2012 DL100 Adventure luggage issue - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-06-2014, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Columbus, Oh
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2012 DL100 Adventure luggage issue

Purchased a 2012 DL1000 Adventure last February. The top case would not open last week and when I removed the key, the tumbler came out. It appears some type of lever/arm came off along with the retaining bolt. I took it to the dealer who took some pics which they are sending to Suzuki. Six weeks out of warranty but hopefully they'll help me out.
Anyone else experience any failures? The retaining straps (shoelaces) on the side cases have broken and I replaced them with cables.
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post #2 of 4 Old 04-06-2014, 07:47 PM
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My cables lasted just a few trips. I haven't had any issue with the cylinder and tumblers....yet. I have read where others have had issues.
These are not the best quality cases but work great to break a fall.

2012 DL1000 Adventure (Tinkerbell)
PC-V, TRE, CR8EIX , ECM, K&N, RDL, PR4, PC-8, EB H4, WERKS, Madstad 22", 17/43 gearing, AdventureTech: Fork brace, shelf, mirror extenders, SpeedoDRD, wheel spacer, Head's-Up voltage monitor, Goldwing pegs, Sonic 1.1, Wolo Bad Boy, ExTuff Helmet Hook.
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post #3 of 4 Old 04-07-2014, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Heard from the dealer today. Suzuki is going to send a new tumbler but I don't think I need one, just reassembly of the current one. The latch is encased inside the bag and the case has to be opened to either repair or replace. My attempts to open the case have failed. I do appreciate the efforts of the dealer and Suzuki. I did drill a nice 3" hole in the bottom to retrieve a set of keys I needed.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-08-2014, 07:46 AM
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Top case latch

I had the exact same experience with my 2012. The top box can be opened without damage. You will need a sharp pointed dental pick/probe. I used a straight shaft, about 4 inches long.

It will take some patience on your part. Slide the sharp end of your pick into the hole the lock cylinder came out of. As the end reaches the top, back of the hole, you should be able to snag the spring loaded latch arm with the point of the pick. Once you find it, it may take several tries to push it far enough to the rear to release the lid. Keep your pick angled up, towards the top of the box and you will eventually get it. It helps if you have someone to lift the lid once the latch is pressed forward. Once opened, remove the rubber dust cover surrounding the arm. Take a flashlight and get a look inside before you remove the two Phillips screws that retain the latch cover. You will probably be able to see the plastic operating arm and the small lock nut that came off the end of the lock cylinder. Move the spring loaded latch back and forth a few times to see how it operates and where the spring is anchored inside the cover.

Take out the two Phillips screws and slowly lift the cover straight up. With a little luck, the latch arm will stay in place allowing you to see where the springs go. You will need to retrieve the actuator arm (small black plastic pc.) and the lock nut.

The problem with mine was a short threaded shaft on the lock cylinder. With the actuator arm in place, there where not enough threads to engage the nylon insert on the nut. I reassembled mine using blue Loctite on the threads. So far so good.

Hope this help you out. I suspected I was not the only one with this issue.
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