Hello Troopers! There are a number of LED threads and I was going to tag this on to one, but I thought it might be better to do it this way with a descriptive title. LED tech is in a high rate of improvement at this time and I think stuff available even one year ago has been significantly improved upon. This brand is avail on Amazon, $55, and came highly recommended for this price range from bulbfacts.com.
In short - I LIKE THEM!
Pics attached: Stock pic from Amazon with my doodles on it, one Halogen LO beam in Strom, one LED LO beam in Strom, one LED and one Halogen LO beam in my Xterra. Note on the two Strom pics, I tried to get the exposure the same to accurately represent the increased brightness of the LED. This was difficult, but I came close. If you look at the surroundings you can see that the LED pic is slightly less-exposed than the Halogen pic, so the increased brightness is even greater than it looks. That's why I included the Xterra pic.
I first tried them a couple weeks ago in my Xterra, type 9007. That car has kinda poor headlights, and these bulbs really helped that. I can't speak to reliability, but the performance is great. I attached a pic of the Xterra low beams with one LED and one Halogen; it's helpful because on a car the lights are far enough apart to distinctly see their beam patterns separately. We did a road trip, partially at night, and both my bride and I were duly impressed in real life.
Now on my 2005 DL650, I needed a headlight, as one hi beam was burned out. This bike has the best headlights of any bike I've ever owned, so I wouldn't say I felt I NEEDED more light like we did on the Xterra, but more is ALWAYS better, right? So what the heck, I was gonna be spending $12 on a new bulb anyway...
You can read the specs online, but the are rated at 12,000 lumens per pair and are fan cooled. I would have preferred no fans, but according to Headlightrevolution.com, cooling fans are not high risk failure points on LED bulbs. On the Gen 1 the bulbs are kinda protected under the dash and these units are IP65 rated for water splashing; hopefully that will be OK. They have the highly regarded CREE LEDs and position them very tightly and accurately to replicate the filament position of a Halogen bulb, very important for the reflector to work right for cutoff, etc.
One thing I want to mention. In the attached Amazon pic I circled the adjustment feature; you can rotate the bulb in the flange base, with detents at 45 degree increments. I can't fathom why this would be useful, since H4 bulbs are designed to orient a certain way, with the filament layout a certain way, and the little cup at the bottom facing upward. Rotating them more than a few degrees - and I verified this on the Strom - just makes the beam pattern jacked. That said, I don't feel that Nineo put the detents in quite the right alignment. The correct (and default) detent hole holds the bulb vertical, cup at the bottom facing up, with the vertical plane of the bulb "blade" aligned with the upper tab on the mounting flange. (It's not shown this way in the attached Amazon pic, but comes out of the box that way.) On my standard halogen H4's this was not quite the same; with that upper tab straight up, the bulb (non-adjustable of course) is rotated slightly CCW (counter clockwise) as viewed from behind the bulb, as when riding the bike. So the Nineo bulbs, in the closest detent, were rotated slightly CW. The beam pattern and cutoff were still good, but the cutoff was sloped a bit, higher on the left, lower on the right. This is backward for American roads...you want it level, or if anything slightly sloped the other way (lower on the left) because the oncoming traffic is on your left. (This may work in favor of those of you in left-hand drive locations.) I rotated mine slightly out of the detent to make the beam pattern slope slightly lower on the left, and there seems to be enough friction with the ball-spring to hold it in this position. We'll see if they stay put. Adjustment is a simple matter of grabbing the heat sink and rotating. I could also remove the mounting flanges and file one side of each tab to allow them to rotate in the headlight housings, but that would be a bit of a pain. I think the adjustment feature would be much more useful if it was designed to be a fine adjustment, rather than a 45 degree adjustment. Even if I put them in the detent, with the cutoff sloping slightly the wrong way, I think they would work OK; they'd still be very good for me, but the cutoff wouldn't be quite as optimal for oncoming traffic.
They did require vertical adjustment. I had marked my surface for the beam pattern with the old bulbs before removal. The rubber boots fit fine, just install the flange base first, then the boot over that, then insert the bulb into the flange base. They have a harness with a driver box, no problem on the Gen 1 Strom, plenty of room for them. I removed the dash and gages as access was SO much easier, and used double sided tape and zip ties to secure the drivers up under the lower dash brackets.
I took it for a short drive and was very pleased. I ride daily and often come home after dark, especially as the season changes, so I'll get lots of chances to use them soon. Fingers crossed for the longevity and that the rotation stays put.