Help, brake bleeding. - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #21 of 86 Old 03-13-2019, 08:05 AM
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Just keep bleeding, cussing it, bleeding, etc. It WILL eventually get to the point the lever feels really good.

The difference in initial bite is substantial! Yes, you can kick in the ABS now. Where before with the stock front brakes and good street tires I could pull the lever to the grip and not engage ABS on good concrete!

I do get a bit more "whirring" noise with these calipers when applying the brakes. That is the sound of the pads going over the holes in the rotor. Different size pads make it more noticeable.
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post #22 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
WVS, just asking...
When you apply the front brakes with the bike stationary, do the calipers move on their slides? Ive seen calipers stick and flex slightly on their mounts, and the 1st bit of lever application is used up in getting the calipers to stop then apply the pads. It gives a soft lever feeling.
Pads are fine.

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post #23 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
Just keep bleeding, cussing it, bleeding, etc. It WILL eventually get to the point the lever feels really good.

The difference in initial bite is substantial! Yes, you can kick in the ABS now. Where before with the stock front brakes and good street tires I could pull the lever to the grip and not engage ABS on good concrete!

I do get a bit more "whirring" noise with these calipers when applying the brakes. That is the sound of the pads going over the holes in the rotor. Different size pads make it more noticeable.
Maybe that's the rotational noise I'm getting. The noise doesn't occur only on full rotation, but more often, so that would make sense. I'm guessing the sintered nature of the new pads is creating the sound as they're more abrasive?
Went back to the man cave for the third time last night. Bled all three bleed screws once again. Only one very small bubble out of the MC bleeder, but a bubble is a bubble. I also cracked the actual banjos and pumped a good amount of fluid through all three. Didn't see any air, however with that much fluid surging out around the banjo's it would be hard to tell.

The lever actually feels not too bad now. Going to test ride. If all well will post pictures of the project. What a friggin PIA. They only thing left if the test ride doesn't pan out is to remove the battery and battery box and crack the connections on the ABS pump/HU.
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Last edited by WingVetteStrom; 03-14-2019 at 02:19 PM.
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post #24 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 02:48 PM
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Give it some time. When I did mine I left the bike on the side stand and brake lever tied down with a Velcro strap for several nights accompanied by repeated tapping on the lines and t connector. Mine had no ABS. Once the pads had seated properly to the discs the lever feel (and the brake intensity) was certainly crisper then early on. So I would just ride it for a while and then re-try bleeding if it remains softer than before the swap.

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post #25 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 03:21 PM
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Might not apply, but when I rebuilt the calipers and went to bigger brakes on an E46 BMW I had a very hard time getting the pedal to feel firm. I eventually took it to a mechanic and he removed the calipers, slighty expanded the pistons, then put the caliper back on over the rotor tight. My pedal was rock hard after that and the brakes were fantastic.

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post #26 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 04:29 PM
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@MAZ4ME , @realshelby

When you guys use the vacuum bleeders, how do you get a solid seal in the threads of the bleed valve?

Every time I've used a vacuum bleeder it continuously sucks tiny air bubbles from the threads of the barely loose bleed valve. Is there some "thread goo" you put on them to seal them up. Or does it not matter that it sucks air from the threads so long as vacuum is applied before unseating the bleed valve until after the bleed valve is re-seated? Might not allow air into the system, but sucks for monitoring the presence of air bubbles in the discharge.

I usually just default back to the pump it out with the master cylinder technique. Works OK, but requires 2 people. One to pull and hold the brake lever, and the other to release the pressure and re-seat the bleed valve. Then the lever guy resets and repeats.
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post #27 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 04:45 PM
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Some people use Teflon tape on the bleed nipple to seal them. Not sure how well that works.
I found a dab of dielectric grease will eventually seal up the thread, but it's a little messy.

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post #28 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
I have an air powered vacuum bleeder tool too. They work good.

But I WILL learn how to do the reverse bleeding and buy the tools to do it. Sometimes things are made too complicated, and by every measure it makes more sense to push clean fluid in from the bottom! Maybe I have been doing it wrong all along!


So the tools are a $2 30 to 60ml syringe at any farm fleet center and a 3" section of tubing that fits over the bleeder. Not expensive or hard to source all the tool you need.
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post #29 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 05:19 PM
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Yes, you can get some tiny air bubbles when using a vacuum bleeding tool on the average nipple ( caliper part......you filthy....). Larger bubbles are air in the system. With the vacuum system all you need to do is just crack the bleeder a bit, not nearly as much as when you do the manual method. As long as you are pulling a vacuum, no air is going to get back in the caliper.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #30 of 86 Old 03-14-2019, 06:01 PM
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Grimmer, I never have a problem with bubbles around the bleeder screws. The vacuum applied to the bleeder will be pulling on the fluid through the bleeder, and maybe some air from outside the threads--but the, that air is pulled. out with the fluid from inside the caliper. It's quick, easy, clean, and effective.
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