tap into them.
The first is the brake circuit, hot and cold. The red wire off of the main cruise unit (with 4-amp inline fuse) connects to the orange wire you will find paired with a black-with-white-stripe wire in a connector just in front of the battery. The violet wire from the main cruise unit connects to the black and white wire in the same connector. This circuit tells the system if you have activated a brake, which will cancel the cruise.
Next is the blue tachometer wire in the main cruise unit. It connects to a brown wire with a black stripe which you can find on the left side of the bike in the huge connector between the chassis and the headlamp/dash assembly. It’s the one with the big rubbery plastic cover over it. This circuit tells the cruise if the bike is over-revving (you can set the limit with the dipswitches), if you have pulled in the clutch for example, and cancels the cruise.
Then comes the vehicle speed sensor. The grey wire from the main cruise unit connects to pink-with-white-stripe wire in the same big connector as the tach wire. This circuit tells the system how fast the bike is travelling so it knows to give it more or less throttle to maintain speed.
The grounding is straightforward. If it’s black, it goes to the negative battery post. Do not ground to the frame; bad things will happen.
The power supply wire colours are different with the Rostra than they are with the Audiovox. DO NOT follow Roy Bertalotto’s Audiovox wiring for this circuit. On the Audiovox it is the Orange wire from the cruise unit and the grey wire from the switch. However, on the Rostra, connect the BROWN wire from the cruise unit (with 10-amp inline fuse) and the WHITE wire from the switch to a switched 12V source. I used the headlight circuit, which is the yellow and white wire found in the big yellow connector behind the radiator. (Initially, I had used the black and blue wire from the headlight socket, but on my first night ride, I found that turning on the high beams killed the power. Oddly, the flash to pass switch didn't kill it, which was how I tested it when I was wiring.)
For the particular switch I am using, which has two LEDs showing power and engagement, you must connect the pink switch wire to something. The little piece of paper that comes with the switch tells you to connect it to the pink wire from the main cruise unit, BUT THERE IS NO PINK WIRE TO BE FOUND ON THE CRUISE UNIT. As best as I can tell, the wire you want is orange and is buried way back near the main box. You might have to cut open the tape to find it. However, my engagement light is not working, though the “power on” light is. A small annoyance yet to be rectified. Ideas??
The yellow wire from the switch goes to the yellow wire from the main unit (resume/accel).
The dark green wire from the switch goes to the dark green wire from the main unit (set/coast).
The brown wire from the switch goes to the red/brown wire from the main unit (brake positive).
The red wire from the switch goes to the 4 amp fused wire attached to the bike’s orange brake wire (see brake circuit wiring above).
Wires not needed:
The blue and grey wires from the switch you can ignore. They are not needed.
From the main unit, you can ignore the light green wire, which is for a neutral safety switch. Unless you have an automatic transmission, this circuit is redundant.
There is also a connector with a black and a light blue wire which is not used for the type of switch employed here.
And there is a grey and black wire paired together that are not used here. They are for vehicles that do not have a digital speed display and require an additional magnet system to generate a digital speed signal.
Now for the dipswitches, which are found under the rubber grommet on the main cruise unit. There are 12 of them and the manual explains what they are for. Here’s how I set mine:
2 Off Gain is set to extra low (wild ride on High - try it for fun)
6 On Pulses/Kilometre set to 6000 - sets the RPM at which the cruise cancels
9 Off Engine/Setup Timer - didn’t notice much difference here - set to 4-cylinder low
10 On VSS source - Square wave input
11 Off Transmission - Manual
12 Off Control Switch - Open circuit
I suspect how much slack you have built into the cruise cable will affect the gain setting, since it has to pull a bit to take up the slack. I have quite a bit of slack built into mine after some initial throttle problems. Next time I have the bike apart, I might take a little bit of slack out, or step the gain back up. Right now, it takes a couple of seconds for the cruise to engage after I let off the throttle.
Before you fire the bike up, use the test procedure outlined in the manual. It works really well. There is an indicator LED in there; it’s just hard to see until it lights up.
Good luck. And if you screw this up, it’s not my fault.
DL1000K6 Two wheels good; four wheels bad.
Last edited by larolco; 08-26-2008 at 10:05 PM.