How to damp a home-made manometer? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 09:03 AM
steve68steve
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How to damp a home-made manometer?

I've got the cheapo home-made U-tube full of 2 stroke oil for balancing the TB's.

I've only done it once, and while I was successful it's only because I recruited my neighbor to help: as soon as I started the bike, the "strong" TB starting pulling the oil quickly up one side of the tube. There just wasn't enough time to get to the side of the bike, get on the screw, and start making adjustments before the oil was cresting the top bend of one side of the "U" and getting potentially sucked in to the TB.

Is there an easy way to dampen the response on a home-made manometer? Maybe as simple as pinching the tubes above the fluid with a clamp or something?

I'd like to check it again this weekend.
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 10:22 AM
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That would probably be the best way... keep a pair of vise grips handy in case the oil gets a little too far to one side...

Or, maybe don't fill it as much? That might allow it to suck an air bubble through instead of the entire column of oil....

Or use a thicker oil? Maybe some 80/90 gear lube instead of 2-stroke oil? Maybe some chain saw bar oil?

If it sucks it in, it's not the end of the world... It'll burn through the engine and shouldn't hurt a thing. It won't smell nice, and the engine may load up a bit (in which case, I'd take it out for a brisk ride before continuing to burn off any excess) but I wouldn't be worried about it.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 10:52 AM
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Longer tubes, maybe?

My MotionPro manometer has tiny orifices that go inside the tubes to restrict the flow. They are just brass inserts with a small hole drilled through the center. Outside diameter is large enough to plug the hoses, and the inside diameter is about 1/16" or so.

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post #4 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoecam View Post
If it sucks it in, it's not the end of the world... It'll burn through the engine and shouldn't hurt a thing. It won't smell nice, and the engine may load up a bit (in which case, I'd take it out for a brisk ride before continuing to burn off any excess) but I wouldn't be worried about it.
I use two cycle oil, and I've had the bike suck it out. Nice cloud of blue smoke, and the engine stumbled a bit, but no big deal other than that. Kind of pissed me off more because it takes a while to get all the air bubbles out of the mulletometer when refilled.

OP, you can always shut the bike off, make an adjustment, then restart the bike and see if that's better. Putting a small spring clamp on the hose might also work.

If your TBS is that far off, you're going to be impressed with your bike when you get it worked out.

[I]If you're not moving forward, you're probably in somebody's way![/I]

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post #5 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to go the vice-grip route next time.
post #6 of 8 Old 08-21-2009, 08:38 PM
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You could put tees in the top parts of the tubes making up the U of the manometer, with a valve connecting the two tees. Open the valve when starting the bike or when the balance is far off, and close it down for final adjustments?

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post #7 of 8 Old 08-22-2009, 03:54 AM
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I originally built my "carb-sync" tool when I had my V Star 650; the trick was to use an old carb jet in each side of the tubing. They work like a charm and dampen the flow enough so that you can easily sync the carbs or throttle bodies. Mikuni jets work great and are cheap to buy.
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-22-2009, 04:04 AM
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Wack, I use about 10 foot or so of line, using a loop of about 2 foot filled with ATF, and have never had an issue with it sucking it up. Sometimes when it is far off, it starts to, but all that empty tubing buffers it pretty well.

Doing a TB sync is pretty annoying anyway, I've yet to get it dead on and keep it there. Probably the nature of the homemade jig. I've got a inline 4 suzuki now too, can't wait to have to do that one.. hehe.
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