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HID Projector retrofit into Headlight assembly

40K views 55 replies 19 participants last post by  Dakota.morgan91 
#1 · (Edited)
After getting annoyed with the performance of HID Plug n Play bulb into my vstrom assembly for about 1 year i decide to do the project properly. ( Note HID plug and play is a cheap but which works "not to bad" for Vstrom headlight - however it is far from ideal - lots of discussion about HID and reflector housing designed for Halogen bulbs on the net)

I did this about 15 months ago using HID projector retrofit source from here Bi-xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 2.0 - HID Projectors from The Retrofit Source Inc

( i use Morimoto Mini DS2 projector because it is next to no cutting required for our vstrom headlight assembly and it is reversible, although not readily)

Unfortunately, i did not take pictures whilst disassembling. but the procedure essentially are as follows:

1) Disassemble Headlight assembly;

2) Bake :yikes: headlight housing in Oven at 90c or 200F for 10 minutes

3) Pry open headlights - insert projector and tighten at the back

4) without replacing the front lens refit headlight on the bike and test for horizontalness - on vstrom it requires approx 15 degree anticlockwise adjustment - slight dremelling of housing is required

5) Reassemble and enjoy

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I went for an asymmetric look because the light cut-off is too good on a motorbike - it's not a problem for cars - but lean over, i want more stray light above the cut off provided by the normal halogen light to help me see better ( you can see for yourself on the cut off pictures)





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Just HID projector light cut-off - note the rainbow colour just above the cutoff - note i did some mods to the cut-off curtain which makes the cut-off line not quite straight - my fault - the light above the cut-off is from reflection from the headlight reflector housing - there is zero stray light with HID projector



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for a comparison - my normal headlight on low beam



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Finally my combination - gives me evenly lit light output in the foreground without blinding myself and enough light to see further down the road without blinding others.




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more pictures of the bike look like - note these pictures are not taken in the dark with blinding camera shots like a lot of people do - my LED DRL and headlights are a lot brighter when seen from further away or at night - but this gives you the best idea of how they look like



 
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#3 ·
if by H4 retrofit, you mean one of those Plug n Play HID with moveable HID bulb, then NO. - They require the stock reflector to work, which is the whole problem to start with.

On a proper OEM Bi-Xenon system, the bulb dont move, a flap or cutain moves within the HID Projector moves to achieve the "hi/lo" beam results.

These retro-fit system mimic the factory HID projectors system, even using some OEM ballast and bulbs to attempt to achieve the same results. The hard part is requiring you to open the headlight and mount the copycat projector into the existing headlight system - Some hard-core enthusiasts will buy a second hand OEM HID projector from donor vehicle requiring generally major surgery(cutting reflector and headlight housing) to fit properly.

Morimoto Mini systems are pretty much designed for H4 headlight, requiring no cuts to the reflector housings- essentially the neck of HID projector fit through existing H4 Bulb hole and you tighten down.


see this website for further info and generic installation instructions- spend a bit of time reading, so you understand the whole process, although compared to other vehicles, vstrom is relatively straight when using the Morimoto Mini D2S 2.0 or H1 5.0 system ( i use D2S system because you can buy Phillips bulb for it -same as ones use in Lexus/toyota)

The Retrofit Source Inc

HiDplanet : The Official Automotive Lighting Forum
 
#8 ·
U can just rebake to attach lens, or scrape out old glue and put new glue in and bake and attach. Bulbs are included when u buy as a package.. Although u can buy individually
 
#11 ·
I guess the harness does interface with the stock headlight plugs etcs... although for a more secure attachment i use a 2 pong waterproof item from EasternBeaver.

I hide the ballast just behind the windshield and in front of headlight metal rack.
this is NOT the ballast but it is placed at a similar position - the picture was taken from where i did a PnP HID system which i have since removed
 
#12 ·
Well after thinking about the price for a while, I pulled the trigger on this retro kit from the retrofit source

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S) - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

It comes with the same projectors, as well as all hardware needed for the install.

After reading every post:jawdrop: on this site about hid light, I'm concerned about short cycling the ballast every time I turn the key. I might try to install a delay on make timer to not close the relay circuit untill 30 seconds after energized

Ill post some pics of the install when the kit arrives
 
#13 ·
Damage from cycling HIDs comes in the millisecond range. Still, I start the engine by pressing the start button to break the light circuit, turning on the key, and pulling in the clutch to engage the starter.
 
#14 · (Edited)
+1 on what GW said- I was thinking of getting a delay relay until i read his method in one of threads - no problems so far with morimoto and on my previous VME HID.

Well, NSDAVE, are u doing the pair or an asymmetric setup like mine.

check out this link too - it's in greek but i am sure there's some useful info there once u do a google-translate
http://www.vstromhellasforum.com/t13200-topic
 
#16 ·
Things to consider - notes from my own instal.

1) spend a bt of time reading HIDplanet forum, plenty of other peoples install to read and get a good feel - and also the mod section to get an idea of what do look for in performance terms.

2) Vstrom's hi-beam turns off the low beam, make sure u ordered /make the harness to suit or add a relay to turn it on even on high.

3) test the lights on a level bench and tune first to satisfaction or return if not satisfied.

4) you will need to do a slight cut on the vstrom housing where the H4 bulb goes int to turn the HID projector anticlockwise to achieve a level output- ie no tilt... <at least on my instal anyway)

5) road test the system on bike BEFORE closing up the lens and make any changes as necessary

6) get an extra pair of headlight rubber waterproof cap - you will probably ruin the original while trying cut it to size to fit the new plug

7) consider installing the coke bottle cap mod to adjust verticle aim without tools - very important, esp on HID, to adjust aim on the fly due to your load changes - without tools,

Good luck and have fun
 
#17 ·
Just finished installing my H1 projector retrofit I got from amazon. I have to say, absolutely amazing difference!

Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle
Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle
Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Lighting
Night Lighting Street light Landscape Road
Light Automotive lighting Darkness Headlamp Night


My headlights have sub a more useable beam pattern, the light is crystal clear and bright. The high beam Is the most useable high I've EVER had on any vehicle. And they look very cool!

I got the H1 kit because cheaper... Not to mention it I easy to find h1 hid bulbs for cheap everywhere. It also comes with the BMW style halo rings, (white, not blue) which I find almost necessary on a motorcycle.
My reasoning here: when you switch to projector lights, your visibility is half of that with halogen bulbs, and non-comparable to hid retrofit. The rings not only look cool, but stand out from the dim scatter that projectors have above the cut off line. I wired mine to be on always for this reason.

I did not purchase any wiring harness for this kit, as I wanted to do my own us rom wiring.

I used a relay with switched power from instrument cluster for the lights and halo rings. Now I do not have my lights cutting out when I start the bike :) I then wired my high solenoid to the high beam circuit. I do love the way it is wired now. Very simple, and less voltage drop than a pnp HID kit, due to direct battery power from the relay.

This is by far, THE BEST farkle I have on my bike now and I love them!


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#18 ·
got a link to the amazon kit?

yes above the cut off line has definitely less visibility in day time as there is no stray light at all - i used a separate LED visibility lights on the handguard for that purpose.

Part of reason i retained on Halogen light to my own annoyance is that i find the stray light above the cutoff is useful on seeing the road when the bike is lean over at night at places where there is no/very low street lights.

How do u find performance on lean over?
 
#19 ·
....
Part of reason i retained on Halogen light to my own annoyance is that i find the stray light above the cutoff is useful on seeing the road when the bike is lean over at night at places where there is no/very low street lights.

How do u find performance on lean over?
I use the "flash to pass" trigger right before I start leaning over; no problems.

I wouldn't have gotten the kit w/o the halo rings for visibility, good on you for the led lights.

Here's the link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SDZ07I/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1366156530&sr=8-7&pi=SL75

Read the reviews. That's what sold me
They are all metal with chrome plating, plastic shroud of course with the super bright ccfl ring. And true fresnel lenses, I love that it is H1 too.



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#21 ·
I thought the same thing, I called a representative from TheRetrofitSource and asked about "economical" kits, he's the one who referred me to this seller. Thy buy morimoto h1 kits in bulk for a discount and resell on amazon. He said the H1 kits are as goo as any, the bulbs are just better for d2s. I really live their honesty and how straightforward they are. I would recommend them and the amazon seller to anyone.

I can't say the same for the 30 dollar kits though...


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#23 ·
Well I completed the retro fit tonight, all in all took about 5 or 6 hours. I'll have to post pics later

Here are a few things I learned:

I used a heat gun to remove the lens, if I was to do it again I would just use the oven as I damaged a few spots prying it open, I did use the oven to seal it backup ( the wife was out) :)

I did have to modify the lock ring as both projectors were tilted to the right

I ordered the 43000 set and the low beam is great, the high beam is amazing

You have to be carful with the bulbs as I broke the locking tabs of one bulb (d2s) bulbs :(

The strom actually has a small hole in the original reflector to run the wires for the high/low cutoff, the instruction show you running the wire through the same hole as the projector.


I'll try to post some pics later



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#24 · (Edited)
got some pictures loaded
bare light assembly


lens pulled off


projectors in place


projectors


into the oven to reseal


one of these while i waited



also here the entire kit, it came with everything needed, including a H4 relay kit to ensue power to the ballast is not interupted when switching from high beam to low beam

I did have to modify it a bit as it was designed for an automobile application, there was about 5 feet of wire between the two ballast leeds and the main power leed from the battery was too short
 
#25 ·
Nice write up! It nice to see so many people switching to projector lights.

We all had to modify our lock rings or housing, that's how the strom is manufactured. I'm glad you got the harness, making my own wasn't fun. 4300 is really what I wanted (and what I got) but I think the 6000k lights I had in my BMW put out more light, oh well. Enjoy the great light output, and remember to keep your finger on the high beam trigger around turns if you need it.

5-6 hours seems normal across the board for install time so you did good! Idk about that heat gun idea though!!! Sounds more scary than the oven!

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#26 ·
Got out tonight to try the new lights, had to make a few adjustments to dial in the right height

here is the pattern on low beam, I forgot to get one of the high beam. As far as cornering, at speed the cutoff isn't too bad, it is when you are maneuvering parking lots or slow speed that the light doesnt travel with you

 
#27 ·
I installed a VVME HID kit about a year ago. Yeh, nice and bright at first, but after actually using it for a while, it's not all it's cracked up to be. The light is glaring to oncoming traffic, and while I haven't been flashed, I know it's very annoying. The beam pattern is mediocre, a nice, bright hot spot, but very uneven distribution. Anyway, got in on a group buy from theretrofitsource through another forum and picked up a set of D2S projectors that will hopefully be going in this weekend if I have time. Looking forward to doing HIDs the right way.
 
#29 ·
I did get to tear the bike down and get the projectors installed in the headlight assembly and fired them up for testing, but haven't put the bike back together, so no test ride yet. However, the test in the garage alone reaffirmed my decision, and I should have done this from the beginning, not just shoved HID bulbs in the stock reflectors.

 
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