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Proper chain tensile strength

4K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  John V Strom, Jr. 
#1 · (Edited)
I seem to be turning my chain/sprocket replacement process into a career with my third posting on this. The first two got me exactly the information I needed. A forum search has turned up several very useful threads that I have bookmarked or saved to a file.

The final issue is chain type. I'll be staying with the 525 chain but am uncertain about what type of chain to use, that is, the tensile strength rating. I bought a RK "RX" 525XSO Ring chain today at the Suzuki dealership but am having second thoughts. By the graph on the back it is a middle of the road chain with their highest rated being an "XW". The RX box says it is rated for high performance street use and it cost $99. They had another of bronze color chain that cost $169, a significantly higher price that had a higher tensile strength rating, over 900, while the the one I bought is just under 900. I have no idea what that means. I know that Blaire sells a good chain and I have purchased a number of items from him but I'd like to get this project done this weekend.

What kind of chains are you guys using?

What the heck is the optimum chain to buy.

Of interest, apparently all dealerships are now required to use rivet master link instead of the clip. I'll do all the work myself using the clip and probably and take it to the dealer to install and crimp the pin.
 
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#5 ·
I've had good results with RK chains, both X ring and O ring. There are arguments on boths sides about cleaning (I'm pro-cleaning a couple of times a year), but there is no arguement about lubing. So keep it lubed and it'll last longer.

I bought my bike used with 12,00km/7500 miles and the dealer had put a new chain on it. I just replaced the chain last weekend at 52,500km/32,800miles. The chain wasn't as bad as some of my other chain swaps, with only 2 light kinked spots. Sprockets were well worn. 40,000km/25,000miles seems good value for a chain.
 
#6 ·
I use the RK 525 on my KLR non oring because The bike is mostly for winter use. The salt seemed to kill the oring chains pretty quickly. The non oring chain I can hit with WD-40 on a regular basis to flush out the salt then lube it. On the Wee, I use the DID oring chain with a master link. Never had a problem with a master link in 35 years and today the masters are much tighter tolerance and quality. The only caution is the clip needs be facing the correct direction. Closed end faces the direction of rotation.
 
#7 ·
Tensile strength of the chain is not a big deal for our bikes. It is more important for high power sport bikes using a lighter 520 chain.

The chain you bought will do a good job. If you plan on riding that Vee for the full life of that chain and more, wider 530 size chain and sprockets will give longer chain life due to the greater surface area to carry the load.
 
#9 ·
I went with the EK SRO-Z in 525. I have been using one for the past year and a half and have 16K miles on it. It has lots of life left the way I see it, but I want to regear the bike anyway so that is why I picked up another SRO-Z. My bike does stay outside though so I am getting surface rust in spots.

I am a firm believer in cleaning and lubing. 3 to one ratio or so: three lube to one clean.

What is amazing to me is that when it comes to chains, people really tend to go for broke so finding reviews of midgrade chains is next to impossible. Kind of sucks.
 
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