Vibrations? - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650A - 2017+ DL650A - 2017 (L7) and later

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post #11 of 76 Old 07-18-2018, 10:48 AM
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I 've at 5k on my 2018 now, hope this helps.

I had, from 4800-5800 vibration it started just after I bought the bike, and got worse with the givi crashbars installed.

I followed the break-in procedure, and, after the 2nd oilchange (3500kms) I noticed it really started to smooth out, the engine is breaking in nice now ...loosening up, i think its a characteristic of the 90 twin and nothing to worry about.

I will say I've had two low speed drops in the dirt..(one on each side) it'll sound weird when I say it...but I swear it got better after that..like some things needed to settle into place and being gentle wasn't helping...I'm a bit of a dirt road adventure noob..so I still giggle like a kid when it gets squirreley.

Now with pulls to 10k rpm its sooo nice..
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post #12 of 76 Old 07-18-2018, 12:01 PM
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Rikmos,

That's good to hear. I have just over 300 miles on my L8 650XT, I just started to develop a buzz around 5200 RPM, sounds like a plastic, maybe the Givi Crash bars I put on, but they feel stout otherwise. I'm just chalking it up to the Engine/Bike break in at this point. Just picked up the Service Manuel, so at 600 Miles I'll do the proper Inspection, Oil Change, and Torque of applicable nuts and Bolts. Figure this machine just needs to work out the kinks....Ride Safe..SB
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post #13 of 76 Old 07-20-2018, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Bit of an update, spoke to the service manager at the dealership, he said could be tps or sync but Suzuki won’t warranty “adjustments”, his advice was with 800+miles the motor is not really broken in and still a bit tight so I should get some more miles and see what happens.
I asked him about the tos adjustment if the ‘17+ units had a dealer mode display like the gen 1’s he wasn’t sure.
More later I’m sure! For now more miles.

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post #14 of 76 Old 07-20-2018, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTWEE View Post
Bit of an update, spoke to the service manager at the dealership, he said could be tps or sync but Suzuki won’t warranty “adjustments”, his advice was with 800+miles the motor is not really broken in and still a bit tight so I should get some more miles and see what happens.
I asked him about the tos adjustment if the ‘17+ units had a dealer mode display like the gen 1’s he wasn’t sure.
More later I’m sure! For now more miles.

Typical dealer BS, what you are experiencing has NOTHING to do with a tight engine. My dealer would most certainly had adjusted the TPS and or TB synch under warranty, once again your dealer is being a prick. You may have to pony up and pay for it, but I do agree to just ride your bike for a good while and see what happens. These engines and bikes are overall pretty silky smooth, in particular the new 17/18 models.

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post #15 of 76 Old 07-20-2018, 10:21 PM
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Typical dealer BS, what you are experiencing has NOTHING to do with a tight engine. My dealer would most certainly had adjusted the TPS and or TB synch under warranty, once again your dealer is being a prick. You may have to pony up and pay for it, but I do agree to just ride your bike for a good while and see what happens. These engines and bikes are overall pretty silky smooth, in particular the new 17/18 models.
What he said almost 1300 miles on my 18 and smooth up till 7500 - that's as far as I rocked it so far. Seems to love 7000. And my favorite gear is 4th - I'll report back when I redline it.
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post #16 of 76 Old 07-21-2018, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Agreed, I seem to notice I’m in 4th a lot too!

So looking for a little assistance from the tribe. Does anyone know which terminals to jump for dealer mode on ‘17+ 650’s? And verify the location of the plug.
I’m going to see if there is a “line” on the display and where mine is sitting currently.

Thanks

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post #17 of 76 Old 07-21-2018, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTWEE View Post
My mistake for not including the rev range, I mostly notice it between 4500 and 6k, the intensity varies with engine load, worse under load. I have attempted to isolate engine from driveline by simply pulling in the clutch and letting the rpm drop when doing this the vibrations do stop. Chain slack is sitting just about 40mm (measured with bike on side stand). Reving the engine either with bike rolling and clutch in or in neutral the vibs appear in a similar manner.

One thing it did change yesterday was removing the bead seat pad, which helped the "discomfort"

Thanks for the input, I think getting in touch with the dealer and making them aware is the best, and hope they're helpful.


Dealers are notorious for not doing a good complete "Setup" of new bikes. This seems to be even more likely with Suzuki dealerships for some reason. The setup tech, usually the least experienced in the shop, should have not let the bike go out with vibes like you are indicating.

If the dealer gives to any resistance, find another dealer, or go directly to Suzuki's headquarters for resolution.

I'm betting it's poor TB sync causing the issue, or could be bad engine balancing at factory, either way, make them fix it..

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post #18 of 76 Old 07-21-2018, 03:15 PM
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Dealers are notorious for not doing a good complete "Setup" of new bikes. This seems to be even more likely with Suzuki dealerships for some reason. The setup tech, usually the least experienced in the shop, should have not let the bike go out with vibes like you are indicating.If the dealer gives to any resistance, find another dealer, or go directly to Suzuki's headquarters for resolution.
I think a bad setup would only impact peripheral items like handle bars, cowling, exhaust, etc. I don't recall off the top of my head but the post-ship setup is mostly add fluids and attach, tighten and adjust a few items after taking it out of its crate. Its not complicated which is why the rookie gets the job and those steps are unlikely to cause the vibrations described by the OP. Based on the symptoms it isn't suspension/wheel out of balance/alignment but something with the motor.

Quote:
I'm betting it's poor TB sync causing the issue, or could be bad engine balancing at factory, either way, make them fix it...
I agree and disagree with caveats.

OP is chasing his tail. The TPS and TB Sync would not cause engine vibrations at 5000RPM but would only cause idle and poor performance coming off idle. It is important to note that "TB Sync" is ambiguous and needs to be defined. For 2007 models and later the TB Sync that the service manual describes is adjusting the idle air screws only. This adjustment balances the air flow between cylinders at idle when the throttle (and thus throttle plates) are closed. It just makes the bike less lopey at idle and makes for a smoother transition from idle to open throttle. It has no effect on cylinder balance after throttle is cracked open even a little so cannot be the cause of vibrations at 5000RPM. As for the TPS, it has an adjustment range of about 5deg and, as far as I know, assuming the sensor is good if you put it at either extreme the bike would still run but would probably have bad off-idle, poor low/mid throttle response and perhaps poor gas mileage due to bad data going to the ECU. In any case, I don't think it could cause engine vibrations at 5000RPM.

For the pre-2007 models (in addition to the idle-air sync) there is a "TB Sync" procedure in the manual for adjusting the sync or balance of the throttle plates between cylinders by adjusting the linkage between the front/rear throttle body. The modern manual has no such procedure and says don't mess with the linkages as this is set at the factory, there is no field procedure to fix this and the service department can only replace the TB's if needed. If the throttle plates are imbalanced due to a bad factory set or someone adjusting the linkage screws this WILL cause vibrations at 5000RPM and across the whole range. This is because unbalanced throttle plates means one cylinder will be generating more power than the other. Because of this history, it has been suspected but not proven, that on occasion a mechanic has done a service on a newer bike but used his experience from the older models, i.e. he adjusted the linkage screws thus putting the motor out of balance. Suzuki needs to update their manuals and training and, most importantly stop calling the "idle air sync" a "throttle body sync" to avoid confusion.

Regarding the OPs problem, I think it is either a vacuum leak (which can put the cylinders out of balance) or imbalanced throttle bodies (from the factory or due to a mechanic's mistake). I would continue to press the issue with the dealership and at least get them to rule out a vacuum leak. If it is bad throttle bodies (which I think it is and discussed here in post #3) then it is unlikely that the OP will get any relief from the dealership. They won't troubleshoot that and won't fix it, unfortunately you are on your own. As discussed in post #3, my new-to-me 2014 which I bought with only 3700 miles is way to viby and I suspect out of balance TBs. The previous owner had the dealership do all the service so I suspect a mechanic messed with the linkages. Also, the bike is a bit lopey at idle and the rear idle air screw is noticeably raised above the level of the throttle body which is another clue.

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post #19 of 76 Old 08-10-2018, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Check engine light F1 came on last Thursday so dropped off at dealer last Saturday finally got a call Thursday nothings wrong with it. Cleared the code rode it said it was fine, blamed a “rattle” on my pannier racks, bullshit nothing changed when I put them on. To add insult to it the check engine light came back on 3 miles after leaving.
Service manager said they are going to order me a new O2 sensor. Apparently that was the first code.

I’ll let them replace the sensor then I’m going to find another dealer and escalate this.

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post #20 of 76 Old 08-10-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuball View Post
Rikmos,

That's good to hear. I have just over 300 miles on my L8 650XT, I just started to develop a buzz around 5200 RPM, sounds like a plastic, maybe the Givi Crash bars I put on, but they feel stout otherwise. I'm just chalking it up to the Engine/Bike break in at this point. Just picked up the Service Manuel, so at 600 Miles I'll do the proper Inspection, Oil Change, and Torque of applicable nuts and Bolts. Figure this machine just needs to work out the kinks....Ride Safe..SB
This defintely sounds like the Givi crash bars. Check the connection where the Givi crash bars connect in the middle. I put some silicone around connection points to act as a dampener, which has cured the vibrations at 5000k rpm

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