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post #1 of 42 Old 04-14-2008, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Oil Drain Plug question

I was performing my first oil/filter change on my DL1000 today when I ran into a snag. I decided to use my new torque wrench to tighten the the drain plug bolt to 16.5 lb/ft. The angle I was holding the wrench combined with my inexperience of the tool, I way overtightened it to the point it stripped and loosened up:mad:. There wasn't a crush washer attached when I removed the bolt, just a small washer that was the same diameter as the bolt. Thin pieces of metal were stuck into the threads, and when removed, it didn't make any difference.

I ordered a new drain plug bolt and crush washer from my Zuk dealer and hope I didn't do permanent damage to the threads inside the oil pan. Any advice/reassurance is appreciated.

Joe - DL1000K4
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post #2 of 42 Old 04-14-2008, 10:24 PM
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Yikes....that doesn't sound good, that is why I don't trust allot of torque wrenches.:rolleyes1: You may need a helicoil or self tapping oversize drain plug, I think this is another good option too..... http://www.timesert.com/

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post #3 of 42 Old 04-14-2008, 10:41 PM
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The plug is steel and the case is aluminum. It's the case that gets stripped, not the plug. A helicoil or similar replacement is in your future. That was the crush washer you saw. It gets crushed to that size.

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post #4 of 42 Old 04-14-2008, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdad View Post
I was performing my first oil/filter change on my DL1000 today when I ran into a snag. I decided to use my new torque wrench to tighten the the drain plug bolt to 16.5 lb/ft. The angle I was holding the wrench combined with my inexperience of the tool, I way overtightened it to the point it stripped and loosened up:mad:. There wasn't a crush washer attached when I removed the bolt, just a small washer that was the same diameter as the bolt. Thin pieces of metal were stuck into the threads, and when removed, it didn't make any difference.

I ordered a new drain plug bolt and crush washer from my Zuk dealer and hope I didn't do permanent damage to the threads inside the oil pan. Any advice/reassurance is appreciated.
I don't know what size torque wrench you used, but torque wrenches are most accurate in the 80% and higher of their range. The most accurate wrench to use for a 16.5 ft.lb.(198 inch lbs.)torque value is a 30-200 inch lb. wrench. They are usually a 1/4" drive. If you used a 1/2" drive torque wrench or a 3/8" drive that has a max torque rating of 100 ft. lbs., that's where you'll get into trouble.

Like Greywolf said, it's helicoil time.

Edit: You might want to put a little gob of wheel bearing grease on the end of the bit just before drilling through. Also use some on the tap. The little bits of aluminum will stick to the grease. Flush well with engine oil by pouring into the filler hole up top before inserting the drain plug.

"Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life." - Confuseus

Last edited by jackpiner57; 04-14-2008 at 11:00 PM.
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post #5 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackpiner57 View Post
I don't know what size torque wrench you used, but torque wrenches are most accurate in the 80% and higher of their range. The most accurate wrench to use for a 16.5 ft.lb.(198 inch lbs.)torque value is a 30-200 inch lb. wrench. They are usually a 1/4" drive. If you used a 1/2" drive torque wrench or a 3/8" drive that has a max torque rating of 100 ft. lbs., that's where you'll get into trouble.

Like Greywolf said, it's helicoil time.

Edit: You might want to put a little gob of wheel bearing grease on the end of the bit just before drilling through. Also use some on the tap. The little bits of aluminum will stick to the grease. Flush well with engine oil by pouring into the filler hole up top before inserting the drain plug.
It indeed was a 1/2" drive. I would have been better off with a short wrench and going by feel rather than placing my faith in that torque wrench. I'll do a search for "helicoil" and in the meantime pray the new bolt holds. Thanks for the advice.

Joe - DL1000K4
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post #6 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 01:21 AM
 
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post #7 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bikerdad View Post
It indeed was a 1/2" drive. I would have been better off with a short wrench and going by feel rather than placing my faith in that torque wrench. I'll do a search for "helicoil" and in the meantime pray the new bolt holds. Thanks for the advice.
You're welcome bikerdad, good luck. You'll be back in the saddle in no time. Here is a link to a good deal on a decent quality calibrated torque wrench for the smaller fasteners on the bike. I use this one for the brakes and triple clamp bolts, drain plug, cam journal holder bolts, or any fastener up to 16.5 ft. lbs. http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-850...8233611&sr=1-1

"Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life." - Confuseus
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post #8 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 06:48 AM
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I own 3 torque wrenches but I don't use torque wrenches on drain plugs. 1/2" drive on an oil drain plug that just needs to be snug is a disaster waiting to happen. I've seen so many of these threads about stripped oil plugs, but how many have we seen where the oil plug fell out while riding down the road? I can recall only one and that was from a dealership that probably never even tightened it down at all. Leave the torque wrench to fasteners that need it. My $.02
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post #9 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 12:44 PM
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I've heard of this way too many times. People think that they are doing the right thing and try to torque everything. I've found 1/4 tools and short wrenches to be very useful on MC's.

Good luck with the helicoil!!

Roger ('14 Tenere ES, COG 5903)
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post #10 of 42 Old 04-15-2008, 02:25 PM
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I'm not saying that an appropriately sized wrench and the good ol' calibrated arm is a bad way to go, but one assumes that the factory specifies a torque value for the oil drain plug for a reason. Personally I use a 0-200 in-lbs beam-type torque wrench when tightening my drain plug - then I know that it is neither under or over-torqued. I'm fine with using my finely calibrated arm for non-critical fasteners, but I consider the drain plug to be fairly critical - too easy to strip if overtorqued, and you really don't want it coming out unexpectedly.
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