Lately, the bike is dying frequently when I am riding, and I let off the throttle and coast a bit, then pull in the clutch to shift down or stop. It runs fine, except for this and the idle seems lower than normal. Sensor/FI issue?
If you didn't bypass the clutch switch, the TPS is the most likely culprit on a 2007 or later 650. If running the throttle fully open to fully closed a few times with the ignition off helps for a little while, replace the TPS.
Oh, as a matter of fact, the clutch switch has been giving me problems, even after cleaning, and I did bypass it. Thanks, I will get a new switch on there.
How does the clutch switch affect the engine running?
The clutch switch position is one factor read by the ECM in the fuel injection setting on 2007 and later 650s. With the switch contacts closed or jumpered, the ECM appears to cause less fuel to be injected as the engine doesn't have any transmission load.
It depends on what you mean by daisy chained. It is not in a series of devices on a single wire that have to be in the proper position to pass current. It is a one of a number of devices connected to the ECM, all of which contribute to the information the ECM uses to allow cranking, run the fuel pump and determine the fuel/air mixture and spark timing.
also to add, tapping clutch wire to build a clutch relay for my cruise control was also a bad idea, even though it was purely used as an input wire - makes no sense (to me) but it somehow caused the same issue as described,
Luckily, a clutch relay is apparently not needed. I have yet to hear of a Strom that doesn't turn off the cruise control promptly when the clutch lever is pulled. There is a bit of an rpm rise but it is short lived and not excessive. Both the CCS-100 on my Wee and the Rostra on my Glee behave nicely.
I think I'm going to replace this item on my '07 Wee. The bike was dying quite often upon clutch lever pull-in, and I improved the connection at the clutch switch, which I thought had completely fixed the problem, but the bike died again a few days later. I think it's dangerous to ride like this - letting out the clutch lever while entering a wet-road curve - with the motor not running - could be bad...
Looking at past threads this is reported to be about a 30-minute operation.
It appears that, ideally, I'll need :
New TPS
Torx security tool
Device to plug-into electrical connector plug to easily and safely enter the "dealer mode"
Anything I'm missing ?
Not sure I understand the RPM (?) levels that are discussed, but maybe that will be more apparent when I get into dealer mode.
(Thanks to all past and present who've made this easier for us noobs via your very helpful posts...).
The dealer mode device is a paper clip or short piece of wire. It shorts a white/red wire to ground so even a bare wire is safe. In a normal condition, the dealer mode will display a -C00 on the dash. the leading dash will raise to the top of the display with more rpms. I would go for 1800rpm on a 1000 and 2500rpm on a 650. Ballpark close is fine. A slight move results in a big change. A steady rpm at the change point has to be held for about a half second before the dash reacts.
Regarding the "dealer mode" device, I believe I saw in an earlier post (of yours, I believe) that there's a relatively inexpensive purchased item (w/ Suzuki p/n) that can be used. I'll search for and find that p/n and order that item - I'm all for idiot-proofing, especially when I'm the one doing the work. :yesnod:
I'll do more searching for related information on this forum before I attempt this work. I might have to come back to the well though..
yes, can confirm clutch relay not needed - sudden rise in RPM killed the CC instantly.
I bought the connector from Jim @ Eastern Beavers over 2 years ago thinking i would make a proper switch- and i still havent - the wire trick works a treat - so dont bother
Is the issue you have diagnosed likely the same issue in a 1000? I rode from St George, UT to Las Vegas (about 2 hrs) to catch a flight for work at the beginning of the week. When I got into town (about 1 hr 45 min or so) a little traffic built up and I pulled the clutch in and thought "hey, I think the engine just died." Sure enough, I looked down and the red light for oil was lit up as usual when I turn my key to the on position when I am getting ready to start the bike up. I pressed the ignition button and it started up. This happened several more times unless I revved the bike to high RPMs while clutch level was pulled in.
The other startling thing was that when I slowed down from about 70-75 mph to anything less (even 55-65 mph), the bike began to lurch dramatically. I thought the bike was going to die right on the freeway. I had to limp along, riding at high RPMs to make it to the freeway. I stressed all week that I wouldn't make it back when I returned. I am happy to say the lurching didn't occur, but the engine did die when I realized I had missed a turn off in Vegas and got off the freeway (I pulled the clutch lever in to cruise down the off ramp and engine died).
I'm pretty new to the strom...just picked it up about 1.5-2 months ago.
The Vee doesn't have the same problem as a 2007 or later Wee. The clutch switch can be bypassed if desired. If the idle is set at about 1200rpm as it should be, the usual problem with a failure to idle is the TPS.
Thanks for clearing that up. Is there a way to know if the tps is bad other than replacing it? Based on what I described, is what happened to me likely the tps? Was it because it was so hot where I was riding, or do they just go out at some point? (The bike has 26k miles)
TPS failures do often seem heat related. Replacement is the only way to tell for sure but running the throttle between its stops a few times with the engine off sometimes fixes the problem for a very short time after that if the TPS is a problem. Just make sure the idle speed is not too low first.
I appreciate the recommendation. If heat is an issue, I worry I bought the wrong bike. I just picked up this 2007 vee (the Vee is the 1000 right?) Not too long ago and live in southern utah. This is my first summer here, but I understand it gets up in the hundred and teens. Its already over 100 degrees F this week. I hooe I don't have to park the bike all summer. I don't want to ride a lot in blistering heat, but across town to work and back wouldn't be horrible.
What about the lurching. If that occurred during the same ride as the engine stalls, is it likely tps related as well?
Heat only becomes an issue over time. TPS replacement may be required statistically more often in hot climates but it's still about years in between and more bikes out of a total number. Most will not need replacement over the life of the bike. Lurching is usually about lean fuel mixtures. Check the sticky posts in the DL1000 forum.
I am grateful for your input. Its nice to know there are people out there willing to help.
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