Noise From the Rear - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Noise From the Rear

Rear of the bike, that is. Seriously, I've been hearing this kind of shrieking sound like running a knife through an electric sharpener coming from the rear area. I hear it most at high speeds and it kind of comes and goes but is present a lot. It must be the brake, right?

Riding home yesterday on the freeway, even with a helmet of wind noise I hear the sound. Like sharpening steel. I got home and put bike on the center stand. The rear wheel spins okay, the caliper isn't frozen, but there is an unven amount of drag on the rotor during each revolution. and the rotor was very hot. The fronts were not hot at all. The rear rotor is not chewed up and the pads are quite worn but I do see some meat left on them.

Any ideas as to what is going on? Do worn original pads make this kind of noise? I can also mention the chain and both sprockets were recently replaced, but the sound was noticed even prior to that. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 10:36 AM
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Rotor warped, rear wheel misalignment, rear wheel bearings shot, rear axle not torqued down.

These are the things I'd look at. Also check your brake pads for uneven wear.
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 10:43 AM
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ALL STROMS have the loudest chain/sprocket noise I have ever heard.......and there is always seems to be a "bit" of drag on the rear brake, you sure your chain isn't shot, or too tight/loose?

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post #4 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 10:48 AM
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Check to see if you lost any bolts that secure your chain protector. It could start flappin' round at freeway speeds and making some noise, if one of the two mounting bolts has "disappeared" - happened to me when I got my Strom.

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 11:13 AM
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If your rear disc was hot, then the pads are dragging...not disengaging properly for whatever reason. This can warp the disc and make the problem worse. I'd check the stuff that's already been menitioned above, and, that the pads are moving freely in the caliper.

If you are ok with spannering a little (this isn't hard), slip the caliper off and clean up the pads and springs that the pads press against. Often the pads stick on the springs and the locating pins that go through the locating lugs on the pads. I take mine off at least every 9 months to clean up and I often use a little (almost none) silicon grease on the tips of the pad where they locate on the springs and pins. This can attract more dirt, so if you do that make sure you dismantle and clean regularly every few months. The alternative is to put them back dry which is more the norm. However, I find the silicon grease makes the pads slide like a knife through butter, very smooth and no dragging at any time.

If you don't do spannering or feel confident to mess with brakes, take it to your dealer or a competent friend. Just don't screw it up as your life may depend on it.

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post #6 of 13 Old 09-29-2010, 12:28 PM
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I agree with all the suggestions. Two things that could be dangerous I'd check first: 1) Bearings: two in the wheel and one in the sprocket carrier. 2) Brake. Unless you're working that brake hard it shouldn't be hot to touch. I'd tend to clean the pads and caliper and the piston surface that is exposed to the outside world. I'd also flush the fluid "forward" out of the caliper until it is absolutely clear. That way you push any debris/dirt out of the caliper and away from the master cylinder.


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post #7 of 13 Old 10-04-2010, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Inspected the rear pads yesterday. Huge case of looks normal to me. The pads are well worn, but sufficient meat left. And I'm real happy the pads swing on that little rod instead of falling right out. I had enough of a puzzle seating the caliper back in place until I noticed the pad tangs needed to lodge into the little steel slider gizmo.
The wheel spun a little more smoothly when I was done.
I also checked the chain adjustment marks on both sides and they are even.
Does that verify an aligned wheel?

I also lubed the rather dry looking chain real well but I don't see how that could be the shrieking noise because that would not explain the hot rotor.

Riding today despite a real cold morning here in Wisconsin. Will keep my ears open.

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post #8 of 13 Old 10-05-2010, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lrobby99 View Post
...I also checked the chain adjustment marks on both sides and they are even.
Does that verify an aligned wheel?
For wheel alignment, measure from the base of the frame where the swingarm pivot mounts, to the center of the axle bolt. Do this on each side. Equal measurements should get you near perfect.


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post #9 of 13 Old 10-05-2010, 06:53 AM
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Less noise after taking off the rear caliper suggests the rear brake pads are not releasing properly. Could be the the piston is sticking due to the pads being worn and the piston moving further out into the gungy area. I would suggest you disassemble the rear caliper, inspect and clean it up...you may as well replace the pads at the same time and be done with it.

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post #10 of 13 Old 10-05-2010, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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I have the distinct feeling you hit it on the head. Makes perfect sense. Not a "Stuck" piston, but a piston sticking way out and hanging up on return.
Let's see, brake pads, tires, battery. Paging Santa Claus, paging Mr. Claus...
THANKS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by StromTech View Post
Less noise after taking off the rear caliper suggests the rear brake pads are not releasing properly. Could be the the piston is sticking due to the pads being worn and the piston moving further out into the gungy area. I would suggest you disassemble the rear caliper, inspect and clean it up...you may as well replace the pads at the same time and be done with it.

2018 1000XT, black. The Night's Watch. Givi engine bars, rear wheel mud guard, radiator screen. Givi V56 Litre Monokey topcase. Puig screen. Freeway Blaster horn. Speedohealer. SW Motech guards for R. brake reservoir, R. brake cylinder, exhaust pipe valve. Aprilia Tuono mirrors. GPR exhaust slip-on.
2006 DL1000, The Red Rhino. Gone for good.
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