Buying Crashed 1000 Questions? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Buying Crashed 1000 Questions?

I was thinking about picking this crashed V-Strom DL 1000 up on Monday and was wanting to know from you guys familiar with this bike what questions I have not asked that I should and what you think I should watch out for. Any advise would be great. I am used to working on bikes and currently ride a KLR I just don't know anything about the Strom yet. I promise to start reading! Thanks! And Please don't any of you go get it while I am stuck at work this weekend!

Link: 2002 Suzuki V Strom / DL-1000 (damaged)

This is the e-mail correspondence I have had so far with the guy.

Me:
I am interested in the bike but would like to know what it will need to fix the crash damage and speed and type of crash it was involved with. The only thing I can see from the pics is the broken wheel and scratched plastics. How many miles? Is the engine and tranny operating OK? Has the bike been listed as totaled with DMV or insurance? Salvage title? Please give me more details.


Him:
An Olds Bravada jumped in front of me an hit the brakes which broke the wheel and the bike went down on concrete at about 50. The damage photos I provided are the worst stuff I can find on it. Broken front fender, scraped up pegs, bar ends and mirrors. Bag on that side kept the damage down and it evidently slid on only the left side and didn't flip. 28,000 miles and change. Not salvage title and not listed anywhere as totalled to the best of my knowledge. No damage to the engine from the crash, so it ran the last I checked it out, but that's been awhile and I haven't tried to start it since June. Too busy to mess with it. I intended to fix it over the winter, but I need the money for more pressing things and I will miss it.

Me:
How are the forks after the crash? And did you keep up with all the scheduled and preventive maintenance?

Him:
The forks appear to be fine. The left one has a slight rash at the lower end of the tube, like a pencil eraser used for the first time. All normal maintenance performed. New chain and sprockets last season. Regular oil changes with Mobil1. Almost new rear Avon on the rear and even newer Avon on the front. I've always kept it in my garage and covered it at work, and you can tell to look at it.

Me:
Based on the info you are providing would I be correct in saying that if we put a new front wheel on it it would be rideable and that all other damage is cosmetic?

Him:
You would have to be the final judge of it. As I mentioned, I haven't devoted a great deal of time going over the bike, but I'd say that your statement accurately reflects my personal assessment of the damage.

Thanks again guys!!! I am looking forward to a stable mate for my KLR
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post #2 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 01:16 PM
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One general comment of note, there were some significant changes with later models that you might want to think about. From what I understand there are more accessories available for the 04 and newer models.

I don't think just hitting the brakes broke the wheel. He had to most likely hit something with it. On the plus side, a lot of things that are damaged you might have ended up swapping out such as mirrors, windscreen, etc. with different options.

In general the damage doesn't look too bad but you need to make sure the frame is straight. I think the asking price is too high as well compared to the risk you are taking. I'd wouldn't give over $1,500 for it. You could possibly just buy a front wheel and shoot some paint on it and have a decent bike (possibly) for under $2,000 assuming nothing else is really screwed up. I saw a 03 in my area that was really clean go for $3,200 with no damage history and a few farkles.

Without seeing the bike in person or with better pictures it is tough to say. How are the chain and sprockets as well as maintenance history?
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 01:26 PM
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I would assume that the forks are bent and need to be replaced. Breaking a wheel requires some major impact.

I would certainly have a look at it, but just as certainly not give the asking price.
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 02:42 PM
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To counterbalance the "it must've hit something" crowd...

It is possible for hidden flaws, especially in castings (such as aluminum wheels), to cause catastrophic failures.

I've had parts that "should never fail" break, twice, in cars when I hit the brakes hard. Both times were on public streets with vehicles that were fairly recent (not decades old) but had been driven long enough to find any obvious defects. Both vehicles were properly maintained.

Once a drum brake cylinder split during a hard stop, releasing hydraulic pressure on that half of the brake system. The teardown revealed a flaw in the casting which would not have been visible from the outside.

Another time a (cast steel) brake disc broke free of the hub during a hard stop. As a result the wheel's brake was effectively disabled.

Neither of those failures should have happened...but they did. Both happened when the brakes were hit hard, and both were failures waiting to happen for tens of thousands of miles. In my case neither of those failures caused an accident....but in different circumstances they could have.

It doesn't seem impossible that this bike's wheel had a casting flaw or other stress riser of some sort which finally resulted in a catastrophic failure during hard braking.

That said, I'm in the "$1500 is probably a fair price" camp.
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 03:09 PM
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uh oh

Uh oh, a craigslist link.

I would talk him down a couple of hundred and then pull the trigger on this.

It is an odd break without a lot of damage in the area....I say it failed under stress.

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DayTrippin View Post
One general comment of note, there were some significant changes with later models that you might want to think about. From what I understand there are more accessories available for the 04 and newer models.
Thanks for the help guys. Is there a place I can read up on all the changes/upgrades that happened to the 1000 from year to year. 2002 was the 1st year the bike came out right? Is there some problems with this older model I need to watch out for? Sorry to be such a newb. I am trying to learn quick but finding the info is not easy.
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedicDB View Post
Thanks for the help guys. Is there a place I can read up on all the changes/upgrades that happened to the 1000 from year to year. 2002 was the 1st year the bike came out right? Is there some problems with this older model I need to watch out for? Sorry to be such a newb. I am trying to learn quick but finding the info is not easy.
Hi,
This may help.
DL1000 Through the Years!

Being the owner of an wrecked 03 (very close to an 02), I would buy another in a minute. Check your PM.

Art in Edmonton
14 DL650
03 DL1000 SOLD
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post #8 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I just found this on Wiki

2003 (K3) Added fork pre-load adjusters. Alternator output increased to 400 watts. New Clutch Slave cylinder dust cover, later production models.
2004 (K4) Redesigned instrument cluster. Upgrade 16-bit to 32-bit ECU, some sensors changed. New turn signals, 20 watt without reflector compared with earlier 10 watt. Belly pan redesigned. Stronger hand guards attached to end of handlebar. New adjustable windscreen design. Left handlebar switch incorporates flash-to-pass & emergency blinkers (EU models already had this). Stronger handlebars. Revised Mirrors for less mirror breakage.
2005 (K5) Silver Frame revised to Black frame. Black rear frame covers vs previously fairing color. New quiet clutch cover. Headlight interrupt when starting.
2007 (K7) New clear turn signal lenses and new swingarm pivot covers.


It does look like the older 2002 is missing some nice options but I would imagine that after riding my 93 KLR 650 for the last few years it would still seem like a huge upgrade. Not that my KLR is going anywhere. With both I think I would have the best of both worlds. One for dirt days one for street but both capable of the transition when needed.

This purchase is prompted as a solution to my constant urge to go put a deposit down for that new $14K 1200 Yamaha Super Tenere. The cheap side of me wont let me do it but I still want a new/bigger bike.
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post #9 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 03:47 PM
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Where are the craigslist police? That link is clearly a threat to the forum :angel_26:

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post #10 of 21 Old 10-15-2010, 05:46 PM
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If you run heated gear/grips, the bigger alternator would be nice. Living in Colorado you'll need to decide that one but I know where I'd land. If you go with it and want to add a lot of accessories that need some power, get the Eastern Beaver headlight cut-out to free up about 55 watts or so.

Get some Aprilia Tuono mirros to replace the stock damaged ones (I'd be glad to sell you my old stock mirrors :-) ) and cruise fleabay to get the parts to make it whole again.

As for the possible casting flaw, I'd prefer to believe (for my own sanity) that it was an impact. I'd hate to think of my wheel failing under load while braking from 100 mph into a turn. That would tend to ruin my day... I agree that there is a slim chance and I have seen it on other items but I'd hope Suzuki had better QC than this. I would have thought the wheel would have locked up first and then no more torque would have been on the wheel.
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