StromTrooper banner

Big guys and stock suspension?

9K views 40 replies 21 participants last post by  Motor7 
#1 ·
I weigh 250 and noticed on an Africa Twin there was plenty of front-end dive. Going on a forum I was told that I'd have to have springs replaced. Didn't notice this on a BMW, but that of course has other issues.

What about the V-Strom? I've never ridden one, but the specs and reviews are great. Plus I have an old friend who still raves about the 650 he had years ago.

Cheers,
pete
 
#2 ·
Compared to some other cycles, the V-Strom 650 / 1000 have a 'big frame' IMHO, so either engine size should have plenty of room for you 'with some mods' to the 'Golden Triangle' where you contact the cycle: feet / butt / hands.

There are several discussions on here about spring rates / measurements / adjustments / custom builders.
 
#3 ·
The front suspension on the DL650 is antiquated damper rod fork technology. Yes you will experience front end dive in stock form no matter what your weight is. The fix is to add so aftermarket internal valving like Ricor intimidators. I had 2 DR650 (same fork tech as the DL650) at the same time. I put Ricors in one and Gold Valves in the others + sprung and fork oil properly for my weigh and riding styles. The Ricor's did a much better job at reducing front end dive whereas the GV's were better off road.


Depending on the BMW you had if it was a telelever that is why you did not notice front end dive as this suspension set up really does a great job at mitigating it.

Back to the DL to get the most out of the front end I'd look at:

Springs to suite you weight riding style
Right fork oil
Internal valving
Fork brace
4 Pot calipers

Then once the front reworked you now most likely notice the rear is deficient and it too needs reworked.

DL's are great bikes in a lot of ways, mostly cost of entry. They are inexpensive to buy new or used and this appeals to lots of folks. The problem is once folks ride them a little they realize the shortcomings and then spend a fortune trying to correct them or to bring the bike to a higher spec. It is also common to buy farkles a little at a time so spread the costs out over a long timeframe making it seem not so bad. But it all adds up and in the end a lot of times they'll will have spent more trying to get the DL into the modern era vs just being a higher spec. bike to begin with. Its not hard to buy a new DL and then add $3,000 or $4,000 dollars to it trying to grab the golden ring.
 
#5 ·
It is also common to buy farkles a little at a time so spread the costs out over a long timeframe making it seem not so bad. But it all adds up and in the end a lot of times they'll will have spent more trying to get the DL into the modern era vs just being a higher spec. bike to begin with. Its not hard to buy a new DL and then add $3,000 or $4,000 dollars to it trying to grab the golden ring.
$6062.20 Canadian loonies into farkles for mine ;) And I could probably still add another $2,000. I'd like the MC Cruise control system, center stand, skid plate and chain oiler.
 
#4 ·
Plan on spending at least $2,500 on suspension.

You could also consider some bikes with electronic suspension like the Africa Twin Adventure Sports 1100 or Versys 1000 LT SE+.
 
#34 ·
I spent about $1,300 on Cogent Dynamics rear shock and DDC kit for the forks and installed everything myself. I'm 230 without gear and the stock WEE suspension was way too soft. Rides great now. As far as electronic suspension, I also have a 2016 BMW S1000XR with Dynamic ESA and it rides great for the most part but, after riding the WEE with properly setup suspension the XR feels a little harsh even in road mode. In dynamic mode, the XR on the track was wallowing when pushed hard. Factory suspension will always be a trade off whether its electronic or not. If you are on the heavy side you should definitely consider setting up the suspension for your weight.
 
#8 ·
Manufacturers set up suspension for an "average" rider, 170 lbs or so. So yeah at 250 the springs should be replaced to get the sag in the proper range.

You don't have to spend a lot of money though. You could just put heavier oil in the forks and crank the preload on the shock. Ride the bike for awhile and see if you can live with it like that.

You could throw money at the bike sure but it's perfectly serviceable as is. Depends on your background. I was coming off a KLR 650 when I got my 650 Strom. It was a big upgrade in power, brakes and suspension!
 
#9 ·
Doesn't the KLR use damper rod forks? If so how are they different from the DL650 ones. Heavier weight fork oil and springs in damper rod forks only address part of the equation. A fixed hole in a damper rod is extremely limiting. Inexpensive to produce but bit ineffective in it ability to adjust to the ever changing conditions.
 
#15 ·
Sadly

The telescoping tube front suspension is highly prone to 'brake dive'. Stronger springs and better damping will mitigate it to some degree, but getting it stiff enough may adversely compromise ride quality. So you get to/have to choose where you stand on that. So long as it doesn't 'bounce', isn't really a problem (except as a pet peeve). Probably a bit more pronounced when the center of gravity is higher ('Strom) and the rider is sitting higher (ditto). Doesn't help for emergency braking, obviously, but in normal riding, being a bit smoother on the brakes (add and release force gradually rather than sharply) will help.

Still need to put in stiffer springs to achieve the right suspension travel/sag, of course, if you shop at the big and tall section.
 
#18 ·
The telescoping tube front suspension is highly prone to 'brake dive'. Stronger springs and better damping will mitigate it to some degree, but getting it stiff enough may adversely compromise ride quality. So you get to/have to choose where you stand on that. So long as it doesn't 'bounce', isn't really a problem (except as a pet peeve). Probably a bit more pronounced when the center of gravity is higher ('Strom) and the rider is sitting higher (ditto). Doesn't help for emergency braking, obviously, but in normal riding, being a bit smoother on the brakes (add and release force gradually rather than sharply) will help.

Still need to put in stiffer springs to achieve the right suspension travel/sag, of course, if you shop at the big and tall section.

Damper rod forks are prone to brake dive cartridge forks not so much. Damper rods are a compromise, no progressive hydraulic action. You can mess around with them installing progressive springs and varying weights of oil but....

installing cartridge emulators like the Ricor Intimidators go a long way to mitigate fork dive. Certainly they aren't as nice as a full cartridge setup but for a couple hundred bucks they noticeably improve the forks. I had them in my 650.
 
#19 ·
petek - I agree with all the sentiment here, but the end game is what you are comfortable with. Being a larger fellow I'd say that if you buy new and have the suspension setup as best the dealer can, you'll be quite pleased with the bike.

If you buy an older V-Strom from a dealer, have him setup the suspension for you. If it comes in at or close to the recommended sag it'll be a good rider as well. If not, you know what has to be done.

If the dealer cannot setup the suspension for you, maybe go to another dealer, although I submit that a lot of dealers are probably not asked to do this and you may get an odd reaction.

If you buy an older V-Strom privately, no guarantees.

New or old, you will probably spend money on extras. Lowering foot pegs, handlebar risers, aftermarket seat, and the likes.

My research indicated that the V-Strom was extremely reliable, bought my 2012 in Toronto late August this year, did some minor maintenance - oil change and such, then rode across Canada to home here in Victoria BC - performed flawlessly.

Don't let the banter here put you off buying one of these. It's like everything, once you buy and start riding you will find something that you would like to improve.

The information/opinions given provide you with good starting points. What costs $1K in the US could cost us here in Canada say $2K to $3K CDN, just the way it is.

Good time to buy, last of the season. Good luck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: petek
#20 ·
  • Like
Reactions: tenny80
#22 ·
This is a two up bike - as long as you're not hauling a pillion and a ton of gear the stock suspension will be just fine.

I never understood why people freak out so much about the suspension of longer travel bikes actually traveling. If you're not bottoming out every once in a while you've got your settings way too stiff.

Let it work like it's designed to.
 
#24 ·
I too was in a similar situation. My last touring rigs were a


2000 Moto Guzzi Quota - Terrible wind noise and erratic fuel mileage. Replaced buy:

2006 DR 650 - Added racks, pelicans and f/r suspension work and a big tank. Comfortable but chewed up rear tires + it just wasn't the best bike out there for what I wanted. Replaced by:

2012 DL650 - New seat HT pannier racks, pelican swapped over, new seat, 2 different windscreens, center stand, crash bars, fork brace, Oxford heated grips, different handlebars, handlebar risers. Then when faced with suspension upgrades and still anemic power output I started looking and it was replaced by:

2006 R1200GS like new low mileage, factory Vario luggage and 99% stock. Stock seat, handlebars, windscreen and it fits like it was made for me. I was so used to farkling bikes in the past to try and get them to fit me I even tried on the GS, Bought an aftermarket seat and it was nowhere near as nice as the stocker. Same with the windscreen. I prefer the stock over the Givi Airflow. Aftermarket muffler vs stock I choose the stock muffler.

I then bought the 2007 R1200GS because of the screaming good deal and while the Ohlins are nice they are not head and shoulders above the stock shocks. I might change my opinion of them if I ever get them rebuild and sprung to my exact specs. BUt only time will tell.

I've had

3 DR 650
1 DL650
13 Guzzi's ranging from 1972 through 2012
4 Ducati's
2 Kawasaki's
1 Honda

And none have come close to fitting as well as the Hexhead GS does. There are bikes out there that fit you just have to be lucky enough to find them.
 
#25 ·
I'm happy wiht how the Vstrom fits, after spending about $1,000 on ergonomics. Seat concepts tall seat, peg lowering kit, handlebar risers, and windscreen. My issue is that I am an absolute sucker for a new bike lol. I've come back to the Strom 4 times now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2wheel dodgem
#27 · (Edited)
I had a 2005 DL650. I weighed about 240 back then. I really liked the bike a lot, but it the suspension was kinda spongy.

I put a fork brace on it (Adventuretech fork brace #1), Sonic springs in the front, (~$90) and a Wilbers shock spring (~$110) on the stock shock. Ran the rebound up full and backed off 1/4 turn. Put 10 wt oil in the forks.

That transformed the bike from a spindly legged dual sport into a proper sport touring machine. Very cost effective and very big improvements.

Can you do more? Certainly and cartridge fork emulators would have been my next step. However, I was so happy with the result I stopped there. Worked extremely well for about seven years. Might still be working well for he current owner.

Of course a progressive suspension shock can do wonders too. I have only had positive feedback on them. Come to think of it I have one at a special discount.
 
#30 ·
The AT is a long travel bike designed to be off road capable. It's going to have some brake dive. I'm sure it can be tuned out, starting with the compression adjusters, then maybe springs and oil. You may be a bit heavier than the target rider but it's the sag you should get right first, then look at the brake dive. Like someone said, the BMW has a good anti dive suspension with the telelever.
 
#31 ·
I weigh around 260lbs.

My 2008 DL-1000 didn't need any changes to suspension to cope with my weight.

Both of my Wees (2007 + 2011) needed suspension work. The rear shock just couldn't handle my weight and they wallowed around every corner. I ended up getting the suspension rebuilt and re-sprung by a professional motorcycle suspension mechanic for both the Wees. It fixed the wallowing but the suspension was never what I would call "good" and next time I suspect I will just DIY a heavier spring in the rear and call it a day. He also put some kndd of gold valve intiminators or whatever in the forks but I didn't notice any difference.
Every V-strom I have owned has had suspension worse than every other bike I've ever owned, even after getting them rebuilt. Having said that, I'm now shopping for my 4th vstrom, go figure. Might have to spring for one of them fancy Adventure Tech shocks next time.
 
#32 ·
I'm 265# and have a gen 1 Vee. A lot depends on you - how you ride and what your expectations are. Several big guys here say the stock suspension was fine for them. Me - I've never met a stock bike that didn't need some suspension work, simply because the suspension is originally designed for a much lighter person, and I do ride "spirited". My has stiffer forks springs and a revalve and a Penske rear shock. The stock suspension on the gen 1 was very lacking. I have ridden a friends 2012 Vee with oem suspension that was much better than the gen 1, but would still have needed fork springs at a minimum. My '02 gen1 is for sale (28k mi) if interested, all set up for someone your size.
 
#35 ·
I've got roughly $2500 spent on my suspension (ohlins rear / traxxion dynamics internals on the front). Bike handles amazingly and I'm a big guy (260lbs+) as well. I enjoy upgrading my bikes so it wasn't that big of deal for me. Honestly, the OEM suspension fit my needs as I'm no corner dragger but it really is much better now.
 
#36 ·
Hello Stromtroopers. I'm on my dl650 2013, put now 70k miles plus on it and love this bike. My only problem is the front suspension dive when two up and luggage (we do some mileage two up) I upgraded both ends in the past. The front - simple Matris FKE kit with stiffer and better linear spring and oil, only offers preload adjust though, the rear Wilbur shock. This upgrade sorted things for myself (when work luggage I'm kinda ok) Two up though, the front has not much travel left and I have to be very aware of the breaking as it dives to limits. Could you advice me what is the best way to solve it or improve it to a safer status? I can see this bike getting another 70k miles unless something major happening and if I get a next one with low mileage, I could use the upgrade then.

What are my options please?

A full cartridge?
Another fork plus different wheel (like swapping the whole front from dl1000)?

I'm also planning to change the front calipers for 4 pistons using some adapters but would be good to know if a compete fork swapp would be possible before I do it?!

Thanks a lot!

Best Petr
 
#41 ·
You need the forks sprung and valved for your weight. I do not know anything about a drop in enclosed cartridge. Since you have done that and are still not happy, I'm not sure a revamp is really going to help.

I don't know if a DL1000 front end will swap without a lot of work. You might be better off selling the 650 and getting a nice used 1000.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top