Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Washington, the state
--Bike on the sidestand, middle of the lower run of chain, lift & lower the chain very lightly. 1" to 1-1/8" lift is just right.
--Adjust the chain to the spec, then sight down the chain over the rear sprocket to be sure it runs straight off the sprocket. Don't trust the marks on the swing arm.
--Put a dab of antiseize paste on the rear axle threads, then torque the nut to about 58 lbs-ft. This is less than the book calls for, but with the antiseize you won't have seized threads.
--Good rule of thumb is to lube every other tank of gas, or every tank in the wet or in grit.
--Not much cleaning is needed. If you want, just a wipe with a dry rag is OK. Never, ever run the chain under power and get near it with a rag or your hand. It will cut off your fingers if they get between the chain & sprocket. Ditto for a power-off wheel spun by hand.
--Or, ask your local bike shop which lube they sell that doesn't make a big mess.
--Good for 20,000+ miles if lubed.
--If you can pull slack in the chain at the 3:00 position on the rear sprocket, or if there are stiff links, or if you see rust coming out under rollers, it's time for a new chain.
--The master link is riveted. You'll need a rivet tool. Cheap ones from Cycle Gear or Harbor Junk work OK a time or two. $100 tools work great. Cut the old chain off or grind off the rivet head & push out the pin--don't try to push out the head.
--Any top line o-ring (x-ring, etc.) chain from any good chain maker is good. Size is 525. Length is 118 links.
--Renew the sprockets at the same time you renew the chain.
"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.
"Let each of use properly whatever strengths he has and strive to use them well. If he does this, he will never find himself lacking."
Marcus Tullius Cicero