new DL650 break in period - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 08-16-2007, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question new DL650 break in period

I have a new DL650 and I'm current doing the break-in period (staying under 5k RPMs for 600 miles).

How important is the break-in period? Are there people that haven't done the break-in, any adverse effects? I'm not really itching to floor the throttle but the limitation is a bit constricting.

Also, I'm smelling lot of strange smells from the bike, which I assume is normal.

It also, for the first few rides, had a tendency to make kind of "pop" and "wheeze" after turning it off. Anyone else experienced this?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 21 Old 08-16-2007, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammaj View Post
I have a new DL650 and I'm current doing the break-in period (staying under 5k RPMs for 600 miles).

How important is the break-in period? Are there people that haven't done the break-in, any adverse effects? I'm not really itching to floor the throttle but the limitation is a bit constricting.

Also, I'm smelling lot of strange smells from the bike, which I assume is normal.

It also, for the first few rides, had a tendency to make kind of "pop" and "wheeze" after turning it off. Anyone else experienced this?

Thanks.
once you have a couple of heat cycles on the motor just ride it normally.

Rich Desmond
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848
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post #3 of 21 Old 08-16-2007, 05:51 PM
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The smells are normal. Just enjoy the new bike smell.
As for break in - you will probably get lots of opinions on that :mrgreen:
but I would follow the manual.

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post #4 of 21 Old 08-16-2007, 06:26 PM
 
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The two schools of thought are to A) follow the manual, B) run the engine hard (the "mototune method"), personally I think both are wrong.

I trust the method used in the aviation world for the better part of the last 8 decades, including military engines, very high dollar general aviation engines, and even higher dollar aviation race engines. Its tried, true and helps with reliability and performance.

1) allow engine to warm up (to touch)
2) avoid extended idle
3) avoid high temps
4) keep the engine under load
5) vary RPM's
6) do not "lug" the engine
7) do not use "engine braking"

The purpose of an engine "brake-in" is simply to seat the rings, most of this takes place in the first 3-4 hours of the engines operation. In order for this to happen you need to keep the engine under load so that the rings stay pressed against the cylinder walls.

I typically run engines in with the RPM's in the 60-80% range for short periods of time (5-10min), followed by "cooling periods" down in the 40-50% range, then repeat over and over for the first few hundred miles.


BTW, where did you get your Wee? Ive been looking for an ABS 07 here in Burque for a while but no dice, so Im waiting for the 08's.

Last edited by Petrolglyph; 08-16-2007 at 06:31 PM.
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post #5 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Petrolglyph View Post
The two schools of thought are to A) follow the manual, B) run the engine hard (the "mototune method"), personally I think both are wrong.

I trust the method used in the aviation world for the better part of the last 8 decades, including military engines, very high dollar general aviation engines, and even higher dollar aviation race engines. Its tried, true and helps with reliability and performance.

1) allow engine to warm up (to touch)
2) avoid extended idle
3) avoid high temps
4) keep the engine under load
5) vary RPM's
6) do not "lug" the engine
7) do not use "engine braking"

The purpose of an engine "brake-in" is simply to seat the rings, most of this takes place in the first 3-4 hours of the engines operation. In order for this to happen you need to keep the engine under load so that the rings stay pressed against the cylinder walls.

I typically run engines in with the RPM's in the 60-80% range for short periods of time (5-10min), followed by "cooling periods" down in the 40-50% range, then repeat over and over for the first few hundred miles.
Thanks for the advice... this seem more manageable than a strict 5k RPM cap. Typically, I've been letting the bike warm up for about 5 minutes before riding it then keeping the revs under 5k, but accelerating is a constant throttle, shift, throttle, shift, ...

Quote:
BTW, where did you get your Wee? Ive been looking for an ABS 07 here in Burque for a while but no dice, so Im waiting for the 08's.
I got it from the R&S on Lomas (between Eubank and Wyoming). When we initially starting dealing they thought they had an DL650AK7 in stock at a west side store. The deal they gave me was contingent on that fact... they later figured out that the bike they had on the west side wasn't actually an ABS model. Since they had already agreed to the deal they (supposedly) took a hit and shipped it from Arizona. The manager of that R&S claimed that it was one of the last 2 ABS 07s in the southwest (possibly the U.S., I don't remember exactly what he said).

Anyway, it's a sweet bike, I'm trying to break it in as fast as I can, only logged 90 miles so far.
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post #6 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 06:53 AM
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Read and be enlightened...

Motoune Break-in Method

The method described in your manual serves no one but the corporate lawyers at Suzuki.


However, since you've put 90 miles on it, you've essentially missed your opportunity to use the Mototune method.

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post #7 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 08:59 AM
 
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How long ago did you make this deal with R&S? The reason I ask is that the non-abs 07 on the west side was sold about month ago and they have not gotten another one in yet. They supposedly have been trying to find me an ABS for the 3 weeks, seems like you got my bike.... maybe I smell bad? :mrgreen:


IMHO your letting your engine idle too long, 5 minutes is allot. All it needs is to be warm to the touch so 1-2 minutes is plenty, then ride it easy until your up to NOT. Extended idle can glaze the cylinders in short order.
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post #8 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newfoundlander View Post
Read and be enlightened...

Motoune Break-in Method

The method described in your manual serves no one but the corporate lawyers at Suzuki.


However, since you've put 90 miles on it, you've essentially missed your opportunity to use the Mototune method.
Almost exactly how I did it on mine. Got it warmed up a bit, got it out the dealer and was up to about 7500-8000 rpm in the next 300 ft. It is now up to 19 000km ( about 12 000 miles ). Runs great with absolutely no oil consumption and I change oil every 6000 km (close to 4000 miles). One thing he doesnt say is the fact that the new watercooled engines have much more constant temperatures thus, they tend to generate much less variations in tolerances. Go ahead, rev that little mill!
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post #9 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrolglyph View Post
How long ago did you make this deal with R&S? The reason I ask is that the non-abs 07 on the west side was sold about month ago and they have not gotten another one in yet. They supposedly have been trying to find me an ABS for the 3 weeks, seems like you got my bike.... maybe I smell bad? :mrgreen:
The deal went down 2 weeks ago -- actually got the bike two days ago. Waiting for the 08s is probably your best bet. Every dealer I went to in town said ABS models where in short supply this time of year (since ABS models are manufactured in smaller quantities?).

I was surprised when R&S said had the bike... though they didn't actually , but their mistake was my gain. I guess contractual obligation makes bikes more easily found.
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post #10 of 21 Old 08-17-2007, 06:49 PM
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Thumbs up Break-in instructions

Brand new motorcycles and new girl friends should be broken-in like your gonna use them...........so throw your legs over her (it) ride it like it's stolen.:twisted::twisted:

Just a gentle warning.......be careful..........because your facial muscles may suffer from the constant smile during your ride.

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