clutch judder - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-16-2013, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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clutch judder

i have recently bought a 2005 v strom 1000 with 18000 miles on clock .and some times when setting its like a tractor juddering .like the clutch is grabbing not slipping .but some times its fine .and its no trouble on the go .is it faulty or a v strom .trait
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-16-2013, 02:46 PM
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FAQ: How to test for DL1000 Clutch CHUDDER

Other sticky threads at Clutch are a good read if the test indicates your bike has chudder. https://www.stromtrooper.com/werks-pa...rks-parts.html shows a good place to get it fixed.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-09-2014, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the bike View Post
i have recently bought a 2005 v strom 1000 with 18000 miles on clock .and some times when setting its like a tractor juddering .like the clutch is grabbing not slipping .but some times its fine .and its no trouble on the go .is it faulty or a v strom .trait
Mine does the same thing recently bought mine too, its exactly how you explained it only happens when taking off in first gear what is up with that
Did you find out ant info?
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-09-2014, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VStrom1000 View Post
Mine does the same thing recently bought mine too, its exactly how you explained it only happens when taking off in first gear what is up with that
Did you find out ant info?
Look at the post above you.

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post #5 of 13 Old 01-09-2014, 06:30 PM
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You could have "glazed clutch plates"

Pull them and a light flat sanding and also to swap the first like 3 or 4 in positions

It is also possible if there is a bubble so bleed the system
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-09-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VStrom1000 View Post
Mine does the same thing recently bought mine too, its exactly how you explained it only happens when taking off in first gear what is up with that
Did you find out ant info?

For a long time the only thing we worried about on DL 1000 clutches was "chudder". That is permanently fixable now. But in the past couple years I was hearing about what I will call "clutch slap" for lack of a better term. Electrojake was one of the first ones to post about it here and on other forums. Not always repeatable but comes about more often when trying to slip the clutch a bit on a hard takeoff. All of a sudden it just seems to grab and lock up. Which can be very unsettling if you are in the middle of a low speed maneuver or trying to get across an intersection.

My Vee never acted like that so I cannot relate to it. But, in the 4 cases I can think of each one said a modified clutch basket eliminated it totally.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-09-2014, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VStrom1000 View Post
Mine does the same thing recently bought mine too, its exactly how you explained it only happens when taking off in first gear what is up with that
Did you find out ant info?
Since it's only happening in first gear there's also the possibility that the clutch slave pin has enough debris adhered to it that it's hanging. This was happening to mine when using Belray chain lube requiring steel wool to remove. I've since switched to a wet lube without further problems. I believe this was not Jakes problem however.
It sounds like the OP's question was in regards to the bike "setting" which sounds more like the neutral chatter most get until the clutch lever is depressed

'09 VEE
'07 HD SEUC
'09 ST1300P
'06 ST1300
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-10-2015, 06:04 AM
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I had the same problem on my '05 DL1000 which I bought new. I can't remember when the judder first happened but it was well into the life of the machine, possibly at about 15000 - 20000 kms. The judder didn't happen at every pull-away but would often happen on an uphill. It wasn't possible to induce it but it would happen at least once every ride. I always used the same semi-synthetic oil from new, but at the 84000 km oil change interval, I changed to Castrol Actevo. Since then the machine has done about 500 kms without a hint of a judder.

I don't think it's a wear problem on the clutch assembly - the oil drain magnetic plug has no accumulated debris when inspected at the oil change. I have the filter inspected at a laboratory occasionally and the contaminants are negligible.

The engine seems to be in good condition - the oil consumption is almost nil. I inspected the valve clearances recently (first time since new) and was surprised to see the exhaust valve clearances still at specification and the inlets only marginally under specification. The only tricky part was refitting the valve cover on the rear cylinder - there's not much space to manoeuver the cover and gasket with the large wiring loom causing obstruction and get the semi-circle seals in place.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-10-2015, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Razzle View Post

I don't think it's a wear problem on the clutch assembly - the oil drain magnetic plug has no accumulated debris when inspected at the oil change. I have the filter inspected at a laboratory occasionally and the contaminants are negligible.
There won't be any particles on the magnetic drain plug. The parts that wear badly are not iron based. There won't be any particles in the filter from the aluminum and I don't think an oil analysis will show any unusual amounts of aluminum. The bearing surface will wear some and that is where some micron sized aluminum will come from. But very little at each oil inspection as wear is gradual. The real problem with clutch basket wear is metal displacement. Meaning that the plate and springs hammer the aluminum and move it rather than wear it off or break off chunks. The metal is still there, just displaced. That is where the extra clearance or slack comes from, which is where the problems come from. Once the wear gets bad enough it gets worse quickly as the loose parts hammer harder. A modified clutch basket eliminates this movement so there can be no wear from parts moving back and forth. The modified bearings keep everything aligned so there is almost no wear there again.

I have heard of owners that found improvement when changing oil or oil types. Especially with the clutch slap or jerky engagement described above. All so far that I followed said the problem came back. 500km is not a lot of distance, let us know how it does going forward.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-10-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
For a long time the only thing we worried about on DL 1000 clutches was "chudder". That is permanently fixable now. But in the past couple years I was hearing about what I will call "clutch slap" for lack of a better term. Electrojake was one of the first ones to post about it here and on other forums. Not always repeatable but comes about more often when trying to slip the clutch a bit on a hard takeoff. All of a sudden it just seems to grab and lock up. Which can be very unsettling if you are in the middle of a low speed maneuver or trying to get across an intersection.

My Vee never acted like that so I cannot relate to it. But, in the 4 cases I can think of each one said a modified clutch basket eliminated it totally.
My Vee would do that...even after the Weeks basket....but you sure fixed that chudder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeB5ZraUeYQ
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