DL1000/650 Fuel Tank Removal - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 55 Old 07-01-2008, 12:42 PM
MightyShep
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DL1000/650 Fuel Tank Removal

Tools Required:
4mm Hex wrench or socket
(2) 10mm combo wrenches or (1) 10mm wrench and (1) 10mm socket
“ or 3/8” drive ratchet and sockets
Phillips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
(obligatory six pack joke)
This is a rather straight forward procedure that anyone can accomplish. First off, plan ahead! Wait until you are nearly out of fuel. Nothing worse than pulling a tank with 6 gallons of gas in it. For expediency I’ll present this without completely removing the side panels. First step is to remove all the button heads that are in the way. There are (at minimum) 4 bolts that you need to remove, and two of the plastic rivets.





Once you have removed the two rivets and two button head bolts you can remove the small plastic piece that covers the gas tank bolt.
This bolt is where you’ll need both the 10mm wrenches. A ratchet on one end works okay, but for me I’ve found that the two wrenches goes a little bit quicker.
Remove the nut and pull the bolt out. You may need to lift up a little on the tank thereby relieving any pressure the tank may be applying to the bolt.







Once you have the front bolt out remove the 12mm bolt at the back of the tank.



Now there are two things to disconnect on the left side of the bike, and two to disconnect on the right side of the bike.

Left side first.

Disconnect the fuel pump power leads, and the fuel line itself.





The fuel line has a clip that holds it in place. If you are good enough you can squeeze these between your thumb and forefinger to release the hose. Otherwise you can get a pair of needle nose pliers.



Right side,
There’s a vacuum line for the PAIR system and the fuel overflow drain from the fill ring. Work the hoses off of their nipples.





That’s it. You can now remove the tank. If you didn’t remove the side panels completely, just use some caution when removing and reinstalling the tank. The tank will slide right into position with a little persuasion just watch the top corners of the two side panels. Make sure that they don’t go under the tank bracket.

Last edited by Big B; 03-14-2010 at 03:32 PM.
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post #2 of 55 Old 07-01-2008, 01:24 PM
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Thanks very much for that! Looks like topping off my coolant tank will be easier than I thought!

DL650AK8 - Flat Black Club, no. 79

'82 XJ650 Seca - still runnin'
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post #3 of 55 Old 07-20-2008, 09:51 AM
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Shep,

Great post! With having you and Greywolf, who needs to pay a mechanic anymore!!


Thanx!!

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post #4 of 55 Old 07-20-2008, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumpy View Post
Thanks very much for that! Looks like topping off my coolant tank will be easier than I thought!
Or just use an ATF funnel.
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post #5 of 55 Old 07-20-2008, 07:55 PM
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Talking Excellant Post!

Thank you very much for taking all the time and effort to post a GREAT 'How-Too'!:thumbsup:
I bet this will save me an hour 'Shop-Time', when I have the Tank removed, for valve inspection and T.B. sync!
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post #6 of 55 Old 09-22-2008, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyShep View Post
Right side,
There’s a vacuum line for the PAIR system and the fuel overflow drain from the fill ring. Work the hoses off of their nipples.
Just a note the 650 only has 3 things to disconnect (at least from 04-06):

(from the manual)

FUEL TANK REMOVAL
Lift and support the fuel tank. (-5-7)

Disconnect the fuel pump lead wire coupler 1.
Place a rag under the fuel feed hose and disconnect the fuel
feed hose 2. from the fuel tank.
Disconnect the fuel tank drain hose 3.

K6 DL650
madstad, sw crash bars, OEM centerstand, sonic fork springs, racetech emulators, KB fork brace, ELKA shock 3-way w remote preload, caribou case panniers, krauser K5 topcase, blueseas fuse box, pro taper SE atv mid, cycra-probends, OEM heated grips, SW 1" bar risers, RichlandRick's dash shelf, cigar socket, powerlet socket, dual heat-troller, electric connections led voltmeter, eastern beavers headlight cut off/brakelight relay lead, garmin gpsmap 60 cx,
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Last edited by bry_wang; 09-22-2008 at 06:06 PM.
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post #7 of 55 Old 10-19-2008, 05:10 PM
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Thank you, Mighty Shep for the simple, clear instructions. I now have a brand new air cleaner element!
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post #8 of 55 Old 11-25-2008, 09:01 PM
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Thanks for the great post, pictures add the greatest advantage!

Clem
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post #9 of 55 Old 12-31-2008, 05:38 PM
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Shep and All,
Firstly, please add my appreciation for the invaluable shared info. Secondly, a couple of questions please. #1...for TB synch, the factory manual says to remove tank, remove air cleaner box, reinstall tank. It later warns about allowing dirt to enter TBs while the air cleaner box is off. Do you guys remove the air cleaner box and if so, why is this necessary. #2... just roughly what should the vacuum level be at 1300 rpm or so?

Again, thanks much for the info.

Respectfully,

Bill T.

Any day on a motorcycle is better than any other day.
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post #10 of 55 Old 12-31-2008, 06:22 PM
 
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Great post! Pictures are worth thousands of words.
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