Recommendations for a Newbee on a DL650 - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #11 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 04:39 PM
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Get some bark busters and crash bars. There is always a chance of dropping the bike. That chance goes up for a new rider. The brake and clutch levers don't handle the weight of the bike very well. Bark busters will protect them. Also, if you have a nice looking bike, you don't want to scratch the paint. That is where the crash bars come into play.
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post #12 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BigSky View Post
To help the OP and his future confusion. You will see a lot of reference over the years for models prior to 2017 wherein there is a lot of talk of buying a madstad bracket. That can't be done for the 2017 and newer. You would need to buy the entire Madstad windshield package. I guess it is possible that somebody else could have bought a complete Madstad windshield setup for their 2017+ and then broke the windshield and decided to sell the bracket. That is the only way you will find a Madstad bracket for a 2017+. Enjoy the bike. It is awesome. Oh ya, so is the entire Madstad windshield setup.
Good point... I was actually thinking if any gear fitting pre 2017 would also fit 2017+

Attached my Wee - picked it today after I got pickpocked riding a train to pick it.

Regards, Lars.
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post #13 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 05:19 PM
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There are as many arguments on proper break in as there are oil threads. As long as you not going to hope on Interstate 80 click it into 6th gear and ride across the country at a constant speed or continually bounce it of the rev limiter don't worry about proper break in. Gas it up go for a ride and ride until the fuel is low. Top up the tank and ride some more. Keep repeating until you run our of gas money or time.

Honestly most of the break in is done at the factory before the motor is even in the bike when its bench tested.

As far as fitting the bike to you. Ride it for a while taking note what bothers you day after day. Tackle these niggles one at time and take notes of the change good bad or indifferent. Sometimes you get lucky and something like bar risers not only give you better ergo's but also change the way you're in the saddle and that buffeting issue might go away. I know is hard to not buy a cart load of farkles and start bolting them on but if you do small incremental changes you'll end up with a better end product and probably saving some money along the way but not wasting it on something that had little effect.
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Last edited by PerazziMx14; 04-23-2019 at 05:27 PM.
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PerazziMx14 View Post
There are as many arguments on proper break in as there are oil threads. As long as you not going to hope on Interstate 80 click it into 6th gear and ride across the country at a constant speed or continually bounce it of the rev limiter don't worry about proper break in. Gas it up go for a ride and ride until the fuel is low. Top up the tank and ride some more. Keep repeating until you run our of gas money or time.

Honestly most of the break in is done at the factory before the motor is even in the bike when its bench tested.
The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
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post #15 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Hello and welcome to the group!

I don't believe the DL650 is a high theft bike, but I'm not sure in the EU.
Thanks. I noticed that my DL650 apparently got an immobilizer. I didn't know this. Is it any good? I mean... of coarse it can be carried onto a van and driven away... but is it hard enough to circumvent for people not bothering to steal it?

Regards, Lars.
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post #16 of 27 Old 04-23-2019, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bonne View Post
The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
All manuals have verbiage like this and its the law team typing those words. More to let you get used to the bike verses the very minimal break in that may occur.

If you take the bike up to 6,000 or 7,000+ RPM's for short bursts it isn't going to hurt it and some even say its beneficial.

Its your bike do what you think is best be that follow the manual or do a track day. Neither answer is right or wrong and neither will hurt not hinder the motor.
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post #17 of 27 Old 04-27-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Webfors View Post

I went cheap for the side cases, but I LOVE them, they are the Givi E22, or the Kappa K22n. Small top loading boxes that hold all the basics. I also went with a E460 Givi top case and keyed all three boxes alike for one key access.
The bike comes with three extra key cylinders that fits the key. Can these be used on any boxes and cases or only specific?

Regards, Lars.
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post #18 of 27 Old 04-27-2019, 06:48 PM
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Hi Lars,

the main ignition key or a key for another case?

Most key cylinders are brand/model specific.

Two wheelz for realz!
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post #19 of 27 Old 04-28-2019, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Lars,

the main ignition key or a key for another case?

Most key cylinders are brand/model specific.
Yes, the main ignition key. It fits into the three, loose cylinders that came in a plastic bag at the bike delivery

I guess it is for cases... but witch then?

Regards, Lars.
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post #20 of 27 Old 04-28-2019, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonne View Post
The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
Just ride "normally", the whole break in thing is for the rider of the new to them bike. You'll figure out in time what you believe needs added to the bike, spend more time riding and honing your skills over anything else.

BRIAN "GO Buckeyes, GO Wildcats"!

2015 DL650 XT "Hector"

1997 Honda Valkyrie 1500 custom “Dolores”




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