Here's my reply from the "Is A Wee Strom Plush" thread:
Originally Posted by AndrewG
Nobody has mentioned the rebound damping adjustment on the rear shock. Adjustment of this will also affect the degree of jolt transmitted to one's rear.
Not really. Rebound damping controls how fast the shock extends AFTER being compressed. Too little rebound damping results in a pogo'ing feel. Too much rebound damping doesn't let the shock extend fast enough to follow the road and will cause the shock to pack up if you hit multiple bumps in a row.
The usual cause for the sharp jolt is too much compression damping. Basically the shock is trying to compress faster than oil can be squeezed through the internal holes/valves, so it hydro-locks (binds up, stops moving) and the rest of the jolt pushes the rear of the bike upwards. That's where the getting launched out of your seat sharp jolt comes from.
The forks and shocks on the Stroms do not offer any adjustment for compression damping. I have fully adjustable suspension on my sportbike and added a nice Penske to my Triumph. Being able to tweak compression damping is very important to me. I can soften it for the bumpy roads in PA and easily firm it up for track days or twisty blasts in WV.
The best option is to have suspension that offers both high and low speed compression damping adjustments (high end Wilbers, Ohlins, Penske, etc). You can set the low speed compression damping fairly firm for good feedback, yet keep the high speed compression damping at a value that lets it soak up those sharp-edged hits that cause the jolts.
As you mention, damper forks are a real PITA because all you can really do is fiddle with oil weight and level. It's hard/impossible to find an oil weight that will give a nice controlled ride on smooth pavement and not hydro-lock on a sharp hit. Race Tech emulators attempt to solve this and rumor has it they do a pretty good job, but you're still polishing a turd.