Last week I posted about stripping out the allen head, on one of the engine bracket bolts, while attaching a set of Hepco Becker engine guards. The right side was no problem. I stripped the head of the forward most bolt on the left side.
Here's a link to the original thread
The good news ------ I got the bolt out, and everything is fine. Here are some ideas on what to do.
First use a couple of scissors jacks to brace the engine; front, and back. A very good mechanic friend of mine pointed out that the last bolt might have had extra weight from the engine binding it in place. Hepco Becker only warns to do one side at a time. The couple of extra minutes it takes to secure the engine is worth eliminating one potential problem.
Second, use a torque wrench to loosen the bolts. Make sure you seat the allen head well. Hold the wrench in as you apply force, and watch the torque, as you try to loosen the bolt. If the torque exceeds 40 to 45 Ft Lbs and the bolt does not release. Stop, you probably have a bolt that is impacted with Locktight. If you haven't stripped the allen head at this point, good
. You are much better off than I was. Skip to the Heat The Bolt
section below. --- If you have stripped the allen head :sad:, don't panic! Read the next section.
STRIPPED ALLEN HEAD
OK, you've just stripped an allen head on your brand new v-Strom, and you are sitting there feeling like the world has come to an end. Buck up it hasn't. First, DON'T USE ANY OF THE FANCY BOLT EXTRACTION TOOLS. Many of them are fine tools, but they don't address the key problem. The bold is impacted with glue. The bolt extractors will only break, and leave you worse off than before. (I broke two of them.) So first get a Dremel, or similar tool, and cut a slot for a wide blade screw driver. Next get the biggest, beefiest, wide blade screw driver you can find. Make sure it has a square shaft. Check it in the slot and make sure you have good engagement with the bolt, but don't try to turn the bolt yet. You have to heat the bolt and melt the glue first.
HEAT THE BOLT
Heating the bolt can have complications. You should use what you are comfortable with. I used a propane torch to heat the head of the bolt. It worked fine, and there was no damage to any part on my bike. Remember you have to get the bolt hot, not just warm. Now there has been a lot of debate, on the board, on whether to extract the bolt while it is hot or let it cool first. Here is my experience. I tried letting the bolt cool and then extracting it, it didn't work. I heated the bolt a second time and twisted it while hot. It came out!
My theory is that if you let the bolt cool, the glue just re-hardens and you are back to where you started.
So heat the bolt. If the head is intact, insert you allen head ratchet and turn carefully. If you are using a screw driver, you will need a friend to assist. One person holds the screw driver firmly in the slot. The second person uses two wrenches on the shaft of the screw driver to twist the bolt off. In either case work slowly. If the bolt does not come out with reasonable force heat it more. It should come out. If it does not, take it to your dealer or a qualified machine shop.
After extracting the bolts, I found the bolt holes had a lot of junk in them. This was true of all the holes, not just the one that had a problem. Have the correct size tap, and some 3 in 1 oil ready to run through the holes. Check each bolt hole with a clean bolt. If it goes in smoothly, great. If it binds, don't force it. Use the tap and good thread cutting technique to clean the bolt hole out. Check the bolt holes again. If everything is clean, assemble your crash-bars per the manufactures instructions. All done, great!!! but don't have the celebration beer just yet. First get on your bike and go for a nice ride, then come home and have that beer.
Hope you find this helpful