Chain question. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
Junior Trooper
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 2
Chain question.

Hello all, new member here. After years of riding shaft driven motorcycles it looks like I'm back in the chain drive business again. I know many things have changed with chain technology since my last chain driven bike which brings me to my question. I recently purchased a used 2017 650 with 4K miles. The bike was in another state 500 miles from home. After the intial inspection and completing the paperwork I was anxious to begin my trip home. The PO assured me he had taken care of all maintenance issues in preparation for my trip so off I went. After I got home and had some time to go over the bike in detail I discovered the chain was totally dry, no indication it had ever been lubed. I could grab it with my bare hand and not get dirty. So, after 4500 miles of this abuse is the chain still good? I lubed it and set the slack and it looks ok but I have no idea whats going on inside. Thanks for your advice
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 09:07 AM
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No worries, it's an o-ring chain, they are internally lubricated. 99% of the friction is internal. Go ahead an oil the outside forl rust and additional protection and don't worry about it.

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Previous rides: 2012 KLX250S, 2006 VT1100C2, 2002 KX125, 1999 SV650, 1987 GPZ305
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post #3 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 09:25 AM
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Lengthy info on chain maintenance chains are internally lubed but there are friction points on the sprockets.

SO, I just spray clean my chain and sprockets off every couple of thousand with DuPont Chain degreaser, a chain brush, then wipe with part of an old towel and then spray with DuPont Teflon Chain saver. The Chain saver gets sprayed on the bottom inner part of the chain every 500 miles. But I am kinda anal LOL !!

Phil C.
2017 DL650AL Wee-Strom.
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 09:35 AM
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Your 500 mile trip home is probably what caused the chain to become dry. Recommended lubrication interval varies with everyone's personal opinion, but the book says 600km, so slightly less than 400 miles. (I do it every few days, without checking mileage, or on a long trip at the end of each days ride. ) You can use any brand chain lube, they all work, or simply rub down with an oily rag. Just be sure to avoid stiff brushes as they can damage the o rings.
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 12:25 PM
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To check the chain wear try pulling the chain to the rear of the rear sprocket. If it moves very far then it is worn.

there is a ton of posts here on chain lubing. I apply a little ATF with a dauber bottle to keep the O rings flexible which keeps the good lube inside the chain from leaking out. ATF is good for O rings and the chain rollers.


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post #6 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 03:43 PM
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Like Marcham said don't worry, be happy
no need to lube the chain unless wet and it's parked for few days not to get some rust,
but on Gold chain I don't even get rust when wet anyway.
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-20-2019, 03:45 PM
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If chain life is a concern you might want to ask people that give you advice on chains how long their chains are lasting.

I never clean my chains but lube them with ever stop for gas and after every ride it the rain. This takes 10 to 20 seconds total time with a centerstand.

I have worked up to it over the years and my chains are now begin replaced some time beyond 50,000 miles/ 80,000 km. I use Wurth HHS2000 (which I believe is called HHS-K in the USA.)


My Opinion:
Vee or V= DL1000 before 2014
Vee2 or V2 = DL1000 2015 to 2019
Vee3 or V3 = DL1050 2020 to?

My Stroms:
2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 205,000+ km, 127,000+ miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.

Last edited by V-Tom; 11-20-2019 at 04:00 PM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 11-21-2019, 10:20 PM
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O-ring/X-ring chains do need to be lubed. There are 3 areas of metal to metal contact with motion between the metal surfaces. One is lubricated permanently and sealed by the o-x ring at assembly. The other 2 need to be periodically lubed. For more detail see the picture on chain construction at Yamaha Genuine Chain and Sprockets
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-21-2019, 11:54 PM
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Since nobody did comment on chain slack, a loose chain is a happy chain. Don't tighten the slack too much. It is likely causing more wear and can potentially damage the counter sprocket bearing, if too tight.

I adjust when I feel that the driveline slack has gotten a bit much.

And Welcome to the forum. You started with a loaded question. Lets hope this will not again become a 100 post thread about the pros and cons of the many lube - clean - do nothing combinations of maintenance or abuse of our chains.
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Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A

Last edited by blaustrom; 11-21-2019 at 11:57 PM.
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-22-2019, 10:39 AM
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My Experience W/ Chains and Lube:

- I lube my chain AFT every other fuel fill up or immediately after riding in the rain.
- I NEVER use solvents a or a brush to 'clean' my chain.
- I use a shop rag to apply the ATF lube which 'cleans' the chain at the same time.

My last chain on my ZRX1200 was going strong at 35,000 miles when I sold the bike in June of this year.
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