Brakes dragging/heating up rotor. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes dragging/heating up rotor.

General question since the rear braking system is similar/same between all the models, but anyone got a good idea on what else to look for on dragging rear brakes?

Noticed after a chain/sprocket change the rear wasn't spinning really free. Took everything apart, doubled checked, greased, tripled checked alignment, looked at the master cylinder, greased the pedal and made sure nothing was bound up or seized. Just got back from a big trip so going through things was on the menu anyway.

Everything looks good, I can see the brake pads release when I let off the pedal, but apparently it's not quite enough. Piston pushes in and out pretty freely (took one gentle squeeze of my compression tool). It's still sluggish to spin by hand and a short ride heats the rear rotor up to too-hot-to-touch.

The only thing of note is the pads are on the end of their life and I have new ones ordered but I've never had a set drag before on this bike (09 Wee). Hose failing, delaminating maybe? I've had that in cars where it'll create a check-valve of sorts and keep a brake engaged.

I changed fluid last winter & re-bled the system, have put 6k on it without issue and the resevoir looks clean and the fluid is where it's supposed to be (halfway between the fill marks).

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post #2 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 03:22 PM
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New Mexico concrete mud is likely the culprit.

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post #3 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 03:37 PM
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Are you sure the caliper is properly positioned in the retaining rib on the swingarm and not under or over it?

If you are sure it is I would take the pads out to make sure there is nothing there that does not belong like a rock or whatever else may have found its way in between the pads and the piston or back bracket.

If the system was without problems before wrenching its not likely anything hydraulic causing it, you did not use it and unlikely been able to damage it.
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
Are you sure the caliper is properly positioned in the retaining rib on the swingarm and not under or over it?

If you are sure it is I would take the pads out to make sure there is nothing there that does not belong like a rock or whatever else may have found its way in between the pads and the piston or back bracket.

If the system was without problems before wrenching its not likely anything hydraulic causing it, you did not use it and unlikely been able to damage it.
Went through the mechanical/caliper with a fine-tooth comb...no debris or anything rubbing or out of place. Assembled it and disassembled 3 times to re-affirm it wasn't alignment or something stuck in there. If I pull the pads up and off the caliper, the caliper pushes in and out evenly and smoothly by hand....so no binding. The piston is clean as a whistle...no debris or binding there.

The rear tire is aligned about as good as I can get it (I have the Motion Pro tool), the rotor looks good, the pads look worn but every evenly and there's nothing gritty or messed up on them.

I took the pedal off and cleaned/greased it too, but it was pretty clean to begin with and snapping back to "home" very firmly. Didn't make a diff.

I'll re-bleed and give the hydraulics some attention when I get my pads and change them and see if that makes a diff.

Stumped tho. Never ever had a problem with the Strom's brakes on any of my bikes.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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New Mexico concrete mud is likely the culprit.
The rear was spotless, believe it or not. Still a good coating of grease on the bolts.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 06:28 PM
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I think I have read about a similar problem in the past but can't remember what the cause was. Just odd that there appears to be all over sudden a problem with the hydraulics whilst nothing was done to them.

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post #7 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 07:38 PM
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You seem to have the bases covered. New pads and another flush would be my next step. High humidity could put enough water in the fluid to make it boil or it may be easier to cock the pistons in the bores when they are extended. Do you have the #16 insulating pads installed?

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post #8 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the #16 insulating pads installed?
Yessir, they're on the rears.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 11:44 PM
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I had the same thing happen to my Wee and after going over the system heaps of times I decided there could be nothing wrong so I ignored it.

A month later there was no problem so I can't be any help to you.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-17-2017, 09:06 AM
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Pull the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and make SURE the vent hole is open in the rubber seal and cap.

Beyond that about the only thing that causes a rotor to get that hot is because the pads are not retracting enough. But, it sounds like yours move freely. I don't think new pads will change it, but since the pistons would be in a different position that might make a difference. I would probably pull the caliper and remove the piston for inspection. Wouldn't be surprised if there was some corrosion or dirt....
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