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post #21 of 26 Old 02-10-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
I always put a strip of green scourer pad (the thing the bride uses to scrub the pots and pans) between the dust seal and the oil seal...
Sounds interesting but I can't picture where you're doing this? Have a photo?

I'm about to do my forks, so it should be "interesting" to see how well the PO has maintained these forks. I've only had the bike for about 3k miles, and got it with 60k, so...yeah; we'll see!

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post #22 of 26 Old 02-10-2019, 08:07 PM
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I will assume you have the old 1000 and I will also assume they are like most bikes.

When you look at the top of the lower fork tube you will see a seal, that is only a dust seal, put a small screwdriver between the seal and the lower fork tube then flip the seal up and out of the lower tube & slide it up the upper tube.

Now look in the gap you have created and you will see the oil seal.

Cut a strip of scourer and put it in that gap, now push the dust seal back into place and you are done.
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post #23 of 26 Old 02-12-2019, 11:14 AM
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fork boots can help protect seals from dirt/dust/bugs and also offer protection to the tubes from small stones/dried bugs. One piece rubber type requires dismantling tubes or the neoprene/velcro type that wraps around. one trooper mentions he found oil was much cleaner using boots.
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post #24 of 26 Old 02-12-2019, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Yarz1 View Post
Having just done my first fork oil change on my Vee, I can say there's more to it than just draining the oil through 2 holes at the lowest points, like perhaps draining the engine oil. Oil remains in the damper until pumped out. You can't get that out by simply opening the hole at the bottom of each fork tube and letting it drip out. And if it so happened that the damper would actually drain that way, how are you going to pump the air out of the damper and get oil back into it by just using a drain hole for changing the fluid? Besides, to get your oil back in that you drained through the two bottom holes, you still have to remove the fork tube caps. So to me it seems that you've done 75% of what I just did by taking my tubes off and disassembling them.
Obviously the caps must be removed to pour in the fluid. I assumed everyone knew that.

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post #25 of 26 Old 02-14-2019, 11:52 AM
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Just curious, for those that want fork drain holes, why not grab your drill and tap set, and add 'em yourself.

Last edited by DonOhio45813; 02-14-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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post #26 of 26 Old 02-14-2019, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DonOhio45813 View Post
Just curious, for those that want fork drain holes, why not grab your drill and tap set, and add 'em yourself.
I've seriously thought of doing that. I researched it & some have done that. Others say it weakens the fork & is risky, though I haven't heard of it actually causing a problem. Sort of like having to take the engine out & turn it upside down to change the oil. Some won't mind & will defend it but at least give us another option Suzuki. Even us 1 percenters. No harm done. It was done for decades for a reason. I guess Suzuki isn't the only one. Here's what Rider Magazine says: https://ridermagazine.com/2016/01/10...l-drain-plugs/

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Last edited by Juan_Banjovy; 02-14-2019 at 02:23 PM.
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