Broken Engine Guard - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Broken Engine Guard

Hello all,

I just purchased a 2015 V-strom last Tuesday. I did a 2 day trip with it and logged 1,000kms. About half way back today, I started hearing a very brief buzzing noise that occurred just under 6,000rpm. It was not much and didn't seem too bad -- I figured something was loose and I'd check it when I got home.

When I got home and washed the bike I found the engine guard was broken. Is this common? I'm wondering why this would happen? Can it be repaired? I'm pretty sure this is the stock engine guard -- it looks like the SW-Motech guards -- are they the same as the stock bars (or vice-versa)? Does anyone know if I can purchase just one side of the engine guards?

I need to get this repaired (if I can) or replaced but I'm more concerned about why it broke more than anything else.

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post #2 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 01:10 AM
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The bike is pretty clean, and that's good. Did you buy it (2015) new? If so I'd be talking to the bike shop.

I'm not sure what they make those bars from - from a cost perspective I would imagine they are mild steel. Mine are OEM, not the same as yours but similar. Mine are not stainless nor aluminium (test with a magnet if you like).

If they are mild steel, you could get it welded. There is a very small chance they are tempered, and that would make welding a problem. As long as the metal is not a difficult temper and in good shape, a weld can be a sound solution.

The location of the break might indicate that the fit isn't great, and there's been considerable stress at the 'T' joint there, so check on fit before you reassemble.
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post #3 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, Scott.

I did not buy the bike new but the previous owner kept it immaculately clean. I'm not sure what the bars are made of -- I'm assuming mild steel. Where it's broken, the bars don't line up -- pulling them to where they line up moves the bars a bit more than 1/16th inch so I would guess that you are correct and that it's an alignment issue when they were installed. There are 20,000kms on the bike -- seems a bit strange that they would last this long before failing.
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post #4 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 07:51 AM
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They are "easy" to weld. Mild steel, not tempered. The perfect way to do it would be to vee out the edges and put a steel dowel inside the tubing that is a tight fit centered on the crack. Then weld so that the steel dowel gets penetration. Won't break there again. Not sure if that is SW Motech, but the clamp does look like their design. I have SW Motech on my'12 and they are not made like your picture shows.
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post #5 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Shelby, when you say "Vee out the edges", I assume that you mean to grind the edges at an angle?
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post #6 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Another related question -- I was going to put highway pegs on this bike and was looking at clamping them to the crash bars. Has anyone here done this? Has it worked without problems? I'm a bit reluctant to clamp them to the bars after seeing this happen.
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post #7 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 09:48 AM
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They crack due to vibration and yes misalignment or poor mfg out of spec, I would just re-weld it. The cross-over in front is where the source of most engine guard vibrations occur. That it apart and use some type of material to keep the connecting ends of the bar from touching each other....scrap inner-tube, or heavy duty rubber washers. Some guys also remove the engine guards and install rubber washers behind at all attachment points, then then re-install.

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Last edited by Motor7; 08-22-2017 at 09:52 AM.
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post #8 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 10:11 AM
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Breaks usually happen near welds at the area where weld heat changes the crystal structure to be different from the adjacent area that never got that hot. It would be nice if manufacturers would heat the entire unit after welding to relieve the stress areas but that would cost money. Re-welding powder coated tubes would put me off. There are other reasons why I switched to frame sliders but those are included.

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post #9 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Greywolf, I'm a bit new to this -- frame sliders? Included where?

Last edited by StuckOnEarth; 08-22-2017 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #10 of 30 Old 08-22-2017, 01:25 PM
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You'll be able to edit once you get to 11 posts. It's an anti spam measure.

Frame sliders extend to the side of the frame and have no welds.



My old Wee had frame sliders and engine guards. In one drop, the sliders only needed a Delrin plastic end to be replaced and the engine guard was barely touched.


Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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