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richw 04-09-2012 01:03 PM

HID for $75 but can-bus
I get that this is some kind of addressable BS electrics but would it get in the way of just wiring it in ?

I vaguely understand that it permits microcontoller operation (BS) but does it REQUIRE some digital signal generation to run a can- bus thing?

55W Xenon HID Can-bus Ballasts Headlights Kit D2S/D2R/D2C 12000k

greywolf 04-09-2012 02:06 PM

I believe it is Can-Bus safe, not that it requires a Can-Bus but the little red connector does look suspicious where other kits just have a relay. That being said, the color temp and wattage would steer me away. 35W HIDs are significantly brighter than halogens and 55W HIDs will draw attention to their illegality as well as cause scatter beyond the ability of the reflector to control it. 4300K provides the most light per watt. 12,000K it just about into the purple range, will really draw said attention, has less light per watt and turn fog into a brightly glowing mass your eyes have no chance of penetrating. How about Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit Wholesale Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit HID Conversion Kits Car Lights HID Xenon Car Headlights Bulbs Ballasts at competitive prices [VVME-HKB93-DSL] - $70.99 : VVME.COM, Tattoo Kit, Xenon HID Kit, instead.

richw 04-09-2012 04:09 PM

That is a better deal and yes color should be around 5K

Fyrman 04-09-2012 04:12 PM

I installed a set this winter, as recommended by GW and love them. Easy install and great light output. +1 for GW's link.

John2290 04-09-2012 10:09 PM

While you are on HIDs; I had a thread about intermittent light failures; my questions about which components were most likely the culprits were addressed but I'm still reading HID threads old and new;
I pulled up the link on the $75 CAN bus HID's and it look's like the connectors between the ballast and the bulbs are the same as the kit I bought from; any of you know if that is a coincidence or are the connectors now standardized;

And if you happen to buy a kit with the standard ballast (and I am certainly not recommending it) there is just enough room to tuck them in (laying flat) just above the headlights; there may be better places but that was only one I could find that did not cover anything up;

greywolf 04-09-2012 11:16 PM

All the HID kits I've seen have the same connectors. I originally bought Futurevision lights and VVME ballasts fit right on.

John2290 04-10-2012 07:46 AM

Good to hear; I was thinking once you picked a kit you were stuck with buying parts from that manufacturer or getting a whole new kit; the last kit I bought prior to this was in '03 for a 650gs; the connectors on the bulb don't match anything; even the ring that holds the bulb in the head light housing had to modified with a dremel tool to make it work; had not occurred to me that any standardization was going on!

jdubyap 04-10-2012 08:47 PM

I put a set of these in my truck. Pricey, but I feel like projectors are the way to go if you're converting to HID. I'm considering putting a set on the Strom as well.

Definitely more work, but I'm extremely happy with the results.

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S) - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

Flying Pig 04-10-2012 09:50 PM

OP, your link states that they are DOT approved. I call bullshit. :thumbdown:

I didn't know the strom had any special CAN-BUS requirements. I went with a set of cheap DDM Tuning HIDs since I wanted to save some wattage for other auxiliary lights. DDM has certainly changed in the last few years, but the product itself still works, so as long as you're willing to wait for shipping from overseas, their price is pretty hard to beat.

The big question is if you want to get the high/low version of the H4 bulbs or give up low or high beam. Others can probably chime in as I used to have high/low's on my R6, but noticed that switching from low beam to high beam didn't alter the light output on the road much because the reflectors weren't designed for the HIDs. Ended up swapping to projectors down the line so all was good. On the strom, I have just the lowbeam lights, but I've wired them into the high beam plug so I have the light on my dash when my HIDs are on and flicking them to low beam gives me an extra 70 watts of available power. I have 2 other pairs of auxiliary lights so I'm not too worried about losing the light produced by the HIDs if I'd rather have the power for other stuff :beatnik:

richw 04-10-2012 10:33 PM

I thought that there was a solenoid that moved the element in and out to affect high and low

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