Headlight problems? - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
Information Vault A place to post polls about members and their bikes as well as published information relevant to V-Stroms, for example, tech reports, dyno charts, brochures, articles etc.

View Poll Results: Check your headlight status and cause if there was a problem.
I had a starter switch problem. 78 37.86%
I had a problem with a large connector under a rubber cover in the left cowling. 21 10.19%
I had a problem with a connector on the radiator shroud. 21 10.19%
I had a problem with the high/low beam switch. 8 3.88%
I had a problem but don't know the specific area. 18 8.74%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 206. You may not vote on this poll

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post #21 of 116 Old 04-02-2012, 03:21 PM
bluestraveller's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: KC
Posts: 49
My 2K9 Wee developed this problem late last summer. I didn't search the forum first & took me a few days to find a bad pin socket on the connector on the radiator shroud. I had such a hard time finding the cause of the trouble because every time I'd get the tank off & start tracing & ringing out wiring it would mysteriously start working again. My quick fix was to just cut off the pins, solder the wires together, then cover with heat shrink. I probably should buy the wiring kit from Eastern Beaver though.

2009 DL650ABS

"Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities".
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post #22 of 116 Old 04-02-2012, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Western NY
Posts: 984

Originally Posted by farmerlou View Post
I have a Plexiglas headlight guard. It has save a headlight lens at least once.
I'll be installing those right after the new HL assy.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]K7 Wee, rebuilt like new and then some after collision with deer and mildly farkled.
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post #23 of 116 Old 04-03-2012, 07:46 PM
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Location: Abbotsford (Clayburn), B.C.
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My lights just didn't come on one day. I was so confused because I knew it wasn't any of the wiring behind the rad. and/ or the cluster behind the fairing. I cleaned out the switch too with nothing. I then found the problem to be that the nibs (in the starter assembly) on the plunger were not being pressed up to the connectors due to the the vertical spring not doing it's job.
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post #24 of 116 Old 04-08-2012, 10:32 AM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 37
About 1980 lost the headlight at night on a 1978 Honda; pretty scary; kind of changed the lighting rules for me; Got my DL in Jan.; about the first thing I did was install HID's and put them on separate circuits; the circuits are separated to the point that each has an individual ground path to the battery; also have aux 10 watt LED's on a separate circuit;

But still, all lights require the ignition to be on; so if the main 30A blows or a connection fails between the battery and the ignition switch, NO LIGHT; Plan this week to install a separate "night running only" light switch on the Aux light circuit that switches them off the relay and straight to the battery (fused); and maybe since it will only be used at night I will flip the switch off when I get off the bike and not kill the battery.

If it sounds like overkill (guess it is) try losing all your lights on a absolutely black night!
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post #25 of 116 Old 04-15-2012, 02:53 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: nashville, tn
Posts: 132
my story:

last night, at 33000 miles on my 07 wee strom, my headlights stop working. i cranked the bike and when i pulled out of the rstaraunt i noticed that my lights didnt seem to be on. it was getting dark out. i pulled over and sure enuf, lights werent working. luckily i was aonly a few miles form home and the flashers worked.

got on this site this morn after tearing the whole bike apart, lol. turns out, it was the starter button switch. took it apart and cleaned the contacts and presto!

thanks again to stromtrooper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #26 of 116 Old 04-15-2012, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evanston IL USA
Posts: 38,049
Chances are it will happen again if you don't install relays and it can get harder to fix each time without them.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #27 of 116 Old 04-18-2012, 02:08 AM
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gresham, OR
Posts: 12
How did we ever survive without forums. After dropping my taxes off in the ritual last-minute ride, I noticed a lot of people flashing me. Odd, I thought... what happened to the wave. Then when I moved the bike into the garage I noticed no lights. Bulbs were good, fuses good and wiring all seemed to be intact.

D'Oh! Why didn't I think of the starter switch. That would explain the couple of groaning starts I had earlier today. I've had to do this with my '77 Wing, so it shouldn't be a big deal. For now, clean the contacts, but I think I'll go to a relay! Thanks for the advice. I'll post the verdict when I get 'er running.

At least it's raining for a couple of days, so I don't feel so bad.
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post #28 of 116 Old 04-18-2012, 03:00 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,879
"Cleaning the contacts" seems to be coming up alot latlely.

My opinion is the plunger spring is #1 cause of failure.
Snap off the post it fits on - problem solved.

#2 is contact legs bent. Straighten them out - problem solved.

The last problem is undersized wiring and harness connections.
EB relay kit will solve this.
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post #29 of 116 Old 04-19-2012, 03:57 PM
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Location: Southern NJ across the river from Philadelphia
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Unhappy It just happened to me, too

I came out of the building to leave work at 9-ish last Friday (the 13TH of course!) night and started my K8 Wee-strom, only to find that I had no headlight. I checked both fuses, ok, shined flashlight into the two bulbs, filments looked intact, wiggled wires behind them and underneath the fusebox, shut it off & re-started, worked the Hi-lo and Pass switches- still no headlight.

So, having little choice, I rode with flashers on, a bit puckered, & luckily didn't get hit or ticketed, or run into anything on the pitch-dark stretches. I stayed on back streets I know well.

Not something I ever care to repeat, not ever. There was one moment of hilarity (not really) on the way, the unlighted dip into a narrow S-curve under a very old RR trestle which we as kids called dead-man's-curve because there were in fact fatal crashes there regularly.

So, as luck would have it, there I am decending into this blackness with only flashers on, nobody ahead or behind me to light the totally dark road, and as I get to the center of the S, there's a transit bus coming at me taking up one and a half lanes. I had to laugh as I grazed my right elbow on the rock wall hoping not to be crushed like a bug.

I made it to my garage much relieved and swapped for the Jeep so to get back home. Lucky I keep a spare key on me. After taking apart the left-side switch assembly to no avail, I detached the right-side, cleaned out the dirt and cobweb and got my headlights back. Whew.

Then I read about it on the forums. Ugh. I'd no idea or would've done a preventative. Eastern Beaver got my order the next day. It should be here tomorrow and I'll install on this weekend.

~Paul - yellow DL650K8
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post #30 of 116 Old 04-27-2012, 01:44 AM
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gresham, OR
Posts: 12
A headlight switch fail at 15K is pretty unusual for me. I'm used to 30 year old Goldwings with electrical gremlins, but not my new Strom! I pulled the starter switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Nada. I could wiggle the starter switch and get a faint glow from the lights, but nothing I'd rely on.

On the second disassembly, I pulled the switch completely apart. There's a tiny spring under the contact. I had to bend the fingers just a little bit so the contact could float freely. Before, it was stuck in a down position.

With the contact freely floating, a little bit of silicone in there for good measure, and all of the copper polished up, it went back together and everything works perfectly again.

Now that I've done this once, it's something that could realistically be done in a pinch on the side of the road. (Though I sure wouldn't want to chance losing those tiny little parts!)
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