Vibrations? - Page 8 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #71 of 76 Old 01-03-2019, 02:41 PM
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For those chasing the cause of vibrations I reseated and retorqued my motor mounts and posted it to the How-To maintenance forum. Motor Mount Reseat & ReTorque. This is for a Gen2 Wee but the procedure should be essentially the same for the Gen3. The procedure did make the bike less viby but the bike still has a shudder around 2-3K RPM and buzziness at 7-8K RPM so I am still looking for a cause. I think it either has to be an imbalance between the power of the F/R cylinders or perhaps an unbalanced clutch pack.

Here are my next steps I am going to try.
  1. Compression or Leak Down Test: The bike currently has 7500 miles and I bought it with 3K miles back in April. It was buzzy at 5200 RPM when I got it which turned out to be a loose lower throttle body boot clamp. I just did a valve adjust and the front exhausts were at the limit already at 7.5K miles which was a bit of a surprise. So I am thinking that maybe the leaking air damaged the front cylinder in some way such that the compression is different enough between the cylinders to cause vibration, hence the compression check.
  2. Fuel Pump Inlet Filter and HP Filter Bypass: The fuel pump inlet sock filter was plugged up with crap from a local gas station that I no longer use. Previously I rinsed the inlet sock filter with kerosene, reinstalled it and all was fine but the whining noise has returned so I need to check it again. I might replace the inlet sock with a new filter and do the external high pressure filter mod to fix this problem. I put this on the list because if the flow or pressure of the fuel pump is low it might cause motor imbalance (I don't think so but want to rule it out and I need to fix it anyway before the pump goes bad and leaves me stranded).
  3. Clean Injectors: This 4 year old bike had 3000 miles when I bought it used in April. That is an average of only 750miles/year and this is California and we ride year round so a bit odd. The seller sold the bike because he has some health issue that prevented him from riding. So maybe he only rode 2000, 800, 200, 0, miles in those four years so the bike was hardly used and sat around a lot in the last two years and the injectors got plugged up. I may pull them and ship them to R.C. Engineering for cleaning.
  4. Throttle Body Sync (primary plates, not idle air screw): My K7 Wee was really smooth after I synced the throttle body primary plates using light beams. That is last on my list because it is a bit of a pain to do and I'd like to think throttle bodies from Suzuki don't ship out-of-sync but I have my doubts.
  5. Inspect/Rebuild the clutch: This is a long shot but I might do it if I have to.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
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Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
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post #72 of 76 Old 01-03-2019, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossi396 View Post
Hi, Everyone:

I'll add my two cents to VTWEE's comments. Both of our bikes went back to the dealer for the vibe issue (at and around 5K) and both dealers eventually worked on the throttle bodies. My paperwork said they did a sync as well as checked the throttle valve position sensor (which was slightly out of limits and adjusted). I actually had the Suzuki rep.' on hand when I brought my bike in for the issue the second time and he rode the bike for quite a while. He seemed knowledgeable, was kind and his synopsis was that there was nothing wrong with the bike. I get vibes in the seat, pegs, tank, case, handlebars, basically everywhere right at the 5-5,200 range. Right about where you want to be on the highway cruising. Maybe I am missing something or expecting too much but I showed the rep.' review after review about how smooth this bike was: "No vibration at all in the pegs or bars until around 7K / 80MPH" (I think that one was from Cycle World). I know it's apples to oranges but I just sold a 2013 CB500F and that bike was unbelievably smooth at or above 80MPH on the highway and at a much higher RPM, obviously. I also explained to the rep.' how I didn't feel that much vibration in the demo bike and he mentioned break-in. He said that a year from now I'll be happy with the bike. He also said it could be high ethanol levels in the fuel and to try ethanol free fuel (have no idea, but I would think those stations aren't around every corner). The bike did seem marginally better after the sync / TPS adjustment. I'm not even sure where I want to go with it at this point but I'm not happy. If anyone is interested in a 600-mile 2017 (fresh 600-mile service) with hard bags and some farkles I'd be willing to let it go for what I have in it.

Glad VTWEE is feeling better and I believe he is headed for a Triumph Tiger....

Ross
I am thinking what you are feeling is pretty normal on the DL650... especially after hearing that you owned a CB500F.

I had a 2009 DL650 that I put about 65,000 miles on the bike. A friend of mine picked up a CB500X a few months before I sold my DL650 and I rode it around for a bit and that thing was SMOOTH!!! Smoother than my DL650 and a few Triumph Tiger 800s that I had ridden. I decided to take the plunge and I bought a used CB500X and installed the Rally Raid Stage 3 kit on the bike. Overall that bike was much smoother than my DL or just about any other bike (with the possible exception of my old VFR750) that I had owned or ridden. The only vibration I got on the CB500X was when I was north of 80mph and then I would get some buzziness in the handlebars but some of that may have been due to the TKC80s that I had on the bike.

I eventually sold the CB500X and picked up a new 2018 DL650XT. There is a spot between 5000 and 6000 RPM that things buzz a bit more but I seldom stay at that RPM when I am riding. I think I have more vibration on the pegs and passenger pegs on the 2018 than I did on my 2009 but I attribute that to the redesign of the subframe and new muffler position. Definitely not as smooth as my CB500X but in the same league as my 2009.
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post #73 of 76 Old 02-25-2019, 09:14 PM
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Australia 2018 model.
G'day.
Absolutely agree with chain slack comments - chain wear accelerated at around 1000 mile (1600km) mark from new, so kind of surprised me how it got to 45mm pretty quickly. Coincides with riding much harder after wear-in period too, changing gears harder, etc...
Vibrations were under load - almost a rattling drone sound type with the vibration. I even thought it was the muffler heat guard plate. Opening throttle in a too-big gear made it worse.
Had noticed jerkiness at low speed.
Adjusted chain at tight spot to 25mm (1 inch) and got a new bike back - instantly. Also thorough de-grease and wash / relube of original OEM tacky lubricant remaining on chain. I am a B1.1 Licenced Aircraft Engineer if that means something to anyone, so I use kero (Jet A-1) to clean the chain. Trust me - it is perfect, even normal commercial kerosine, then washed with high-pressure water.
Also noticed overall noise reflected back from cars or motorway walls had been almost eliminated completely.
Short story, get that tar-pit lube off, use a proper road-type lube like MOTUL road race factory line, and keep the chain line tension sweet.
Regards, Andy
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post #74 of 76 Old 06-11-2019, 09:51 AM
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This thread was an interesting read! I have a DL650 AK7 with similar vibrations. I'll check the chain tension tonight, I think it might be a bit loose. I'm also going to measure the chain length over 21 links, just to be sure it's still ok.

I might have a look at the TB boot clamps as well.
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post #75 of 76 Old 06-11-2019, 01:26 PM
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The chain length seems ok.

However, after testing a bit more, I found that the vibrations are there even if I stand still with the clutch pulled or with the gear in neutral. When riding, I usually notice the vibrations when over 4000 rpm. Really noticable at 5000 and really annoying at 6000 rpm.

I now found that if I stand still and rev the engine, I can actually feel the vibrations at 3000 rpm. Going past 6000 rpm just seems to increase the vibrations.

Also, I suddenly remembered that when I replaced the spark plugs last year, I also replaced one of the spark plug boots with a new (Suzuki OEM) one because it wouldn't sit snugly on the spark plug. This got me thinking. If one of the spark plugs is not firing as it should, could this be the cause of vibrations?

If so, how can I check that they all work? I know how to check spark plugs on one cylinder engines, but there are four spark plugs on my V-strom. Should I just remove one at a time and try starting it while checking for a spark? Is this doable? Also, they are not easily accessible (need to lift the tank, etc). Is there an easier way?
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post #76 of 76 Old 08-12-2019, 12:41 AM
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Good News, Bad News

I've been hunting the cause of vibration issues with my Gen2 DL650A since I bought it in April of last year. I found a loose (i.e. leaky) lower throttle body boot which was a major source of vibes but after fixing that, re-torquing motor-mounts and fiddling with the throttle bodies an annoying low RPM shudder and vibes at ~7K RPM remained. Before tackling other possible causes I tested the compression today and found that the F/R delta is 20 PSI (215 -vs- 235 PSI well within spec) whereas the delta spec is 28PSI. I don't think the 28 PSI is a technical limit but legal/warranty limit before Suzuki would do anything about it. My previous K7 Wee had ~200 PSI F/R (delta = 0) and was smooth as silk all the way to redline.

So the good news is that I think I found the source of my motor imbalance but now I am looking at top end work to resolve this. My concern is that the loose lower throttle body boot (probably came that way from the factory because according to the seller it was always viby) ran the front cylinder lean and fried a valve or valve seat. I didn't catch it till 4K miles. Ugh.
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Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc
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