50,000k's, the gearbox is starting to clunk going from neutral into 1st, and oh , go to adjust the clutch freeplay and no more turns left on the adjuster.
First, don't panic, there are some turns left on the perch adjuster which will save the day.
Next, do what every smart Stromtrooper does, email Greywolf and ask how do I adjust this thing ?.
Get a reply, that's easy, except, the adjuster is now on the end of the clutch, INSIDE the engine, so order a new gasket and put it on the todo list for the 54,000k's oil change.
So, finally time, drain the oil, change the filter, replace the drain plug and fit the new filter.
Have a bucket standing by and undo the lower drain bolt on the water pump, watch the water dribble, out, undo the radiator cap and hastily move the bucket back two feet. (sigh).
Next, remove the hoses to the water pump, all but one are spring clips, I found a pair of right-angle pliers magic here.
Undo all the bolts, INCLUDING the three on the water pump. For those into bling, m6x30 and the three water pump bolts are m6x70. I replaced mine with stainless steel cap screws on reassembly. Undo the footpeg/brake mount and tie it back out of the way.
Next, very GENTLY pry the cases apart, I tapped it with a plastic mallet, there are some tabs for prying, but BE GENTLE and DO NOT lever on the water pump. The b******* cases will come apart eventually.
Note: Provided you don't provoke it, the water pump will stay in one piece and you won't need a new water pump gasket.
Stare the the remains of gasket stuck to each side of the cases and curse some. This was the bit that took the most time (2 hours !!!! ) until I remembered I had one of those tools made of unobtainium in the kitchen, a gasket knife. Took five minutes to get the gasket remains off then.
Note: Gasket knives are sold under false pretenses, supermarkets around here hide them next to the kiwifruit. Lovely hard plastic, serrated edges and won't cut aluminium but hard and sharp enough to rip stuck pieces of gasket off engine cases - perfect.
Slacken off the clutch cable and perch adjusters, undo the locknut in the centre of the clutch, wind the screw in until it touches, back off one turn, lock it back down.
That's a bit tricky, I had a couple of fingers around the spanner on the inner part of the adjuster, my thumb on the end of the screw to stop it rotating and nipped it up with the other hand. Someone else holding the screw still would be easier.
Readjust the freeplay on the clutch cable at this point.
There are a couple of spigots in the side cases for location. Pick them up off the floor
, or pull them out of the external half of the side case and put them back into the engine side.
Tip: If you THINLY coat the gasket with copper anti-seize it'll still seal perfectly, but won't bed into the cases next time. That's just a tip, not essential. And by thin, I mean thin, the gasket should just be a different color with no obvious grease on it.
Place the gasket onto the engine side, the spigots will hold it in place, quick eye check to make sure it's in place all around, then slide the side case back into place, keeping it very flat. Note that you have to get the oil/water pump gear to mesh, just wiggle the water pump a little as you push on the side case and everything should just pop into place.
Check that the case is seated all around, start putting screws in. If there's ANY resistance, stop because you'll be trying to push a bolt through the gasket which has slipped out of place
Run all the screws in, then start tightening, zigzag side to side. Don't torque them at this point, just until they bottom, then go around again, just nipping them up. I do this by feel, but if you feel brave, use a torque wrench.
Reinstall the footpeg/brake mount.
Reinstall the hoses, making the traditional offering of blood to the Gods, order is important here, that big one that runs through the engine has to go back on before the little hose above it.
Refill the radiator, put the cap on, lean the bike over as far left and right as you can, giving it a good shake each time, take the cap back off and put that last 200ml of fluid in. Cap back on.
Refill with oil. Start the engine, let it run 30 seconds, go have a coffee, then come back and put that last 300ml of oil in. (I changed the filter, which doesn't refill without running the engine for a few seconds).
Clean up and go for a test ride, clunk neutral to first has gone and the bike shifts nicely.
I think if I did this again, I'd drop in fresh friction plates and springs anyway at this point. As far as I could tell the plates had used < 1/3 of the material and I'd definitely have to do the plates plates/springs next time as I'd be out of adjuster. It's not essential on this one, but all the effort is getting in there, changing the plates and springs is cheap and trivially easy in comparison.
Thanks Greywolf, wouldn't have been possible without your help.