Stripped out socket head bolt--fixed - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-20-2014, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Stripped out socket head bolt--fixed

As many of you have experienced, one of the M8 allen head bolts holding my Givi engine guard was pretty ripped up.

I am replacing my guards and had to get the stripped bolt out. And allen head bolts often get torn up so I decided not to fear and fret over this anymore.

Went to the hardware store and got a set of fluted extractor tools and some fresh high end drill bits to go with them.

For the M8 bolt on the engine guard, I used a #5 fluted extractor tool (and a 17/64" drill). Easy, worked real well.

Drill out the head, put the fluted extractor in it, tap it in with a hammer, and then turn the tool (I used a two handle tap holder tool) slowly and the bolt backed out real nice.

2002 DL1000
Madstad and Screen, Enduro Skidplate, Barkbusters, Hyperlites (front and rear), 17/43 sprockets, Reemis Exhaust, PCIII, Speedo DRD, OEM Heated Grips, Fork Brace and Lowered Pegs (AdventureTech), Givi top and side cases, Givi Engine Guard
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-21-2014, 12:14 PM
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I had a similar experience recently when changing handlebars and the head of the screw that holds the left mirror mount twisted off. Went to Lowe's and got an "easy-out" kit. Worked well, and the replacement screw I got there is a higher quality item, as well.

'09 DL650
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-21-2014, 12:40 PM
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This might be a good time to mention two things about the bolts on the V shaped engine mount bracket bolts. One is later years of Wees and all Glees have a stupid amount of thread locker on them. I'd stick a soldering iron in the hex center for couple of minutes to try to soften the stuff before trying to remove them. The other is the torque spec in the manual is wrong. It should be 16.5lb-ft instead of 25.5lb-ft.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-22-2014, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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I recall your numerous posts about the torque and was careful to not over torque the bolts (they are too soft for the higher torque for sure.

The soldering iron trick is very good as I bet a large amount of stripping of socket head bolts could be avoided if the Loctite is loosened up.

2002 DL1000
Madstad and Screen, Enduro Skidplate, Barkbusters, Hyperlites (front and rear), 17/43 sprockets, Reemis Exhaust, PCIII, Speedo DRD, OEM Heated Grips, Fork Brace and Lowered Pegs (AdventureTech), Givi top and side cases, Givi Engine Guard
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-22-2014, 04:23 PM
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Definitely a lot easier and more direct that a heat gun. Thanks!

04 DL650
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-22-2014, 06:53 PM
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Those butane pencil torches they sell at Harbor Freight are perfect for the task. Used one to loosen up the thread locker when removing then secondary butterflies on my Bandit. Many other uses too. Works as a portable soldering iron even.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-22-2014, 08:54 PM
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Rant on locktite...it's not your most welcome friend. Often over used.
I used propane torch on a friends steering head to get the bolts loose. That silver looking paint, on his bike, never blistered. The bolts finally came out reluctantly.
Manufacturers now build stuff to not come apart and to be worked on by those specially trained techs at your dealer.
That pencil heat tool is a really good idea that will save a lot of cursing. I'd think one of those old cludgey solder irons that you stick in a fire might work.
Was the solder gun used by GW the 120V pistol type...about 100 watts?
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givi crash bars , givi engine guard , stripped bolt

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