Exhaust pipe reroute?? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #1 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust pipe reroute??

IMHO, the only major shortcome that I haven't fixed with farkles (or could fix with a suspension upgrade), is the ground clearance. I do trips to Mexico, and I like to do dirt roads, not to mention the horrendous speed bumps (topas) there. The 2018 Wee REALLY needs another 2" of ground clearance to meet the normal clearance of other ADV bikes.

If someone knows a way to reroute the front cylinder exhaust pipe from under the engine please tell me. If it's possible, and doesn't effect back pressure, I could have a skid plate manufactured. I'd do it in a heartbeat other than just cutting and welding and hoping the engine isn't affected. It would have to fit inside crash bars too for protection from a get off or tip over.

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Last edited by WingVetteStrom; 06-19-2019 at 02:38 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 05:04 PM
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Pretty sure that you won't find a off-the-shelf solution.

There is not much (barely any) free space inside the frame. If you were really committed to do that, it will be a custom build. There are companies like Cone Engineering (https://www.coneeng.com) which sell short sections of SS exhaust cut in angles to allow welded twists and turns. Chances are you would also be changing to a relocated oil filter so that would give a path to run the exhaust out the left side and into the existing spaghetti of the rear cylinder exhaust.

Big job unless you are dating a welder ...
Are you tall enough to raise the bike a couple of inches ?

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post #3 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVDucati View Post
Pretty sure that you won't find a off-the-shelf solution.

There is not much (barely any) free space inside the frame. If you were really committed to do that, it will be a custom build. There are companies like Cone Engineering (https://www.coneeng.com) which sell short sections of SS exhaust cut in angles to allow welded twists and turns. Chances are you would also be changing to a relocated oil filter so that would give a path to run the exhaust out the left side and into the existing spaghetti of the rear cylinder exhaust.

Big job unless you are dating a welder ...
Are you tall enough to raise the bike a couple of inches ?
I looked at raising links. Problem is, the engine belly is about 1/2 between the front axle and the link attachment points, so you only get about half the raise where the money is. And with my 30" inseam, I'm right where I need to be now after I modified my seat about 3/4" lower.
I'm still curious if changing the length and amount of turns would somehow affect the front cylinder negatively. Hope I'm just overthinking this but not sure.

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2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 09:44 PM
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I'm still curious if changing the length and amount of turns would somehow affect the front cylinder negatively. Hope I'm just overthinking this but not sure.
Someone else may chip in but I say that the fuel injected engines of today are far less finiky than the carburetor bikes back when the fuel going in was effected by the gasses going out. You would have to do something very radical to even be able to notice a difference. If you wrapped the front exhaust up and around the left side and into the rear cylinder exhaust you would then have a 2 into 1 system like you do now. Obviously, if you were "tuning" for max at a specific RPM the centerline length needs to be pretty equal. That is why when you look under a bike now you see how they cram in the length. Measure the OEM length of the front pipe from the head to where it joins the rear pipe and that is your target length.

If you are really committed, you might consider buying a new 3rd party header system and modify that.

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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I can't imagine how an oil filter could be relocated, although the location of this one is seriously dumb. LOL!
My 2018 Honda Goldwing's filter actually sits recessed up into the engine case. Indestructible.

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post #6 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingVetteStrom View Post
I looked at raising links. Problem is, the engine belly is about 1/2 between the front axle and the link attachment points, so you only get about half the raise where the money is. And with my 30" inseam, I'm right where I need to be now after I modified my seat about 3/4" lower.
I'm still curious if changing the length and amount of turns would somehow affect the front cylinder negatively. Hope I'm just overthinking this but not sure.
I'm not sure there's enough clearance gained relative to the work involved. There's also the factory "squashed" rear header balance pipe that connects to the front header to consider, that'll be important if you're worried about pre collector lengths and diameters.
You're really only going to get the equivalent to the diameter of the front header extra clearance before the sump becomes the lowest point. I've made a few headers in my time and looked at this exact issue and my own personal opinion is it's not worth my time. In saying that I've seen an Aussie guy on this forum do something along these lines so it's down to what time and effort/cash you're willing to put into it. Personally I'd look at getting the spring rates right first if you haven't already and see how you feel about clearance then, these things sag a bit even with my 85kg on board, you might get back half the diameter of the header in reducing that sag and improve the handling and ride of the bike.


I've jacked mine up with shorter rear linkages (128mm centres) and turned some basic fork extenders to get some height at the front, 13mm is about as far down the forks can be lowered through the triple clamps before the brake line becomes an issue. It sits plenty high for me (30" inseam too.) and I have less considerably interaction between the bashplate and the trail surface. The fork extensions are something that may be not be perceived as as safe modification, I've had no issues after ten months including some of the roughest terrain I've ridden and loaded at that.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure there's enough clearance gained relative to the work involved. There's also the factory "squashed" rear header balance pipe that connects to the front header to consider, that'll be important if you're worried about pre collector lengths and diameters.
You're really only going to get the equivalent to the diameter of the front header extra clearance before the sump becomes the lowest point. I've made a few headers in my time and looked at this exact issue and my own personal opinion is it's not worth my time. In saying that I've seen an Aussie guy on this forum do something along these lines so it's down to what time and effort/cash you're willing to put into it. Personally I'd look at getting the spring rates right first if you haven't already and see how you feel about clearance then, these things sag a bit even with my 85kg on board, you might get back half the diameter of the header in reducing that sag and improve the handling and ride of the bike.


I've jacked mine up with shorter rear linkages (128mm centres) and turned some basic fork extenders to get some height at the front, 13mm is about as far down the forks can be lowered through the triple clamps before the brake line becomes an issue. It sits plenty high for me (30" inseam too.) and I have less considerably interaction between the bashplate and the trail surface. The fork extensions are something that may be not be perceived as as safe modification, I've had no issues after ten months including some of the roughest terrain I've ridden and loaded at that.
Great info. Thx! So far my 4mm aluminum bash plate has held up to some whacks south of the border, but you never know. Someday the luck might run out.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 10:19 PM
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I can't imagine how an oil filter could be relocated, although the location of this one is seriously dumb. LOL!
My 2018 Honda Goldwing's filter actually sits recessed up into the engine case. Indestructible.
This one isn't specifically for the 650 but essentially a plate bolts on to the current location and hoses run to the remote location.

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post #9 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NVDucati View Post
This one isn't specifically for the 650 but essentially a plate bolts on to the current location and hoses run to the remote location.
Where did that set up come from. Link?

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post #10 of 12 Old 06-19-2019, 10:38 PM
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Where did that set up come from. Link?
That photo was just one on Amazon. Summit has pretty large selection. You will likely have to figure out the thread size etc (Summit Racing)

Don't know if the folks on the SV forum have specific recommendations.

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