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post #1 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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Rebuilding questions

After my little cartwheel in northern BC, I have finally started to pick up the pieces. I've already received my new hepco & becker panniers, got a fancy new vstream on the way as well as a front rim with all the spacers, wheel bearings, axle, etc. I also repainted the tail rack in bed liner today and it looks very good. However, I did notice some things that I need some help on:

The left hand side brake reservoir fluid is empty. See photo:



I traced it to this thing here, which I think has something to do with the clutch??



1) Why would it be empty? Is it possible that it could be leaking?

2) What sort of fluid do I put in there? Brake fluid?

3) Like I mentioned, I got the front wheel on order along with the spacers, wheel bearings and axle. What sort of grease should I put in there? Any trick to installing the bearings? They seem to just drop into the hole of the rim?

I did order a service manual also, but I think it will get here last and I can't wait

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post #2 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 01:51 AM
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That is a hydraulic clutch reservoir, not a brake reservoir. What you fill it with is cast into the lid. A leaking clutch slave cylinder is the typical cause of loss of fluid.

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post #3 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Greywolf, it says brake fluid on the lid but I guess it didn't make sense that it led to the clutch. Not the mechanical type. I guess I have some more repairs to sort out...

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post #4 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 09:03 AM
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With all due respect, safely piecing together a bike following a serious crash is in the category of very advanced mechanicking.

If you're "not the mechanical type" you might be able to reassemble something resembling a motorcycle, but making sure it's actually safe to ride is on a whole different level.

You may want to get some qualified local assistance with this project. A leaking hydraulic clutch system is the least of your troubles.

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post #5 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
With all due respect, safely piecing together a bike following a serious crash is in the category of very advanced mechanicking.

If you're "not the mechanical type" you might be able to reassemble something resembling a motorcycle, but making sure it's actually safe to ride is on a whole different level.

You may want to get some qualified local assistance with this project. A leaking hydraulic clutch system is the least of your troubles.
Thanks for the help. Obviously, not being the mechanical type does not mean I'm a retard. Instead it just means I don't have a background in it. I have learned a lot since I got this bike and I enjoy it. I have obviously had the bike assessed as to whether it was worth repairing and concluded that it was worth only a few things that required replacing. I'm not going to state the obvious and include all that every time I ask for help. I don't think it would be that interesting to read.

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post #6 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:20 PM
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In my vintage New Yorker tact

He is saying there may/probably be more bent
forks, triple tree, frame etc that may compromise safety
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:22 PM
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The bearings are greased and sealed. A shop will install for around 1/2 hour labor. You can do it also using a correct sized socket to drive them in. Drive against the outer race only...not the inner. A little grease around the outer race of the bearing eases assembly into the wheel hub. If they (bearings) are tight, drop bearings in freezer first for a few hours and leave wheel out in the hot sun. I put grease under the dust seals, anything will work, but I use Bel Ray, waterproof grease. Regrease the old axle and make sure it is straight. If new axle...grease it up good so it doesn't rust.

Clutch has been answered. Find your leak if applicable. A new clutch slave (the bottom one) cylinder complete is not too much money or replace the seal only.

If your f. wheel got damaged I would look very closely at the forks/triple clamps and probably loosen and let them reseat themselves again. Retighten. There is a procedure for doing this so the forks will not bind.

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Last edited by Scott E. Bonds; 07-24-2012 at 02:26 PM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:52 PM
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Use DOT-4 brake fluid for your clutch and brake. You'll need to bleed them if they're completely dry; a tool like a Mity Vac is helpful to suck the fluid through is a big timesaver. As for why it's empty, follow the hose all the way to the engine and see if there's a break or disconnect.

There's threads on the site on replacing the wheel bearings; unfortunately they don't drop in. There are special tools for removing and reinstalling the races and seals. If you've never done this before, you may want to take the wheels to a shop for this.

Go hakafugu yourself.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw View Post
In my vintage New Yorker tact

He is saying there may/probably be more bent
forks, triple tree, frame etc that may compromise safety
Already checked and perfectly straight. If they were bent, I would have likely just parted the bike out. Too expensive to change all that on a 2007.

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post #10 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doetwa View Post
Already checked and perfectly straight. If they were bent, I would have likely just parted the bike out. Too expensive to change all that on a 2007.
Just an FYI: bent wheels can be straightened for a fraction of their replacement cost. There's 4 shops in my area alone who specialize in it. And, they repaint them as part of the process, my front looks and rides like new after getting it fixed. $180, 2 days in the shop!

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