Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Millgrove, ON, Canada
I'm not a chemist, but I'll try to clarify my post based on my experience from a lot of wrenching bikes. The liquid types do seem to have a carrier solvent that will dry off (albeit slowly), and the applicator tip will plug up if you leave the lid off. You hardly ever need to use more than one drop, which will flash off a lot faster than 3 drops. In the OEM auto biz we had many fasteners pre-coated with Loctite patches, which were yellow, blue, orange, or red. Likely a different formula than what we buy off the shelf, but they had dried similar to a dried soap. Anyway, I'm mostly referring to the blue liquid type I think most of us use.
IMHO you have to evaluate the need for Loctite for each joint, e.g., anywhere there is a rubber grommet/washer, which perhaps has a shoulder on the screw that bottoms out, you likely don't have to use it unless it is chronically vibrating loose. Then, use sparingly so no excess gets on fairing/fender plastics (which could be ABS, PPE) as it will eat those. I've never used Loctite on any plastic screw or threaded nut.
I do use it on critical or safety fasteners like caliper bolts, pinch bolts, brake rotor bolts, etc., and treat it like a lubricated fastener when torquing. A bi-metal galvanic reaction will occur with aluminum to varying degrees depending if it is steel, stainless, galvanized, copper. If you remove/replace the fastener often enough, not so bad. If it's an engine mount bolt that you rarely if ever remove, then use some anti-seize on the threads. Galvanized into aluminum is the worst and reacts in the shortest time. Always use an impact driver to remove stubborn ones of any type.
So, use sparingly, and you'll have to decide in individual fastening cases to use thread locker, anti-seize or nothing.