I owned an '05 650 and I tuned and tuned on my Race Tech emulators for the longest time. I got them to work pretty good on the compression stroke for what they are- a crude little gizmo. But, remember, the rebound control on the DL650 fork will always be inconsistent because it is a fixed orifice damper rod. What this meant, was the rebound was too fast sometimes, too slow other times, and maybe close to correct other times.
All that said, if I were in your shoes, I would do exactly what I recommended in my earlier post on this thread- increase your spring rate. Cut the springs per the link I provided and reset the preload or buy new springs, take your pick. Simply put, you weigh too much for those stock springs. Adding preload will lift the front, but it's barely a band aid to the real issue. And, as stated above, if you add too much preload, you could potentially coil bind before you bottom the fork and that will be violent. The 650's fork has a bottoming cone system, which adds that increased dampening in the bottom inch or so of travel- and you want to retain that function, so do not coil bind. Also, if you add too much preload, the fork will "top out" at times, which will cause handling problems with bumps in corners.
To deal with the higher rebound forces of the stiffer springs, you will need to either use thicker fork fluid or, weld + drill smaller rebound holes in the damper rods. It's not complicated stuff to do this. As stated by others above, your bike has an old school fork and without dropping a lot of money, there is only so much you can do, but also don't set your expectations too high and you'll be just fine.
Hope this helps.