Replaced my chain about 2000 miles ago and noticed this while lubing it today.
Seems like the master link rivet broke and is now barely on by a little piece. New link or entire chain? I hate being so heap, I don't want to do anything with it but I also don't want to have the chain fly off and really screw me.
It's a rivet type link, and I've used 3 now and don't like how finicky they are, jut bought a new clip type from my cycle store and installing tomorrow.
I don't wish to offend, but since this is the sort of thing that can easily kill you dead, I will take the risk:
THIS.
THIS RIGHT HERE.
THIS IS WHY YOU DON'T INSTALL CHEAP SHITTY CHINESE CHAINS!
:furious:
Sorry, but this requires a complete do-over, immediately. Get a high-quality chain and sprockets before you encounter a grisly demise. I highly recommend getting your parts from our pal Blair at SVracingparts.com, but whatever you get, get something good.
If I have offended, good. Let the anger flow, then direct it at the bastards who import those shitty chains.
If I am incorrect, I hereby retract all aspersions cast your way and redirect them to the shitty chain sellers. :thumbup:
Could also be the tool was used impropperly or the link rivet pressed too much, thereby causing thinning of the exposed part of the rivet. I'm guessing cheap chain though. I use clip links on the dirt bikes but wouldn't use one on the strom. Probably ok, I just wouldn't chance it though
You're right you don't want to have the chain fly off.
Best case, you get lucky and no major damage.
Bad case chain gets thrown through the engine case= big money fix.
Worst case, chain gets thrown and causes crash, you get hurt bad or worse.
Fix it.
+1 on that "Worst case". The chain breaks, jams in between the swing arm and the ends of the bolts that attach the rear sprocket, locking the rear wheel. It happened to me at about 5 MPH and I skidded in the gravel at the side of the road. If it had happened on the highway at 70 MPH, I doubt I would be here writing this.
I "improved" the design when I installed my new chain by grinding off the extra three or four threads on those bolts that stick out beyond the nuts. Now there is room for the chain to (maybe) pass between the swing arm and the bolts without jamming the wheel.
If you've installed 3 and they "all did this" your technique is in question.
Lot's of folks really recommend against the clip type. I dunno why, they were great for 100 years before the rivet showed up.
The rivet master link must be of the same brand as the chain, and perhaps the same model line as the chain. The chain maker's web site should have the info.
Seems like the master link rivet broke and is now barely on by a little piece. New link or entire chain? I hate being so heap, I don't want to do anything with it but I also don't want to have the chain fly off and really screw me.
I'd like to know what brand of chain and where you got it - - SO I DO NOT ORDER THAT ONE!!
I'm not rich, but I can't afford to buy cheap tools OR PARTS - because you wind up replacing them sooner than quality stuff, HOWEVER, till I know what brand you used I can't say it's the part or the technique used to install the rivet.
I got back into riding in 2007 after a 20+ year break and got a gold wing before getting the Vstrom in 2009, and when I have had to replace the chain I've ordered from SV Racing, he has good prices, quality parts, and AWESOME SERVICE!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE at the very least get a new master-link in there from the same mfg as the chain and meant for that chain.
If it IS a less-expensive chinese chain, do yourself and your loved-ones a favor and buy a good chain and perhaps a better chain TOOL. BLAIR has a decent combo package from time to time - that's how I got MY chain tool.
It's not cheap but it was the best chain I have ever used. When I measured it against my old D.I.D. chain it was much stronger. The side plates alone were .0040 thicker and this uses the X-ring. You get what you pay for.
I've had two circlips come off my KLR; the first time I rode from North Carolina to Alberta before I noticed: that chain was put on at a shop. The other one I noticed on my own, because I was paranoid. And yes, the circlip was put on the correct way.
Anyway, when I replaced the chain I went to a rivet link, and have not had a problem since. You can buy a special tool, or make do with something like this. (I used the second idea, and it worked fine)
A big yes to buying a good quality chain...if a chain breaks, too many things can go wrong, from damaged cases to a locked back wheel. I was highsided by a broken chain on my Norton once. Just being stranded would be a huge relief in a broken-chain situation!
Well, I ended up replacing the entire chain, it just wasn't worth it to me.
Honestly, nothing went wrong with the chain, it WAS my technique that failed every time I did it. I really do not like the rivet type chains and I'm glad I switched. Bought an EK chain because that's all they had.
The "old" chain really wasn't crappy at all. It was a VOLAR Oring chain, powder coated green. The only weak link was obviously the master link. I believe that I am just too impatient to go slow on the rivets. I put a crack in that I did not notice at first, until it broke off in a chunk. But not a manufacturer defect, just user error. I have used their gains before with no problems. My last chain just started to rust at 15500 miles: again due to user error, forgot to lube for 1200 miles.
At least I pay attention to things when maintaining. It really could have ended badly, which is why I will not use a rivet type again. The ONLY reason I won't use that brand again is because
1. I have to wait for it to come in the mail.
2. ONLY rivet type links available or endless.
3. No separate master links sold individually.
It's still a great chain and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to save money. The price of my new chain was twice the old chain and sprockets. my new chain was only 144.
Volar are utter junk and to think otherwise is delusional.
Every forum has reports of failures if you take 10 seconds to run a search, right from installation...the rivet link cracking. Gee, sound familiar? And then after that they kink up, lose o-rings, etc, etc.
yea, I don't know anything about that brand of chain. Use what you're happy with and have had good experiences with. Shrug. If you're to believe internet forums on everything the Vstrom is a spitting, sputtering, clutch chuddering low wattage output POS.
anyways - on that circlip - make sure it's installed the right direction, and I always take a pair of vise grips and close the tangs a little bit on the open end for extra "stay-put". BUT - this makes it a single use clip, cause you gotta destroy it to get it off there. And even if you don't destroy it, you've bent it a couple of times and weakened it. I've never had one come off or break.
All arguments, points, and feelings aside. I have decided to sacrifice my chain and destroy it... By testing it to the limits!
Tomorrow I will bring my old chain to work for various tests. I'll look today at the process a gain actually goes through for testing. The test I really want to see is the breaking point, to see the rated max tensile strength of the chain. Granted, it has a couple thousand miles on it, so it probably won't be what it is supposed to be. I am just curious to see what it takes to snap a used Chinese chain.
I hope that this can be some sort of relatable evidence to the quality of such products, and an example of their reliability.
I will post a video thread this weekend when I'm finished, and post the results as soon as I know what they are.
I was pretty sure that was a Volar chain from that photo. Sorry, but it really is nothing more than Chinese junk. Just in this small sample of a few links in your photo, look at the inconsistent staking on the rivet on the right.
EK is one of the best, if not THE best chain brand on the planet. Made in Japan by the ascended Zen masters of chain-making...
There are several others that are also excellent and made in first-world countries.
Also, you can get screw-type master links for EK chains. These are pretty much foolproof -- just tighten the bolts until the heads break off and you have a perfectly riveted chain, every time. EK even makes green chains, if that's what you're into , although I don't think they're available in 525.
If a rider were really pressed for pennies, there are somewhat less expensive chain brands out there that aren't dangerously bad like this. For example, Parts Unlimited sells a house brand chain that is made in Japan and a bit less expensive -- $99 for a 120 link 525 o-ring chain at Dennis Kirk.
Also, don't overlook your friendly Suzuki dealer. You can order the OEM chain (DID or RK, IIRC) and sprockets (Sunstar) at a surprisingly low cost.
Personally, I just order the chain and sprocket kits from SVRacingParts.com -- easy, fast, and pretty much the best total price you'll find.
I was pretty sure that was a Volar chain from that photo. Sorry, but it really is nothing more than Chinese junk. Just in this small sample of a few links in your photo, look at the inconsistent staking on the rivet on the right....
This test I will conduct tomorrow will honestly sell me on whether or not I want to use these chains again. I do understand everything all of you have said about the quality make of Japanese chains and even good brand name chains. They the all uniformly made with high quality parts and materials, extensively quality checked, and available almost anywhere bikes are sold. My only kicker is price vs. quality/reliability. Although it may not be apparent, I do concern my safety, as I obviously didn't ride the bike at all after I found the problem, and then installed a very (known) good chain.
I am very excited about this test, mostly because no matter what, I WILL destroy this chain. What man doesn't like to destroy things? I will attempt to make it as detailed and accurate as possible, with a 20 ton pull scale and an overhead crane, with chain anchored.
Just contacted my local dealer, they should be giving me a few different chains with differing mileage and conditions to do a compare-o. I want to find out differing brands with similar mileage, low, medium and high. Also with differing conditions, such as dirty, rusty, heavily worn, kinked and many others. They should be giving me details with the chains like mileage, bike type, and what type of lube used, also whether it was dealer or user installed.
I'm going to watch this with close interest. I recently was in a bind and installed a Volar chain on my bike. They are located just down the street from me and I actually bought it directly from Volar.
I was having a bear of a time riveting the master link myself. The link does not have brass inserts like other chains that allow it to rivet easily. They are just steel, which obviously being hardened does not want to deform. Luckily they include both clip style and rivet style master links with their chains(to appease dirt and street riders, I assume.)
I haven't noticed any abnormal wear compared to my previous DID xring chains. And it seems to be holding up well to my excessive use of throttle around town. I'm more worried about the clip master link than the chain myself, the whole idea behind them makes me shutter.
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