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Chain/sprocket replacement

4K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  kiwi_outdoors 
#1 ·
Howdie yall!!

So guess what I did today?? Yup, replaced the sprockets and chain. The original(factory) chain was on... So thanks to grey wolf's input I cut the old chain off...with a sawzall. That was interesting. I used my 2' prybar, twisted the chain for tension and went for it.

Took a trip to hard ware store, got a cutting wheel and attachment for my drill. Cut to length and installed the clip!! I converted to 520 by the way. Much cheaper.

Question for the masses though, how do you pop the master link off? It's a clip style but the link does not go on or off by hand. I used a c-clamp to put it on but off...well I got nothing. Brand is DID.
Finger


This is the new/old master link. I didnt mention that I put on the new chain without measuring. I bought the chain to factory specs, only I had to remove two links. So the 1st new master link I had to cut off on the account that I had no way to remove the master link once I installed it, like I said cause I used a c-clamp.

So my question here, do they make a tool for this? If I need a chain replacement on the road, I'll need the right tools.




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#5 ·
#6 ·
I recycle the rear sprocket.

I considered the rear sprocket carefully, and made these observations:
having many more teeth than the front, the rear sprocket is less worn;
the wear on each sprocket is principally on one side of each tooth.

So I reversed my old rear sprocket instead of buying a new one,
and used five washers to account for the slight asymmetry.

Result: the chain and front sprocket lasted as long as the originals,
and I saved the price of a rear sprocket over its 44000-mile life.

My mileage is now 76600, so I am half way through my 4th chain,
and three-quarters of the way through my second rear sprocket.

Finally, a rear sprocket, either new or worn out both ways, makes a dandy gong.

Keith
 
#8 ·
chain tool

Check out MikesXS for chain tools. I have the #35-0006 model. This is a knock-off of the very expensive (but probably better quality) DID tool. This tool appears to be OK but I chipped/ruined the drive pin on the first try to remove the extra couple of links from a new chain. This after I had ground the rivet head down nearly flush with the side plate. I wasn't using much force either. This was disappointing as I have used other rivet extracting tools, the kind with the short silver colored folding handle, with more force and no problems. I'll get another drive pin and see if it happens again the next time I replace the chain.

Regarding the clip type master link, the side plate is press fit and should be put on only far enough to get the clip on. Any further and you are distorting/squeezing the O-ring too much and it will have a short life. To get the plate off, roll the chain around so the master link is on the rear sprocket. Then use an awl or small screwdriver or something that fits and carefully drive it down between the sprocket and the side plate. The chain breaker tool, even though its designed for removing the rivet, can be used like a vise to press the plate back on as its a light press fit and the tool presses it straight on. It works better than pliers, vise grips, etc.

Of course, if you're thinking you are going to be dealing with drive chains for a while then spend the money and get a good quality tool that will drive out rivets (break chains) as well as correctly press fit and rivet and be done with it once and for all. This is one case where the proper tool makes a world of difference. It seems painfully expensive for a good tool but see what the MC shop charges you for the job and what your break-even cost point is. I now own 3 less than stellar chain tools and am approaching the cost of one good one. Two of the tools are currently damaged and need replacement parts which translates to additional cost and lost time, if that's an issue.
 
#11 ·
The original chain does not have a master link. The chain is put on before the swing arm is installed.

The clip-type master links are suspect. The rivet-type are much more reliable.

The stock chain on a 1000 is 525 size. The 520 is narrower, so there is less surface area to carry the load. Expect shorter chain life. For a hard ridden 1000 what the owner expects to continue to own for the next 25,000+ miles, wider 530 chain & sprockets will give longer chain life.
 
#12 · (Edited)
for your info - front sprockets at 17k miles and 40k miles

from my 1st Wee and my new old Wee

the new to me old Wee (both are 2007) has 40k on it and 8k on the chain. Chain had been replaced by pervious owner without changing the front sprocket!!

I am putting the 17k front sprocket on the higher mileage bike in order to get some life out of the chain, then I will replaced all the final drive components about 5-10k down the road.

BTW - the nut on the front sprocket was easy to get off using a breaker bar (w/o cheater) and a rod thru the rear wheel to stop it turning (rod routed to avoid ABS sensor wire) - no sign of Loctite - sprocket was original.
 

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