I rode my 650 L2 onto the bench, to fit Richland Rich lowering links, a PD chain oiler, and a Gammatronics battery/charge monitor.
The fitting of these went fine, but when I came to start the bike, I got all the normal routine when switching on except for the fuel pump running up. The starter turns the motor over though.
The screen shows the usual stuff, except for the 'CHEC' showing.
Now I checked that the bike was in neutral, and that the sidestand was in the up position, and that I had the clutch lever fully pulled in.
Still no pump sounding!
So removed all the connections I made for the battery/charge monitor and the feed to the PD chain oiler. Still no pump sounding!
So checked all the fuses, including to 30 amp main fuse. All were found to be OK.
So, I've come to the point where I need some help!
Please tell me where I have gone wrong, and what I should test for next.
I had trouble with my side stand switch. It wasn't being pushed in far enough. Just bend the metal piece on the stand that pushes the switch in slightly with a hammer so it pushes the switch all the way in. When mine malfunctioned though the starter wouldn't even spin.
You'll only get a code if the FI light is on. Codes don't display if a CHEC is present. There was nothing strange about what you saw. Again, it's the kill switch or the side stand switch that cause a CHEC.
When I connected the Battery/Charging monitor and the PD oiler, I used the switched power from the unused white 4 way connecter just in front of the 'dealer mode' plug.
Could this be my problem, upsetting the electronics?
I have rechecked all fuses including the ABS ones with a Fluke meter, and all are OK.
Following Greywolfs suggestion, in that its either the sidestand switch or the kill switch.
I have pretty much discounted the kill switch, as when turning the motor over, trying to start it, if I hit the kill switch and the motor cuts out straight away.
This tells me the kill switch is OK.
The sidestand switch itself, when fully pushed in to its limit makes no difference, to the starting. The motor just spins.
So, have traced the sidestand switch wiring to the green plug just in front of the main 30 amp fuse, and attached to the wiring harness.
Its bloody awkward to get at, and PVC taped to the harness.
If I can get the plug apart, and short the two wires, I am hopeful that will clear the problem.
But if not, I am really scratching my head?
I missed the fact that the starter spins. The only way it can do that with a CHEC showing is if the CHEC is there because the instrument panel is not getting a signal from the ECM. If there is a problem with either switch, the bike won't crank. Are you getting fuel pump noises? I worry about what wire you are using to get switched power. I have a hunch it's one of the all black wires in a diagnostic module that may have more involvement than just being hot with the ignition on. You want a brown or an orange/green wire for ignition on power.
Have managed to disconnect the green plug that the sidestand switch feeds into.
Connecting my Fluke meter to the cable from the switch, I get 2.2 Megohms, when I push the switch in.
Does not sound right to me, as I was expecting a full short.
Greywolf, the fuel pump does not run. I took my switched feed for my PD oiler and the Gammatronics monitor, from the 4 way plug just in front the dealer mode plug.
The 4 wires are all coloured black with a greenish/greyish tube.
Have I messed up?
UK bikes have that connector. I can't find it on the service manual I have. I don't know for sure what it connects to but I wouldn't use it unless I knew. There was some discussion on the connector in the UK forum. Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Site. Discussion Forum
Closing that switch should have taken it to 0 Ohms. Stop trying to crank it until you get a fuel pump sound. Maybe you did something to bypass the safety cutouts that keep the starter from cranking but still have the part that cuts power to the fuel pump.
Right, first up the bike is running, and running fine as far as I can see.
Early this morning, I went to my local dealer, and they were very helpful.
Greywolf, as I mentioned, I cut two feed wires from the white 4 way connector, where all four wires are black in colour with green/grey tubes.
Well, it seems that this 4 way connector is used when initialising new/replacement ignition keys, so the dealer informs me.
There is something in that connector that the ECU wishes to see, when switching the ignition on. I do not know what!
What I apparently did when reconnecting that connector, I swapped the wires over, and confused the ECU.
So, now I have to sort out the sidestand cut-off switch.
As, whether pushed in, or left out, that switch does not stop the bike from starting.
So, I will have a chat with the dealer in the morning.
Thank you for all you help, and especially to Greywolf for his clear insight, and trouble shooting abilities.
One last request, can someone give me a definitive answer to the question, what resistance should I read from the sidestand cut-out switch, when the sidestand is in the up position?
It is a normally open switch so it should be infinite resistance when the sidestand is not in Up position, and near 0 resistance when in the Up position.
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