I've tried everything to fix the fueling issues of the Strom.
Decided to just let the tired pump die. It did.
After a LOT of research, I went with the Airtex E8229 for a 1994 Suzuki Swift car. Although this manufacturer has had quality issues in the past, they have an all new plant and bought all new OEM specs, now making top quality hardware. This pump has the best tolerances and also has internal cooling for the motor. Mechanic's price was $129 a Merle's Automotive.
Here's the swap. I'm not showing how to take the tank off.
If you can't do that already for basic airfilter maintenance, then you probably shouldn't be doing the level of work described below.
No offense, but this is not for beginners. Please don't blow yourself up.
I keep a fire extinguisher handy and my wife got my life insurance policy out of the safe, tucked it into her bra. She loves me dearly.
I set up a drain hose from the tank into a gas container.
Pulled the fuse to the headlamp here.
Used something to hotwire these two terminals in the plug that goes to the fuel pump relay.
Turned the ignition on and the engine run switch.
The pump ran constantly to drain the tank.
Turned the power off when the tank was dry.
Removed the relay hotwire. Replaced headlamp fuse. Replaced fuel pump relay.
Here's the bottom of the tank, which is on a soft towel.
My outlet hose may be different than yours, as I have performed the external filter mod previously.
Removed the pump. Was careful not to bend the float arm.
Removed the four wires, the screw to the short stem and the two screws at the top for the float/sender. Remember where it all goes, MoDaddy.
Pried here to get the assembly out of the base.
Pried here GENTLY to get the regulator clamp/cover off.
Pried here GENTLY to remove the inlet screen clamp off.
Pulled the pump down out of the filter assembly.
Removed the wire terminal cover and wires.
Here's the old pump and the new pump and kit.
The new pump is about 5mm shorter than the original. I don't care.
Used the small, fat O-ring in the kit to replace this one on the base.
Cleaned the inlet screen and put it on the new pump. It's a tight fit.
Slid the pump up into the assembly, aligned the outlet nozzle and pressed it in.
It's a different fit than before. Not loose, just different. I don't care.
The new terminals are spade, not post, so I had to change the terminal ends on the wires to the motor.
Put it all back together.
The big O-ring under the tank can be a royal pain to keep in the groove as I'm putting the pump base back in the the tank. I used foul words and curses. Applied liberally. Don't screw this up, MoDaddy, or it will leak gas down onto the rear cylinder exhaust pipe.
I set the tank on the bike and connected the hoses and electrical connector.
I tested the operation of the new pump before I bothered to add gas.
I put a little gas in the tank and retried the pump. It sucked up the gas and sounded normal.
With a prayer, I started the bike on the first try. It sounded very strong and revved instantly.
All back together, I took it out on the interstate.
It easily pulls past 8000 RPM now. Power is immediate.
New problem: the bike has a minor wobble at 120 mph.
Likely the giant car tire in back trying to push the front Marathon out of the way. I don't care.
Safely at home, my sweet wife put the life insurance policy back in the safe and tossed a copy of Travel & Leisure in the recycle bin.