DL1000 How to adjust the Secondary Throttle Plates - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 51 Old 01-18-2008, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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DL1000 How to adjust the Secondary Throttle Plates

Adjusting the STV (secondary throttle valve) has shown to make a difference in the RPM range from just above 1500 to just below 4000. The engine runs smoother and seems to have better response. Also some have reported better fuel mileage and a linier throttle response.

There are two different methods for synchronizing the secondary throttle valves. These procedures will work for both the 1000 and 650 models. Please note that the 650 adjusts from the rear throttle body and the 1000 from the front throttle body.

To access the linkage and adjusting screw, remove the tank and entire air cleaner housing. While there, also check the clamps for the throttle bodies as they have been found loose from the factory.

The valve plates sit slightly open with the engine off. Grabbing the linkage by hand and close the plates, you may notice that the plates are not open the same amount; this is what you are adjusting. By turning the screw just above the TBS screw, the front plate can be moved to more open or closed. The back cylinder is the constant.
There are two ways to measure the difference between the secondary throttle plates.
The first method, is to use a small piece of wire like a spark plug gap checker that is made of different size wires bent in a small "L" shape. Take a pair of pliers and straightened out a few of the smaller ones. Try the .020, .024, .028, .032. Then try inserting the wire between the throttle plate and the air horn while holding the linkage in the closed position. Adjust the screw so that the gap is the same for the front and rear plates. As the gap becomes closer you will need to use different size wires.
The second method is to measure the height of the open side of the throttle plate to the top of the air horn. For this, you will need a depth gauge that can measure very small increments. Adjust the screw so that the front and rear plates are the same measurement down from the top of the air horn while holding the linkage closed.
After the adjustment is made, be sure to paint the adjusting screw so it will not move from vibration. This can be done with nail polish.
Either method will work, it is thought that the second method is the more accurate.
After reassembly, you will need to perform a TBS (throttle body synchronization).

Don't grab the 650 plates and try to move by hand, can't be done without damage. The nut circled in red, in the first photo below, is turned by hand to move the secondary plates. This nut is located on the forward left side of the throttle bodies.)

Below are a few pictures that will help explain the procedure. These pictures are from a 1000 with special thanks to KLRman.

More reading on Secondary Adjustments can be found here.

https://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/s...ndary+throttle

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=12...%2Csecondaries





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Last edited by greywolf; 02-13-2013 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Changed STP to STV to fit with Suzuki manual nomenclature
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post #2 of 51 Old 01-18-2008, 07:33 PM
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Thanks for such a clear explanation. Can we please get this as a sticky?


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post #3 of 51 Old 01-18-2008, 09:11 PM
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Absolutely...sticky this.....another of Handyhikers fine work for the good of the group!!

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post #4 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 05:14 AM
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Thanks

That's about the most cool post I've seen this year. So many posts are focused on the PC and the primary throttle plates. I can't wait for the weater to clear so I can try adjusting mine.
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post #5 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 05:18 AM
 
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Great job Handyhiker, nice, simple and straightforward!
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post #6 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 01:35 PM
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adj

Good job on the pics!! For those of a more sporting nature, I have an alternate adjustment method. Carefully remove the 4 screws that hold the sec. plates & remove the plates. Result: much better bottom end torque and no more adjustments! The prim. TB adj. is still a must, however.

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post #7 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limobob View Post
Good job on the pics!! For those of a more sporting nature, I have an alternate adjustment method. Carefully remove the 4 screws that hold the sec. plates & remove the plates. Result: much better bottom end torque and no more adjustments! The prim. TB adj. is still a must, however.
No...you should gain more low end torque with "properly adjusted" sencondary plates in. Plates "out" you get a bigger mid/high rush with no speed or RPM restrictions. I'm pretty sure that I have less low end torque with my plates out, but my bike runs well without them. I may put mine back in and try this adjustment......because I fully believe the folks that have done this with positive results.

Thanks again Ken for taking the time to put this thread together.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

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post #8 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 07:22 PM
 
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Great job

Thanks a million
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post #9 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 09:39 PM
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re

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
No...you should gain more low end torque with "properly adjusted" sencondary plates in. Plates "out" you get a bigger mid/high rush with no speed or RPM restrictions. I'm pretty sure that I have less low end torque with my plates out, but my bike runs well without them. I may put mine back in and try this adjustment......because I fully believe the folks that have done this with positive results.

Thanks again Ken for taking the time to put this thread together.
Maybe each individual bike will respond differently to this mod. I just know my V has a lot better throttle response and wheelstands easier than w/ them in. Anyway, I was way happy w/ the results and having one less thing to fiddle with. You can ask Berserker about how fast my V is.

Yellow K3 1000 Cool add ons: Cheap guy cruise control (Cat o ring), ATV heated grips, Little tree pine air freshener
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post #10 of 51 Old 01-23-2008, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limobob View Post
Maybe each individual bike will respond differently to this mod. I just know my V has a lot better throttle response and wheelstands easier than w/ them in. Anyway, I was way happy w/ the results and having one less thing to fiddle with. You can ask Berserker about how fast my V is.
Yes the throttle respose is much quicker "or abrupt", compared to them in. If you don't have a PCIII and racing exhausts, as well as the secondaries out on your Vee......then I know your Vee doesn't run like mine.

Everyone that I have talked to that has adjusted their secondaries, said they are not coming back out. It should should not surprise anybody, that these are out of whack from the factory, because the TB adjustment is one of the very first checkouts that needs to be made. A finely/properly tuned Vee is like a whole new bike.....and things tend to stay pretty well once your dialed in.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

2015 DL650 XT "Hector"

1997 Honda Valkyrie 1500 custom “Dolores”




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