Engine pinging after maintenance (actually crash bar vibration) - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Engine pinging after maintenance (actually crash bar vibration)

I just did some maintenance to my K8 Vee and rode it in to work in the morning and I heard some engine pinging. It was very slight, like the metallic sound of coins or keys lightly vibrating with the vibration of the engine. It made the sound both when moving or stationary in Neutral, peaking at 3500RPM. Engine temperature and performance was normal.

I think I know where I messed up ... I'd just like to know if I'm wrong.

Here's the scenario:
1)Just changed the oil, and put in Valvoline 10W-40 conventional
2)Just flushed and changed the radiator fluid, level is stable at MAX
3)Just added 7oz (just under half a bottle) of sea foam to the ~3.5gal (estimated total) of gas that was in the tank (2 oz/gal) ... also note that some of the 3.5gal came from a gas can that I just filled up, but had recently been sitting empty for a few months directly on the ground outside, but protected from rain.

Now that my engine is pinging, I'm thinking using the gas can was my mistake since it may have had condensed water collecting inside. A few minutes ago, I topped off the tank (~3.5 more gal) with 93 octane and I'm going to drive it back home.

Should I do anything else?
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:29 PM
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Could be bad gas, but I would think the Seafoam would counter act it. The higher octane is not gonna do anything, but fresh gas will no doubt help. Sometimes oil can make more mechanical noises, not sure if this is the case however, are you feeling any miss-fires or surging too?

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post #3 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:30 PM
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I'd check for vibrations...outside the engine.

'08 Yellow DL650

Engine Guards; Bash Plate; Centerstand; 1" Bar Risers; Adjustable Lowering Links; OEM Top/Side Cases; EB Headlight Relay; OEM Handguards; Fork Brace; Piece a crap Windscreen; Broken Shift Lever (Tap/Bolt/Duct Tape); New Tires (but I coulda run on that plugged rear another 4k)
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BumbleV View Post
I'd check for vibrations...outside the engine.

That is a great thought, especially if crash bars and or a skid plate is installed. Resonance and vibrations can make some funny noises, I would think bad gas would cause the engine to run poorly enough to notice.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

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post #5 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, great thought. Considering the things I had to take apart to get to the radiator (including engine guards) I'll definitely check that.

I guess I was hoping the higher octane would increase the octane of the (potentially) watery gas in there ... but you're probably right just diluting it with any gas would be helpful if that's the problem.

Maybe my new K&N air filter finally arrived in the mail tonight and I'll have to take it apart anyway!
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 04:38 PM
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If you have twin plug heads make sure you didn't leave one lead off.

"I've recently come to the realization that true happiness can often be found at the bottom of an empty gas tank" - Prime
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veeeh View Post
Yes, great thought. Considering the things I had to take apart to get to the radiator (including engine guards) I'll definitely check that.

I guess I was hoping the higher octane would increase the octane of the (potentially) watery gas in there ... but you're probably right just diluting it with any gas would be helpful if that's the problem.

Maybe my new K&N air filter finally arrived in the mail tonight and I'll have to take it apart anyway!
One way to try to nail it down is to take a big screwdriver/prybar and wedge it in places possibly causing the vibration. A bit of leverage should eliminate or at least change the sound you are hearing and you got it isolated.

'08 Yellow DL650

Engine Guards; Bash Plate; Centerstand; 1" Bar Risers; Adjustable Lowering Links; OEM Top/Side Cases; EB Headlight Relay; OEM Handguards; Fork Brace; Piece a crap Windscreen; Broken Shift Lever (Tap/Bolt/Duct Tape); New Tires (but I coulda run on that plugged rear another 4k)
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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BIG sigh ... I figured out it's the givi engine guards vibrating. I tightened all of the bolts with an allen wrench and short pipe to get lots of leverage and no amount of tightening will fix it.

Although I am happy that this is not an engine problem I see doing a quick search on the forum that this engine guard vibration is a pretty common problem for these guards and I may have my hands full troubleshooting.

Thanks everyone for the help!
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veeeh View Post
BIG sigh ... I figured out it's the givi engine guards vibrating. I tightened all of the bolts with an allen wrench and short pipe to get lots of leverage and no amount of tightening will fix it.

Although I am happy that this is not an engine problem I see doing a quick search on the forum that this engine guard vibration is a pretty common problem for these guards and I may have my hands full troubleshooting.

Thanks everyone for the help!
Had a feeling.:mrgreen: Interesting that some have this issue with the Givi bars, I fortunately do not, of course I am beyond anal with my TB synch. Has that been done or checked, and you could always install some type of nylon washer between bar and frame. You do not want to over tighten, that causes issues as well, and some anti-seize on the threads is not a bad idea.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

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post #10 of 13 Old 12-02-2013, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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GIVI engine guards fix

Harnessing the awesome power of the stromtrooper.com forum, I fixed the GIVI vibration in about 5 minutes.

The bolt's spacer on the center connection at the front of the guard is too short. You can punch the guard with your hand and see (and hear) the spacer spinning and vibrating, even with the bolt cranked down 100%.

I added two stainless steel washers at the end of the spacer (spacers for the spacer) and it fixed it immediately! I revved the engine and it's tight and quiet.

I saw some people resorting to painful and elaborate methods of repair, including bb's, spray foam, grinding the pipes shorter, taping, etc. One person suggested lengthening the spacer by a fraction of an inch with some stainless steel wire (I used washers) so I figured that's my preferred solution. Luckily, it worked for me!

Thanks again everyone. This forum (and the people that make it happen) is great!
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