Unbelieveable - A Dead Battery. - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

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post #11 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 08:08 PM
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So, is the battery really totally dead and bad? We are all keen on getting the rest of the story.


. and what GPS are you testing? They do have map mistakes and they can send you on a wild goose chase ;-)

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Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A
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post #12 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 08:30 PM
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Regardless of what Yuasa prints out--and I use Yuasa batteries in my bikes exclusively, testing rest voltage doesnt really give you the info you need to judge a battery.
In a flat-rate situation as I was in for 43+ years, I didnt have 20 minutes to test a battery, much less 2 hours.
Which is why I use testers to check the battery internal resistance. Typically, a car good car battery will have around 21 micro-ohms resistance, a good motorcycle battery will show around 7 micro-ohms resistance.
The tester uses this resistance reading to compute the current capacity of the battery. This capacity is the main point of interest.
The Yuasa catalog shows the battery and its rated Cold Cranking Amps. CCA is rated at 0 degrees F. Since I dont ride at 0 degrees, that number in itself means little, but I can use it for comparison testing.
For example The battery in my '14 DL1K is a Yuasa YTX-14BS, rated at 200 CCA. In AGM Battery testing mode for this specific battery, I measure 268 CCA, well above spec. My other tester tester reads 10.0 micro-ohms. This battery is 21 months old, has 7K miles on it, sits on a Battery Tender when not in use, and gets ridden regularly.
Another test is a dynamic instead of a static test: Battery fully charged, ignition and/or injection disabled, crank the engine for 15 seconds. The battery voltage should not drop below 1.0 VDC during crank.. A carbureted bike, disable the ignition and voltage during a 15-second crank should not drop below 9.6VDC.
The Yuasa test is similar to my Snap-on testers, much less expensive, and will tell you what you need to know.
With regular testing, a low reading even during what appears to be a normal cranking speed, will allow you to make your battery plans accordingly instead of cussing yourself or the bike out on the side of the road.
And even with all that, and meticulous maintenance... the battery decides when its number is up.
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post #13 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Tom View Post
I don't know if it is strictly true but this always sounded plausible: Way back when someone explained to me that the plates in batteries sulfate. The sulfate flakes off and collects at the bottom and builds up. When there is enough there is shorts out the plates and the battery is toast.

..Tom
This was the same explanation I received when I once asked a battery question of our Electronics instructor. He told me more about batteries that day than I knew there was to know. Naturally, I've forgotten most of the information he tried to pour in my feeble brain that day. But he was the only person that I've ever met that actually had an eidetic memory. He also said it's the heat that kills batteries but it's the cold that discovers the body.
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post #14 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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My thoughts are that the battery has shorted, as Tom and MAZ4ME suggest.
As I only have a 900mV tender (unused for years from my DRZ) and no full battery charger I am thinking of just replacing it. My reasoning is that I could buy a new battery for the cost of a charger and a battery tester, and if I took it into a shop for a free test I would then feel obliged to buy my new battery there, rather than buying the same battery on Ebay for $40 less.

I will jump it first though - just in case, as Bikehigh suggests, there was an overnight drain on the battery.

As to the recreant GPS I can only assume that there must be a setting that needs to be adjusted to keep me solely on major roads. So far I have only used it locally as a map. It uses the same iGo software as my Jeep GPS which has always worked fine both on trips and to locate destinations. There must be a setting between the two units which is set differently.

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post #15 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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He also said it's the heat that kills batteries but it's the cold that discovers the body.
Historically I have always noted that cars have starting problems in very cold weather, not that is an issue for me now in Queensland.
From now on temperatures in my garage will regularly get to 36-42 degrees C. during the day (96-108F.)

2010 Weestrom; 2017 Kawasaki Versys-X300; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100
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post #16 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 09:30 PM
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Brockie, that would be a 900ma (.9amp) tender.
I use a Batter Tender Plus on each of my 3 motorcycles,rated 1.25 amps. 1.25A isnt that much more than the 1/10 amp/hr rating of the batteries in my CB750K, ZRX1100, and my Vstrom1000. I use a Battery Tender Junior, rated at .75A for the battery in my riding mower, and other bikes I service with a 9 amp/hr battery rating.
The Jr will charge/maintain all of the bikes, it just takes a bit longer with higher-capacity batteries.
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post #17 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 09:39 PM
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Pretty likely

If a normal 'wet' battery is discharged to 1.3 volts, it is almost certainly 'dead'. If you manage to recharge it to a reasonable voltage (unlikely) it will die again the next time you try to start it. Get a new battery.

Talking to other people, it sure seems like batteries are more apt these days to die suddenly, on bikes and cars. Back a decade or so, batteries would usually give you some warning, cranking slower and slower before they finally gave up the ghost.

On the other hand, starting newer vehicles is much less strenuous on batteries. With modern ignition and fuel injection, it is rare to crank an engine for more than a couple of seconds, and most start in the first second or two. So maybe we don't notice the battery deterioration until it is far advanced, because we're not putting that much load on it.

Usually I get 5 or 6 years out of my car and bike batteries. But I don't use them every day, and I'm careful to top up the charge before starting if they've been sitting for a bit.
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post #18 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Perhaps I should get a battery tender working on both bikes as they sit a lot more during mid-summer anyway. I have not bothered with battery maintenance much since batteries became sealed.

Today is heading for 99F, Monday 102F, Tuesday 100F, and Wednesday 101F. Maybe some rain on Thursday. An early taste of things to come.
https://www.google.com/search?q=weat...ient=firefox-b

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Last edited by Brockie; 11-03-2018 at 10:12 PM.
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post #19 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 10:25 PM
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@Brockie same thing happened to my battery. One day it worked fine, a day or two later it was toast.

Regarding battery tenders, I hear everybody using them, but I put a new AGM battery from Autozone into my KLR and never once had it on a battery tender. Often, the bike would sit four or five months and never be started, but it always started fine. Only time the battery ever died was when the stator went out out in the middle of Kane Creek in Moab - I killed the battery trying over and over to get it started and trying to diagnose the problem trail side. Obviously this is just one persons story, but that battery is still going strong 6 years later.

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post #20 of 24 Old 11-03-2018, 11:40 PM
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I really dont think you can compare the cranking, ignition, and injection loads of a fuel-injected Twin to that of a carbureted Single of the same displacement.
Ive also been on many rides where an owner's charged his battery beforehand, it started the next morning just fine... and croaked at the lunch stop. Kinda puts a damper on the whole day for everybody on the ride. Why put yourself in that position if you dont have to?
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