Let's talk chains, sprockets and tools - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

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post #1 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Let's talk chains, sprockets and tools

Forgive me Greywolf if this has been brought up before, but I didn't see it.

Chain - 525
Front Sprocket - 15t
Rear Sprocket - 47t
Pressed master link (not clip type) recommended

Anyone have any preferences as far as chain break/press tools?

I developed a pretty nasty racket when accelerating in 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. (worse than the normal "lug knock") Looked at the chain and while none of the links appear to be frozen, the rollers are real sloppy. The bike only has 18k miles on it, but I think I'll replace at least the chain to be safe. (still deciding on the rear sprocket as it still looks new with no sign of wear, although I'll probably replace it as well)

2013 White Glee...farkles added daily.
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post #2 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 08:21 AM
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https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...=chain+breaker

This works fine, just don't extend the pin out too far or some guys have bent it. The only thing I found it needed was a stop to put the backside of the rivet on, so I took a regular bolt and dimpled the face with a drill bit. The bolt drops in the hole opposite the pin with the head & dimple facing the pin so when you are flaring the other end of the rivet you cant accidentally push the rivet through. I have used it several times now with zero issues.

Oh, and a micrometer comes in handy to measure the amount of flare so you know when to stop. Measure before and after flaring the rivet.

15 DL650XT
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Last edited by Motor7; 08-03-2017 at 08:23 AM.
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post #3 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...=chain+breaker

This works fine, just don't extend the pin out too far or some guys have bent it. The only thing I found it needed was a stop to put the backside of the rivet on, so I took a regular bolt and dimpled the face with a drill bit. The bolt drops in the hole opposite the pin with the head & dimple facing the pin so when you are flaring the other end of the rivet you cant accidentally push the rivet through. I have used it several times now with zero issues.

Oh, and a micrometer comes in handy to measure the amount of flare so you know when to stop. Measure before and after flaring the rivet.
The pin that pushes the old link out also is used to mushroom the new one?

2013 White Glee...farkles added daily.
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post #4 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 09:05 AM
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Yes that is correct. I don't bother using it to break the chain even though it works fine for that. I keep a side grinder with a metal cutting blade on it in my shop so I just cut the chain off(after removing the front sprocket...makes things much easier).

15 DL650XT
"You do your own thing in your own time"
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post #5 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 09:07 AM
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That's a breaker only, not a riveter. I was very happy with a clone of the DID rivet tool. Part # 35-0006 at https://www.mikesxs.net/mikes-chain-and-sprockets.html
It was only $17 when I got it but the present $47 is very competitive. You'll need to find instructions online for the DID chain tool to know how to use it. That and a grinder to take the old pin down to side plate level before pushing it out are all you need for chain tools. It's very easy to break off the push pin otherwise. In fact, using a grinder to cut the chain is a good option.

The dies used in the tool assure proper placement when pressing on the side plate and spreading the rivet. Rather than just a punch to flare the rivets, another die face on the opposite side of the pin provides a cavity for the rivet end to fill. I've only used DID chains but I don't see why it wouldn't work on other brands.

Another option is to use an EK chain with a screw link that doesn't need a tool.

I'd have no problem with a clip link that requires pressing on the side plate but that will require a chain tool and silicone seal to best keep the clip. I'm wary of clip links where the free plate just slips on by hand except for emergency use.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #6 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 09:23 AM
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I purchased the RK chain tool based on reviews and feedback for my first chain install.

Makes the process almost foolproof. The backing plates pretty much prevent you from over-flaring the rivets, although the first time I was very patient and checked them with digital calipers after every eighth to quarter of a turn to make sure I didn't do too much.

If you think you're going to be doing chains for a while, or have other chain bikes, and want to use a rivet master link, buy a quality chain tool once.

https://sprocketcenter.com/rk-univer...xoC5N4QAvD_BwE

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post #7 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 09:37 AM
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I too use a clone of what I think is either the DID or Motion Pro tool. Includes breaker and riveter pieces.

Motorcycle Bike Chain Breaker Splitter Link Riveter Repair Set Riveting Tool | eBay

When I bought it the auction title was "Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool Set for Motorcycle Dirt Bike ATV Cam Chains NEW" but you can find it under a variety of titles. It's the one with the red plastic box.

I also grind the old rivets off with an angle grinder or file to prevent wear on the breaker tool.

When riveting the new master, definitely remember to use the Devo energy dome looking piece to avoid pushing the pin out. I know a guy who forgot it, and screwed up his masterlink only to replace it 5k miles later after it started kinking.

Speaking of which... I highly recommend EK's chains with a screw-on masterlink. Only costs a little more, and worth it for the convenience. You can change a chain on a trip without the extra tools, as long as you remember to size it first.
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post #8 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 10:19 AM
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I used the tool sold by Cycle gear twice now and have had no issues. Try and get it on sale. Then again it always seems to be on "sale" but at $39ish it's been good for me. I also grind off the old pin to make removal easier and minimize breakage of any part of the tool.
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post #9 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 10:33 AM
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I bought a knock-of one on amazon and it has worked great. I broke my harbor freight one on it's first use, the metal of the pin adapter shattered and it was clearly cast and polished, which is completely incorrect. The one I bought off amazon that had shiny pin adapters, which led me to believe that they weren't cast, and sure enough, they are not cast and haven't broken with several uses. I think it was about $40 as well.

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post #10 of 26 Old 08-03-2017, 11:01 AM
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I got this one from Cycle gear

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...rivet-tool-kit

I've used it twice now, so can't complain. However I only used it for riveting. I take my dremel cutting wheel and cut the chain off

As for what chain and sprocket, I use the Driven chain and sprocket kit
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/r...-sprocket-kit/
Spec and Old Time Rider like this.

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Last edited by Bowtie2bimmer; 08-03-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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