When to replace a chain - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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How can I determine if chain needs replacment?

I bought an 05 wee with 20,000 miles on the odometer last friday and was curious as to how I can tell if the chain needs replacing. I am not sure if its ever been replaced but the sprockets still look great and are not worn in the least bit. I dont want the chain to break and endup busting the case or damagin other components.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!
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post #2 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:03 PM
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If you see red dust, kinks in chain, or at the rear sprocket try and pull the chain away from sprocket...if you can pull 1/8th" away, she's done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeB5ZraUeYQ
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post #3 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:07 PM
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I'm sure there are lots more folks lots more qualified to answer your question, but I would replace mine it is rusty; if the links are kinked; if it can no longer be adjusted; if an o-ring is bad; if it is making lots of noise; if it is wearing the sprockets...

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Engine Guards; Bash Plate; Centerstand; 1" Bar Risers; Adjustable Lowering Links; OEM Top/Side Cases; EB Headlight Relay; OEM Handguards; Fork Brace; Piece a crap Windscreen; Broken Shift Lever (Tap/Bolt/Duct Tape); New Tires (but I coulda run on that plugged rear another 4k)
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post #4 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeUeR View Post
If you see red dust she's done.
I thought this just indicated that it has not been properly maintained and in need of cleaning and lubricating, not necessarily replacement

'08 Yellow DL650

Engine Guards; Bash Plate; Centerstand; 1" Bar Risers; Adjustable Lowering Links; OEM Top/Side Cases; EB Headlight Relay; OEM Handguards; Fork Brace; Piece a crap Windscreen; Broken Shift Lever (Tap/Bolt/Duct Tape); New Tires (but I coulda run on that plugged rear another 4k)
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post #5 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:16 PM
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All the tips for spotting a dying chain are good, and here's another...

Adjust it to spec: bike on the sidestand, 20 mm to 30 mm (0.8" to 1.2") of slack when you push up on the chain in the middle of it. Be sure the chain is running straight off the rear sprocket; don't trust the marks on the swingarm for alignment. Put a dab of antiseize paste on the axle nut and torque to 58 lbs-ft.

If you need to frequently re-adjust the chain to hold this spec, the chain is wearing rapidly and near death. The measurement along 21 pins (20 links) of chain should be less than 319.4 mm (12.57"), but this is tricky to measure right, and the other methods usually work better.

Unless the previous owner put on new sprockets, the old sprockets are worn. Maybe not enough for you to spot without a new one for comparison, but they are wear items.

A simple rule of thumb for lubing the chain is every other tank of gas, except every tank in the wet or in gritty conditions. There are a dozen or more favorite chain lubes--no consensus favorite.

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Last edited by PTRider; 03-20-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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post #6 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTRider View Post
Put a dab of antiseize paste on the axle nut and torque to 58 lbs-ft.
Maybe my memory is failing, but thought it was supposed to be 82.5 lbs./ft.

'08 Yellow DL650

Engine Guards; Bash Plate; Centerstand; 1" Bar Risers; Adjustable Lowering Links; OEM Top/Side Cases; EB Headlight Relay; OEM Handguards; Fork Brace; Piece a crap Windscreen; Broken Shift Lever (Tap/Bolt/Duct Tape); New Tires (but I coulda run on that plugged rear another 4k)
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post #7 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:32 PM
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almost every time I get on my bike, I probe at the chain by trying to lift the slack with my toe, I never adjust, probably never gets adjusted between tire swaps and never needs it, but toward the end of its life, it becomes sloppy, very obvious just probing with your toe without even bending over, so you adjust it, 50 mile later, it needs adjustment again , chain is toast



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post #8 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 12:41 PM
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Once, a beautiful shoe saleswoman said to me when I visited Toronto; "I could know a lot about someone just looking at their shoes"... I think this can be applied to a motorcycle chain too. :mrgreen:

I have seen many clean bikes but with dirty chains, rusted or completely dry ... itīs important not only to maintain it lubricated but also clean, in fact, before lubricating the chain is best to get it cleaned first. Doing this takes time and is not a very nice job (most of the times) but itīs the best to have a healthy and lasting chain.
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post #9 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumbleV View Post
I thought this just indicated that it has not been properly maintained and in need of cleaning and lubricating, not necessarily replacement
Loose red dust comes from rust on the pins and bushings. Rust attached on the outside of the links isn't as bad but loose and red means the chain is toast.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #10 of 28 Old 03-20-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the great advice, it helps alot.
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