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If you have a weak feeling rear brake, read this.

5K views 26 replies 22 participants last post by  redbike72 
#1 ·
I have replaced my rear pads with three different brands of pads(stock, DP, and EBC) with no luck of getting the rear brakes to feel a little stronger. I know they are notorious for not being all that strong, but I can never leave well enough alone. I just replaced the pads again with EBC sintered due to the old ones being shot. I also took the rear brake pedal off and cleaned and lubed the pivot shaft. The difference was night and day. The pivot shaft was a little dirty, but not all that bad. The whole combination resulted in about a 200% improvement in braking power. I was amazed at how strong the rear brake is now. Bottom line is take the extra time and effort to pull the pedal off and grease the shaft at least once a year.
 
#2 ·
Good to know. Thanks!
 
#3 ·
One of the first things I did on my '07 Wee was replace the rear pads with EBC semimetallics - they're still on there. I can use the rear brake to stop in traffic and at slow speed and not upset the chassis. Works very well - could always be stronger, of course. I will do your grease suggestion right away - thanks!
 
#5 ·
Make sure to use hi-temp brake grease on sliders. Stronger braking is fine with ABS bikes. Stronger rear brakes on non ABS bike may cause more problems with average riders who don't practice braking enough. On a hard stop, it's all too easy to lock a rear brake due to weight transfer and have the rear slide out sideways which can cause a high side when the scared rider gets off the brake.
 
#9 ·
Even the weakest feeling rear brake, under normal riding, will lock up super easy when the rider is really on the binders braking as hard as possible (oh sheeeit! moments).....the rear might not even be touching the ground (you'll never know), and it's often a better strategy to lighten up on the back brake, or avoid it entirely, because it's a lot easier to steer/maneuver a moto when the rear wheel is rotating vs. locked up and skidding. A locked up skidding rear wheel means you're frozen in your line and can't steer.

I'm gonna be due for some new pads and was set on the HH pads, but these EBC sintered are interesting - how might they be for the two front calipers? Anyone run these up front?
 
#11 ·
I put EBC HH sintered on the front of my Wee. They lessened braking effort significantly. I used GG organic pads on the rear. I wanted better feel and less power from my rear brakes. The stock Glee pads feel very much like the altered Wee setup.
 
#15 ·
Well...as long as a tire is in contact with the pavement its brake can help us stop shorter. Rear braking pressure can get progressively harder, then as weight is transferred off the rear the rear brake pressure is lightened as front braking pressure is increased.

Always use the same movements you'd use in an emergency differing only in intensity. When you're in the real emergency you'll automatically do what you've always been doing, not something different and somehow better for the circumstance. There just isn't time.
 
#16 ·
rear beake

I just bought a used 1000 (30000mi) and the rear brake really sucked, (pads good) you had to stand on it, I wondered about the lever pivot but it seemed fairly free, after reading your post I took it all apart, cleaned everything up and put it back together with anti-seize, WOW!!! what a difference :thumbup: Thanks
 
#20 ·
There is no such thing as average mileage. Brake use is not mileage related. A tourer can put on hundreds of miles without touching the brakes while a city commuter may have to get on the brakes multiple times in one mile.
 
#19 ·
I don't get how you can be going through brake pads that fast. The pads i had on my bike had over 40k km on them and were still fine. The slotted wear indicator was still visible. I replaced them anyways.

I brake mainly with my fronts, which also look fine after more than 40k km.

If greasing the lever improved your braking power, that means the lever was binding somehow as you didn't really fix anything. It certainly is good to keep it greased though.
 
#22 ·
Some riders don't know that they're resting their right toe on the brake lever and always riding with light braking.
 
#21 ·
Rear brake pivot corrosion and binding is a pretty common occurrence and discovery over on the vintage bike forums. One of those things no one ever thinks to maintain.
 
#23 ·
I never felt the rear brake had any feel at all. It was pretty on/off. But I have a big, heavy foot so I decided to get out and experiment with locking up the rear and while there is a fine line on crossing over to hardcore lockup, it can be avoided by pushing it to the edge and memorizing the feel. My 2 cents.
 
#26 ·
I think you should grease the pivot joint to see if that helps. If not, you could install a SS brake line or change the pads to HH, both of which would make the brake more responsive. However, allow me to suggest a word of caution that most riders prefer a strong front brake and a somewhat weaker rear brake. Your foot is stronger than your finger(s).

I have a 2012 and the only change I have made was to the front brake lever where I slid the control assembly inwards so that my birdie finger ( which is the only finger I use to brake with ) comfortably sits near the outer portion of the brake lever.

I do find that the rear brake is weak, but in my case this is because I am new to the VStrom and I am coming from a bike of similar weight that had a much larger rear tire. I have not had any issues with the rear brake lever. It is my experience that the rear brake doesn't near as much stopping power as my previous bike did.

My $.02
 
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