16T Front sprocket. 2018 DL650XT - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #1 of 12 Old 12-25-2018, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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16T Front sprocket. 2018 DL650XT

Went up one tooth from OEM 15T to a 16T front sprocket. RPMs dropped 250 in 6th gear.

Now turning 4800 at 70mph and 4050 at 60mph.
Remains to be seen if my mpg improves. Not necessarily a given as it takes higher HP to push the higher gearing.

Acceleration still feels OK, although physics says it's been reduced some.

So a little less buzzy, and less wear on the engine, tranny, and chain.

sprocketcenter.com has one that also has the rubber damper on it.

Removal was difficult. Put the bike in 6th, and had the wife sit on it and step on the rear brake. My 18V DeWalt electric lug nut gun took the nut off easily, but it was a bitch getting the sprocket off with the chain on it as there is very limited room between the sprocket shaft and the clutch housing. Same thing for installation. Just have to keep fiddling with it. The service manual says to take off the nut and just remove the sprocket with no mention of having to take off the chain, so go figure......
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 12:51 AM
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Ran a 16 on my 05 3/4 of the 122K on it. No mileage difference. Just liked the lower RPM on the freeway. The last 12K it had a 680 kit and the extra torque worked great with that gearing.
As for the removal problem, maybe your running the chain to tight(1 1/4- 1 1/2 min.). I just pulled the sprocket out as far as I could and the chain was able to be slipped off.
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nvr2old View Post
Ran a 16 on my 05 3/4 of the 122K on it. No mileage difference. Just liked the lower RPM on the freeway. The last 12K it had a 680 kit and the extra torque worked great with that gearing.
As for the removal problem, maybe your running the chain to tight(1 1/4- 1 1/2 min.). I just pulled the sprocket out as far as I could and the chain was able to be slipped off.
Thanks for your reply.
The axle was loosened and the wheel was pushed all the way forward. Plenty of chain slack, but not enough to pull the chain completely forward and off the front sprocket.
Besides, the chain is wider than the sprocket anyway, so not sure that would make any difference. Maybe, maybe not.
Only way I could see this being done easily despite the service manual, would be to break the chain. No thanks. :-)
250RPM reduction is nice, but not a whole lot. a 17T would obviously bring it down more, but the question is how much, also especially how much 1st gear acceleration I'm willing to lose.
I do off-road occasionally, so don't want to reduce 1st any more.

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 07:33 AM
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Actually it is quite easy to get the sprockets on and off, even with a 16t or 17t! Move the rear axle fully forward for maximum slack in chain. Loosen front sprocket nut. This allows the sprocket to wiggle a little. Before trying to get sprocket all the way off the shaft, start working the chain off the sprocket. Chain must work off TOWARD the engine! Having sprocket loose allows it to cock just a bit and the chain will come right off. Then simply pull sprocket off shaft. Same with installation. Don't fight it, you won't win! Simply wiggle things till the chain comes off toward engine. I put a 17t on the front with stock factory chain with no problem......

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Actually it is quite easy to get the sprockets on and off, even with a 16t or 17t! Move the rear axle fully forward for maximum slack in chain. Loosen front sprocket nut. This allows the sprocket to wiggle a little. Before trying to get sprocket all the way off the shaft, start working the chain off the sprocket. Chain must work off TOWARD the engine! Having sprocket loose allows it to cock just a bit and the chain will come right off. Then simply pull sprocket off shaft. Same with installation. Don't fight it, you won't win! Simply wiggle things till the chain comes off toward engine. I put a 17t on the front with stock factory chain with no problem......
Oh. So noooowwwwwwww you tell me! LOL! Thanks service manual.....NOT.

What kind of RPMs are you running at 60mph and 70mph? Any change in MPG? Acceleration noticeably/significantly reduced?

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 02:29 PM
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I don't remember exactly what the rpms are at 70, but I think it is right at 5100 rpm. Zero change in mpg. But it makes the transmission gear spacing a LOT more usable around town and in the mountains. Takeoff is the ONLY negative, and that really isn't so much a negative as just different. MY BMW takes off harder than the V Strom with a 16t.

The bike simply feels more relaxed with the 16t. I don't do single track mud so I don't need to be geared lower.
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'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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I don't remember exactly what the rpms are at 70, but I think it is right at 5100 rpm. Zero change in mpg. But it makes the transmission gear spacing a LOT more usable around town and in the mountains. Takeoff is the ONLY negative, and that really isn't so much a negative as just different. MY BMW takes off harder than the V Strom with a 16t.

The bike simply feels more relaxed with the 16t. I don't do single track mud so I don't need to be geared lower.
I thought you had a 17T on?
On my OEM 15T I turned 5050RPM at 70MPH. With my 16T I'm turning 4800RPM.
If you get a chance and do have the 17T on, I'd be curious to know the 60 and 70mph RPMs.

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post #8 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 04:04 PM
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I did have a 17t on. But not for long. It was a noticeable difference in takeoff, slipping the clutch to get going. Didn't help much on the highway. But I can say I tried it. Went back to the 16t.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-26-2018, 05:20 PM
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what about traction control and speed meter?

Does the 16t sprocket has any effect on it?

I had the 16t sprocket in my older 2010 wee, and my current 2018 is still completely stock. The difference in rpms with a 16t sprocket on the old wee it was around 600rpm not only 200...
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-27-2018, 09:15 AM
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On your 2010 Wee a 16t front sprocket would not have changed the speedometer reading at all. Those bikes read speed from a front wheel sensor. You did not lose 600 rpm....unless someone had installed a 14t front sprocket and you went to a 16t! The 2012+ DL 650 reads speed from a countershaft sensor. Changing to a 16t front sprocket on these bikes makes the speedometer almost dead on accurate with a gps!

Do the math. Going to a 16t from a 15t sprocket is just under 7% difference. At 5000 rpm 7% is 350 rpm. Exactly what I remember getting. Going from a 14t to a 16t is just over 14%. So at 5000 rpm you would drop around 710 rpm. There is a variable in this, the rear sprocket. That would change the effective outcomes.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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