Recommended maintenance after a long storage period - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #11 of 17 Old 04-12-2019, 04:15 PM
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If the bike has the stock paper filter it will be fine but if it has a aftermarket foam filter that will most likely be toast, they don't like not being used.

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post #12 of 17 Old 04-13-2019, 07:14 AM
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Corn juice can phase separate as early as 2 months. Once that happens a fuel additive(ethanol killer) will not help, so I am in the 'pull the tank and dump the gas' corner. Shine a flashlight in there and see if it needs a rinse & if so kerosene is good for that and smells great. While you have the tank off, check that airbox/filter for rodents, it the the perfect medium for a mouse house.

If it's not on a battery tender the battery might be toast, but charge it up and see if it holds a charge then get it load tested at any auto parts store. I picked up a Harbor Freight load tester at an auction for $2.50 and the damn thing has come in handy so many times everyone should own one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...9888-9191.html

I really don't see any need to dump the oil, it does not separate, or become contaminated from sitting?

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post #13 of 17 Old 04-19-2019, 08:30 AM
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Accumalated water vapor separates from oil and rusts the steel. Carbon, water, and sulfur in the used engine oil can combine and create an acid over time. That's why it's recommended changing it before and after storage. There's even a special preserving oil just for long term storage.

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post #14 of 17 Old 04-20-2019, 07:13 AM
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10 months is not that long. You can do all the above recommendations if it makes you feel better but I’d just top off the battery and tires and go ride it. I might also top off the tank with fresh fuel once the tank is half empty.
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Last edited by Hogges; 04-20-2019 at 07:16 AM.
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post #15 of 17 Old 04-20-2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Hatchi View Post
Accumalated water vapor separates from oil and rusts the steel. Carbon, water, and sulfur in the used engine oil can combine and create an acid over time. That's why it's recommended changing it before and after storage. There's even a special preserving oil just for long term storage.

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If you change oil before storage, you most certainly don't need to change it after storage. Of course put me in the camp of doing neither, as any issues of what you state would take years to cause any real damage if any at all. Hell years ago I picked up a 77 Suzuki GS550 which had sat for 15 years, all I did was flush the tank, rebuilt the carbs, changed oil, new battery.......bike fired right up and ran like a top.
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post #16 of 17 Old 04-22-2019, 09:00 AM
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I've read the reason to change it after storage is because the additives in the oil have done their job to limit the potential damage from the chemistries and any water vapor that's accumulated in there. It's common for many engine powered devices to base the replacement interval on mileage and time, i.e. 5000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

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post #17 of 17 Old 04-22-2019, 09:20 AM
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I ran my DL650 late last season with Rotella 5w40, put about 1k miles on it, stored it all winter, fired right up and have been driving it on the same oil.

Oil additives have a much higher shelf life than one season of 6-10 months of storage.

The gas is more important IMO. If you can find premium non-ehtanol, topped up, with stabil and a dose of MMO, that will never fail you. I've had generators sit with the same fuel for 1.5 years with that routine, they fire right up.

Here almost all premium 91 octane is ethanol free.
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