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Chain slack on centerstand?

13K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  Not Fragile 
#1 ·
I know you're supposed to check the chain slack on the kickstand, but has anyone found a measurement for checking it while on the centerstand, it would be a lot easier! Cheers--BB
 
#2 ·
There isn't a whole lot of difference. That being said, any difference is in a dangerous direction. I feel comfortable with between 1 and 1.5 inches
 
#4 ·
On my Vee, its 1/4 inch looser on the center stand than on the sidestand. You could figure out for yourself the difference on your own bike, I bet you know how.:confused:
 
#5 ·
On my Vee, its 1/4 inch looser on the center stand than on the sidestand.
That makes sense to me, as the chain gets tighter as the suspension is compressed. One of the Husky/BMW Dual sports doesn't have this tightening of the chain during suspension compression, because the swing-arm pivot point, the Countersprocket, and the Sprocket are always in perfect alignment to one another....so, they run the chain with less "play" on that bike. All the other ones I know of tighten as the suspension compresses.
 
#6 ·
The difference I saw was a little less than that.
 
#7 ·
Actually, the tightest spot is when the swing arm is level (the axle, swing arm, and counter sprocket or all in a line). Having the bike on the side stand puts your swing arm close to this straight line. If the swing arm is hanging down (like on the center stand) its loser, once the suspension compresses and the axle goes above the counter sprocket the chain loosens a little again.

GW, if I am not mistaken, your glee swing arm is shorter than my vee's.
 
#8 ·
The Wee and Glee have longer wheelbases than the Vee. There are a lot of other variables that establish the static sag from bike to bike.
 
#9 ·
center stand chain adjustment

While the bike is on the center stand you can slowly spin the rear wheel and find the tightest spot in the chain.
Adjusting with respect to the tight spot, in chain and sprockets as they wear, is important.
 
#10 ·
just the way I do it..

The following is the procedure I use. I suggest no one else use it! I take no responsibility if someone else decides to ignore my warning and uses it anyway, gets hurt and/or damages anything!

I determine the minimum chain slack (and therefore the chain slack adjustment range) required by the following procedure.
1) I put my bike on its centerstand or support it under the engine, Taking all precautions to ensure it is stable.
2) I remove a shock linkage which will allow me to lift the rear wheel/swingarm freely.
3) I block the rear wheel or swing arm in a position which puts the counter shaft/ swing arm pivot/ and rear axle, in a straight line (chains tightest position)
4) I adjust the chain to take out almost all of the slack (leaving a minimal amount say 1/8-3/16". I can feel it when it starts to tighten up, then I back off a bit) THEN I support the swing arm in that position spin the wheel to check for any tight spots. I adjust as necessary.
5) I tighten the axle and re-attatch linkage torquing all to specs
6) at this point I'll decide on the bike position/configuration that I will be checking the chain slack. e.g. on centerstand (probably best as its most consistent) or on the side stand.
7) I place the bike in that pos/config and measure the chain slack.

This measurement now becomes my minimum chain slack measurement "x".
When checking my chain slack (in the config I decided earlier) I keep the chain between x and x+ .4" (or x and x+10mm)

If I'm worried that "x" may be too tight I remind myself that as the chain warms up it lengthens slightly and the slack increases, but granted I would never want to run with too tight of a chain as it puts an incredible stress on the countershaft /bearing and can do some costly damage .....so..I add a mm or two. Throwing a chain on a bike with 6" of travel is not nearly as common as it may seem.
 
#19 ·
do it like this

The following is the procedure I use. I suggest no one else use it! I take no responsibility if someone else decides to ignore my warning and uses it anyway, gets hurt and/or damages anything!

I determine the minimum chain slack (and therefore the chain slack adjustment range) required by the following procedure.
1) I put my bike on its centerstand or support it under the engine, Taking all precautions to ensure it is stable.
2) I remove a shock linkage which will allow me to lift the rear wheel/swingarm freely.
3) I block the rear wheel or swing arm in a position which puts the counter shaft/ swing arm pivot/ and rear axle, in a straight line (chains tightest position)
4) I adjust the chain to take out almost all of the slack (leaving a minimal amount say 1/8-3/16". I can feel it when it starts to tighten up, then I back off a bit) THEN I support the swing arm in that position spin the wheel to check for any tight spots. I adjust as necessary.
5) I tighten the axle and re-attatch linkage torquing all to specs
6) at this point I'll decide on the bike position/configuration that I will be checking the chain slack. e.g. on centerstand (probably best as its most consistent) or on the side stand.
7) I place the bike in that pos/config and measure the chain slack.

This measurement now becomes my minimum chain slack measurement "x".
When checking my chain slack (in the config I decided earlier) I keep the chain between x and x+ .4" (or x and x+10mm)

If I'm worried that "x" may be too tight I remind myself that as the chain warms up it lengthens slightly and the slack increases, but granted I would never want to run with too tight of a chain as it puts an incredible stress on the countershaft /bearing and can do some costly damage .....so..I add a mm or two. Throwing a chain on a bike with 6" of travel is not nearly as common as it may seem.
Leave bike in garage

Go to bar and have a few drinks.

PS

I just changed my chain slack on centerstand from 2" to 1.5" - hell - I even installed a brand new cotter pin for my castellated axle nut (2007 Wee). And I sure as heck do not torque the axle nut to any large value.
 
#11 ·
Every chain I have ever had on any bike was adjusted at 1" to 1 1/2" of slack while cold, clean and lubed. I have never had problems and with a good quality chain it should last 20000+ with decent maintenance!
Do yourself a favor and dont skimp on chain, brakes, oil or tires!!
 
#14 ·
something like that:biggrinjester:
maybe a mad scientist
Having to regain control of a Lj36 after it lost positive lateral and longitudinal stability on a .7M climb out at FL 330 pretty much makes me a test pilot as well. I might as well throw in rocket scientist too as I used to make my own firecrackers as a kid. Now that I'm thinking about it I also hold a RHIOT card and have flown a 1975 Reinell v1900 off perfectly good water 20 feet up onto a log boom.:headbang:
 
#13 ·
I would just roll it around while on the center stand 'till you find the tightest spot half-way between the sprockets in the lower strand and adjust it maybe a tad loose. Take a measurement while on the center stand then lower it onto the side stand with the wheel in the same position and take another measurement and note the difference, verifying its not too tight per manufacturers specs. Do it the same way a few times and average those differences and use that as your center stand correction factor. The important thing is to find the tightest point in the running combination of the 2 sprockets and the chain so roll it around several times all the while checking the lower strand till you find the tightest point. As the chain and sprockets wear, the difference between the tightest point and the loosest point will become more pronounced.

The chain measurement while on the side stand is kind of nebulous anyway in my opinion as the swingarm may be in different positions (changing the alignment of the 3 axis points as previously mentioned) simply because of differences in suspension preload, or extra weight from add-ons on the bike.
 
#21 ·
yup



yes - that was a big factor in choosing the Wee
 
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