A poll on charging system problems. Yes/No and what bike? - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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View Poll Results: Please check as many answers as apply to you.
I had a charging system problem on a 2002 DL1000 9 1.52%
I had a charging system problem on a 2003 - 2012 DL1000 82 13.83%
I had a charging system problem on a 2004-2007 DL650 28 4.72%
I had a charging system problem on a 2008 - 2011 DL650 75 12.65%
I had a charging system problem on a 2012 - 2016 DL650 48 8.09%
I had a charging system problem on a 2014 - 2016 DL1000 1 0.17%
I had a charging system problem on a 2017 or later DL650 0 0%
I had a charging system problem on a 2017 or later DL1000 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 593. You may not vote on this poll

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post #11 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I saw no good way of including mileage in the poll. Only ten questions are allowed. I doubt if a larger load would be a contributing factor. A smaller load generates more heat.

Are you sure that the Voltage regulator is the shunt type? I was under the impression that it was more of a switch. Like a warm n safe or gerbings thermostat. On for a little bit then off for a little bit etc.. The more load the longer it's on.
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post #12 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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A r/r can't work like a heat troller. The on segment could allow way too much voltage. A heat troller can work like it does because the regulator limits the voltage the troller passes.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #13 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 12:25 PM
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Over 76,000 miles on my 2006 DL650 with no problems.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 175,000+ km, 108,500+ miles.

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post #14 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
Are you sure that the Voltage regulator is the shunt type? I was under the impression that it was more of a switch. Like a warm n safe or gerbings thermostat. On for a little bit then off for a little bit etc.. The more load the longer it's on.
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...
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post #15 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 12:39 PM
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Electrosport R/R started failing within a couple of months--
Those things are notoriously bad.
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post #16 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 07:01 PM
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I recently had my stator go, and dealer said the RR was weak as well, their reason the stator fried so they recommended I replace that too, so I ordered of a MOSFET FH012AA and had them install that as well, now the RR runs only slightly warm to touch at a steady 14.5v, not burning hot like the oem RR that let voltage fluctuate over 3 volts

the more I learn about the oem RR, the more I come to believe that its a pert destine to eventual failure, I know they were on my SV, went thru a couple of them, but never a stator



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post #17 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtalk View Post
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...
just cause the charging system modulates doesn't mean the electrical system does, the battery holds the voltage steady



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post #18 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyo View Post
just cause the charging system modulates doesn't mean the electrical system does, the battery holds the voltage steady
You should have seen my headlights modulate when running a heat troller with incandescent lights. The voltage varied from under 12V when the troller was on to over 14V when it was off.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #19 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtalk View Post
It would be more useful if those who have had charging system problems also list their electrical accessories, particularly high-draw items like incandescent lighting and (regularly used) heated gear.

Mileage would probably be good too. I'm not sure it's meaningful to compare an '08 with 5000 miles to an '08 with 30k.

Oh, and "had none" should be "have not yet had any".


Good idea! 30,8?? miles and my stator burnt up. NO electrical extras at all. I run with my brights on almost all the time when the sun is up, but that's it. Replaced my stator with a re-built unit about 1,000 miles ago, and I'm nervous as hell, barely even enjoying riding because I can't keep my eyes off of the volt meter.
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post #20 of 217 Old 07-27-2010, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtalk View Post
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...

Depending on the speed of modulation the battery would be enough of a buffer to hide the fluctuations.

I used to see a similar modulation affect on my KLR headlight when rolling down the highway. As I added load to the system, I could slow the modulation down or speed it up.

The point is I'm not positive that the strom charging system is a shunt type system. There are other ways to vary/regulate voltage. Shunting it is a pretty ancient way of doing it.


EDIT Think of it like this. Old style household dimmers used to be basically shunt type dimmers. They'd run the current through a variable resistor to change voltage and dim the lights. Modern household dimmers are switching regulators. When they are on full power it's full power to the light, but as you dim the lights it starts switching the power on and off to the light, but it's so fast you don't see a flicker, only a dimming of the light as the average voltage become lower. For an instant the bulb is getting full voltage then another instant its getting no voltage. My example of the gerbing thermostat is poor because of the long cycle times. But for a charging system the cycles could be in fractions of a second.

Last edited by Gramps; 07-27-2010 at 10:14 PM.
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